Wechsel der Wasserpumpe am Golf 4 Cabrio mit dem 2l AWG Motor

Wechsel der Wasserpumpe am Golf 4 Cabrio mit dem 2l AWG Motor

Hello my friends, welcome to our new video on the Golf 4 convertible I’ll show you today how to replace the water pump The car has the 2l AWG engine In this engine the water pump is driven by a drive belt instead of the timing belt Thus the timing belt can remain in the car for this repair We’ll start by disconnecting the battery The water pump is located down here on the right side of the engine A lot of parts have to be dismounted first, what’s already done here How to remove all these parts you may see in the video on replacing the timing belt For getting access to the water pump, the pump of the power steering has to be dismounted The pump remains connected to the hoses I’ll hang up the pump in the area For doing this I have to remove the hoses from their mounts The return line is fixed here to the radiator The bolt is here, you can just apply a 10 mm socket on a small ratchet from the top Let the engineer be accursed who placed the bolt of the second mount It’s possible to enter a ratchet wrench and turn it by 2 gears The pressure line has another mount here, all are M6 bolts having a 10 mm head These bolts are already loose from removing the belts, take them out now Take it out, too And remove the pivot bolt having a 16 mm head The pivot bolt is again very long I remove also this mount This will help you when removing the power steering pump That’s the mount With some problems you may pull the pivot bolt With a lot of wobbling you can remove the pump I hang it up in this area Next I work on the mount of the pump It’s fixed here and here This bolt is already for the alternator The bolts are already loose, I can remove the part The long bolt is down here, and the short bolt is here And the second long bolt is on top of the mount Unplug this connector from the alternator You must press this clamp together for unplugging You must remove the power cable, the nut is usually very tight The cable has a mount with a 8 mm bolt Put back the small nut and you won’t lose it On the main cable you must be careful, there might be also a washer Down here is a nut You’ll have some pleasure with it On top are 3 more nuts and one is on the side Slacken all of them The rest we’ll do with a small ratchet And the lower one with the limited access I hold already the alternator with the other hand, it’s already loose Lift it off the stud bolts I drain the cooling liquid at the thermostat These bolts are usually very tight The first drop will come soon I’ll pull the thermostat to drain the rest of the liquid The water flows out of the engine now The water pump has 4 bolts, one normal bolt and 3 special bolts with threads on both sides Slacken all The only rather normal bolt and these funny bolts The long bolts are down, you see this also at the shape of the housing Remove also this little bolt by pulling it Pull the water pump, some more liquid is flowing out This hose I have to replace too, it’s already leaking It has these special clamps Let’ try the other side, maybe we’ll have more success And the clamp is off And I can remove the hose and the clamps from the hose The new water pump, is only the inner part in the housing Thus, I must separate the old pump from the housing Slacken all the bolts Remove the 8 bolts The problem of this pump is this annex Otherwise it would be possible to remove the pump to the front side of the engine as in most compact cars Separate the pump You may use a screwdriver – and I have the pump and some drops of water Do you hear the strange noise The radial sealing ring is wedged in the bearing Thus the pump was already leaking, All traces of water and crystals of the green cooling liquid The gasket is made of aluminum with cured-on rubber Clean the surface It’s already relatively clean, this gasket was still functional In contrast to the radial sealing ring This is the hole for the special bolt, having no thread I mark the hole on the new pump, otherwise I’ll try the whole time to screw a bolt in Use such a copper scrapper for the sealing surface I have demonstrated this tool also in other videos Dry off the surface, it must be completely dry Use some acetone to degrease the sealing surface The same procedure for the new pump VW mounts the gasket without additional sealant Porsche uses Curil T and what’s good for the Porsche is also good for the VW Apply the Curil T, this has the advantage, that the gasket is glued to the pump now Press the gasket in the groove The surplus you distribute over the gasket Put the pump in place Screw some bolts in Now you see, why I marked the hole without thread Otherwise I would have tried at least 5 times to screw a bolt in Fasten the bolts from inside to out by hand All are fastened by hand now I fasten all the bolts once more with care, you see they are still turning One round with 5 Nm And the final torque is 10 Nm I couldn’t get the original hose anymore, thus I use racing parts Change also this O-ring in the pump housing and clean the surface Use again the copper scrapper for the sealing surface Like this, it’s fine The same procedure on the other side Push the hose on the water pump Also here we may use some Curil T Not too much and distribute it And also some Curil T to the O-ring Mount the water pump in position – like this Here was the only normal bolt Wobble the housing until the bolt enters This is why I used glue for the O-ring Here comes one of the strange bolts Fasten the bolts crosswise Do not be deceived by the large heads, the right torque for these bolts is 20 Nm Again, we work crosswise and all is fine Fasten the clamp when the hose is in on one side The other side we can do later, otherwise the hose goes off on this side again Fasten the clamp on the other side The thermostat enters here, but it will always drop Thus, I glue the thermostat with Curil T in its housing Coat also the gasket with glue Place the gasket in the groove and close all with the lid Close the lid, take care that nothing drops And the second bolt on the other side Fasten by hand Fasten the bolts with 10 Nm As next part comes the console for the power steering pump I mount it for the moment loose, the bar to the other side is still missing This way we have more freedom I install the mount for the tensioner of the pump Here it goes on the stud bolt and here are 2 M8 bolts Also this we let loose, the pump will enter easier Fasten the bolts of the console with 20 Nm This part remains loose Hang the pump in the mount Now you see why its loose, otherwise you won’t be able to mount the pump Insert the bolt of the tensioner When the holes are aligned you may insert this bolt Next comes the pivot bolt When the bolt is deep enough in, that it’s in its thread you may use the ratchet The pump we let movable for the moment, but we can fasten the console yet These 2 bolts here The torque for these bolts is 20 Nm When the power steering pump is so far in position I may try to mount the small bolt of the return line This one is relatively easy I can insert it with the hand from the top Why it wasn’t possible to mount this bolt bottom up With a lot of passion I managed to insert the bolt and to set the wrench on the head Now I must find the thread by moving the wrench tooth by tooth With a lot of patience you can fasten the bolt Fasten the other side And the final mount here Luckily the access here is much easier Fasten it After all hoses are in, we can fill in the cooling liquid When the reservoir is full You knead the large hoses And you hear the air bubbles After the power steering pump I can mount the alternator I mount it together with the console Just put it on its 4 stud bolts And secure it by one nut to prevent it dropping to the pits This one is still accessible, but the last one will be complicate The fourth nut under the alternator is inaccessible now I fasten the other nuts a little That’s fine for the moment, let’s mount the belt The additional work for the water pump is practically done Now the belts, and the air intake system have to be installed These steps are shown in the video on the timing belt Fasten the adjustment and the pivot bolt Install the last nut of the console Don’t miss the bolt between the alternator mount and the power steering pump Fasten the nuts of the console with 20 Nm And the connection bolt between alternator and pump gets 20 Nm Install the cables of the alternator The main cable comes here The little nut is on the cable mount For plugging the connector you must press the clamp together And it’s in Fasten the nut of the main power cable with 20 Nm Fasten the M6 nut of the cable mount with care The alternator is installed now All is perfect After the first run, some liquid is missing, refill it For bleeding the cooling system faster, I’ll run the engine with open reservoir Refill what’s missing Close the lid Let the engine run, observe the temperature, and it the cooling works well until the fans switch on and off again And check the cooling liquid again When the engine is cool again, you fill the liquid on This procedure you repeat once or twice Check the next morning and refill it At this level it should remain The repair of the water pump is done Bye, bye, see you in the next video

3 Replies to “Wechsel der Wasserpumpe am Golf 4 Cabrio mit dem 2l AWG Motor”

  1. Die M6 Schrauben reissen sehr oft ab. Ich habe damals eine Pumpe mit Gehäuse gekauft das war nicht so wesentlich teurer. Gutes Video Daumen hoch.

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