[Tutorial simples] Como fazer motor Stirling caseiro passo a passo – As do Stirling engine

[Tutorial simples] Como fazer motor Stirling caseiro passo a passo – As do Stirling engine

In the cylinder it will be in direct contact with the flame This is the hot part and this is the cold part. I remember that the air should be totally confined within this engine, where the engine working fluid, is the internal air itself, where there can be no air leaks in the working piston and, in the orifice of the head, where the piston rod slides and friction is one of the main factors responsible for the non-functioning of the engine in addition this engine does not require valves for its operation where the internal air works with a small volume change and relatively low pressures where there is no danger of explosions I do not recommend testing the engine over the gas stove flame because it may melt the bottom of the cylinder Due to the fragility of the can, as happened with this cylinder, I put the engine in the fork Use alcohol fuel by car, as the reason for this lamp the video of the manufacture of this lamp, can be visualized in my channel, (like making a lamp) now added water to the cooling system So that the motor does not overheat, and has the temperature difference between the cold end and hot end of the cylinder and let’s start the game At 978 rpm you may find that you need too much force to stop it and now we will run the engine with generator, ejecting the cassette, from a cassette 10 leds Disconnecting generator from other the engine acceleration was higher Because there was no more mechanical power consumption of the engine by the generator These two cans will be the with this retro projector pen I will find the center of the head and here we will make the hole record with stylet is based on this cap a little more than 5 inches tall, equal to 50 millimeters in height Being the height or the total length of the can of six centimeters We will enlarge the head More or less a 10 millimeter or 1 centimeter with a nail, we will make the initial marking to make the hole We use a 1.5 mm drill bit A two-millimeter bicycle wheel spoke and with the slightly conical tip I will force the passage of this radius of 2 millimeters, in this hole of 1,5 millimeters with the aid of a hammer Repair embossed edge From the hole in which This head will have greater contact with the shifting piston rod avoiding premature wear This is an aluminum bathroom stall bar In which it is slightly more than 3 millimeters thick Being the first marking 55mm away to make the fold or equivalent to 5 centimeters and a half and this second marking where it will be cut at a distance of almost 13 centimeters and here we will do the fold the first marking from left to right at 1 centimeter and the second at 6 centimeters this will be the part attached to the head to assert a working piston cylinder We will make the three markings with nail on the bottom is 42mm away from left to right we will make 3 holes, 2.5 mm only these 2 holes will be made with a 3 mm drill bit and this other will continue to be 2.5 millimeters A third hole was required, for two head postings correcting the drilling 1 hole is made to one centimeter 10mm another at 2 centimeters and just under two and a half and the last at 6 centimeters and this support for the working piston, must be affixed 1.5 centimeter of the base until that time carried out the marking, we will make two Now I will make two more holes the two hoses that interconnect the two cylinders Finally, a 7mm drill bit To make a working piston cylinder we will use this cap which is 63 millimeters in diameter can be a 57mm, but I recommend this, I’ll cut her three inches high With an iron cutting blade, I will make the cut It’s cut The ends should be removed so as not to damage the bladder A hole of three millimeters previously fixed the cylinder in the holder, the hole that will be made in the cylinder, will be approximately 2 centimeters of this base the same on this other side closest to the bottom Install hose and make a measurement Where will the other hole be made in the head to then pass hose fit into the bottom of this head first I fit this hose into this hole, with the outlet down the head Two hoses already installed with the side outlets with this piece of motorcycle camera I remember that strip Circular Then sealing the work cylinder and screw this working cylinder cut close to the cylinder with a small eyelash and move to place high temperature silicone It’s past glue around as well as in the wire cylinder Both on the outside and inside, to ensure a perfect seal I’m going to report this motorcycle camera. two strips, one strip 1.5 centimeters wide and the other 2 centimeters wide I’ll put this one inch on the working cylinder This cover has a hole, I’m going to close it with a screw For those who do not have the air leak and when necessary, such as a pressure relief bolt With these two packages I will make a choice of work, the outer diameter is 51mm, but it may be the covers of 53mm, already the cover of the inside of the working piston is 40 millimeters in diameter I’ll make a marking around, to make the cut With preferences use a bladder number 10 or the can also be a number 8 in this medium size and then makes a cut a balloon cut, at about this height I reuse this thread that is the end of the crankshaft’s leftover, cut back to lightning bolt door this will be the cylinder of the working piston, 53 mm in diameter I use that motorcycle camera cut rubber, to seal Then this balloon now this cap of yogurt pot which is 40 mm in diameter and finally the other already cut nut of 2mm bike radius Is ready I also recommend adding talc of baby both inside the balloon and outside of this future working piston so that the durability of the bladder be prolonged and now there will have to be a regulation so that the balloon has neither slack nor stretched I will wrap the elastic of motorcycle cameras, around the cylinder to seal I will fit the 2nd head on the first and that second head is engaged 1 centimeter or 10 millimeters due to a miscalculation, I have re-drilled a new hole below this original 1 centimeter below so as not to interfere with the upper crankcase engagement of the crankshaft To make the piston test cold, or known as working piston we obstruct these two air intakes which are to be engaged in the cylinder and when pulling working piston, it should not inflate with art this is the result of a perfect seal This 350ml can can be used as a cylinder where the cut will be made just below that fold use this cap as a support base to make the cut with stylet Where the length of the cylinder is 10.5 centimeters equal to 105 mm in length Check the text below the link to the construction of this type piston shifter, in steel wool with the details to be observed or click the sides, to have access to the video of the construction of this piston I’m doing a demonstration where this piston is practically transparent When pulling the piston, the weight of the cylinder should be sufficient to stay on top of the hands this represents little friction At the same time, however, there must be no gap between the wool and the cylinder To force the passage of air through the steel wool at 4.5 centimeters We will make the circumferential cut a previous marking a definitive marking with a nail, on top of that stripe Initially I will make a hole with a 1.5 mm drill bit I’ll make a 2 millimeter drill bit the 3mm drill bit with the drill we will wear the can lid Let’s sanding, the burrs of the can In this process do not forget to wear safety goggles. Let’s stick the can of peach high temperature silicone glue is past silicone and allowed to dry as glue is previously dry, we can pass glue around, to fix the two sides and ready to dry for another two hours then engaging the displacer cylinder touch the piston at the bottom of the cylinder without fitting the head, only so that it is possible to see where we should cut the piston rod so I made a marking on the shank of the displacing piston, 1 centimeter in height at this point it will be done the cut of this bicycle beam to cut the shank of this shifting piston these ends must be affixed in the dome and for that other end to slide inside the head, do not be damaged After cutting the shifting piston rod this end shall be sanded so that it does not damage the head and now it’s already sanded can be done with a file, or upon a stone in this light wire connector, one side made a hole of 2 mm and another one a hole of 3 mm Notice that there is no friction We’ll use this can to make the crankshaft support with this stone I will sanding and removing the bottom already sanded on the stone, only remove I will make a previous marking on the circumference of the can being this marking more or less to 3 centimeters of height the circumference of the can has a total length of 208 millimeters being half in 104 millimeters so the exact point encounter for the fixing of the crankshaft one hole on each side with a 2 mm drill bit passed stiletto around this coat of arms let’s remove the lid I made a circle around this cap the same on that back of the can the video that explains the confection of this crankshaft with a two-millimeter bicycle radius is in the video description below with the link in which he explains a practical and easy way to do the alignment and the desired measurement first fit the long side of the crankshaft, from the inside one of the first precautions to be observed is the friction of the crankshaft, should not have any friction, and before stopping he should stay in this come and go, before stopping altogether this 5 cent coin will be used as a bushing for the crankshaft made the hole with a 1.5 mm drill and now with 2 mm notice she has little time but for the crankshaft is not recommended, I recommend enlarging the hole so that they have more slack, since the crankshaft, has a small twist and this can produce a friction in the bushing These breaks are good it’s not too much and has a little slack, just because the crankshaft fires sideways due to its small diameter Past glue on each end of the coin, let’s paste the structure let dry for 2 hours as the glue is almost dry I will go over the rest of the glue in that coin so that it does not have the game, in the lateral sense after the dry glue I’m going to install this light wire connector, cut in half On the opposite side where the steering wheel is fixed, I will place this other light wire connector, previously fixed for better handling of motor construction the third bolt is attached to the I’m going to install the crankshaft holder can being that can was also fitted almost 1 centimeter inside the head after engaging the upper can I will install the displacement piston, attach this light wire connector earlier on this radius for ease of handling in which on this side the hole is 2 millimeters and on this other side is 3 millimeters insert this light wire connector and fit into this shifting piston rod on the shifting piston I’ll loose the other ray. and now complete withdrawal of this screw before closing the engine recommended only use grease as a lubricant on the piston rod to prevent premature head wear I advise using liquid lubricants and also pass grease on the top of the piston rod shifter with that other radius of 2 mm of bicycle, I will make the connecting rod of the displacement piston this first curve will have to be 100% at 90 degrees now we’ll make another curve in 45 ° perfectly aligned I will make a new fold in the opposite direction the last fold is made notice that it is perfectly aligned but the main thing is that this end is straight which is 90 degrees in that direction I make a box the connecting rod is installed we will make the marking for the cut mark at the radius at half the height of the connector and not forgetting, that the piston must be against the cylinder head for this measurement with the beautiful cut and I will install in the crankshaft How can you repair the alignment of the underside of the connecting rod was not aligned with the crankshaft then it is necessary to correct this alignment with pliers twisting a little and now it’s fixed other care for the perfect functioning of the engine the weight of the piston should be sufficient to pull the crankshaft down Piston displacement weight in steel wool this shows low friction if problems occur with this connecting rod, slide left or right may install, this light wire connector half so it does not escape or slip before setting up the engine, I will heat the cylinder to burn the varnish, which is the inner protection of the aluminum can until it does not produce smoke notice that the cylinder has become dark on the bottom I’m going to fit the cylinder head make sure that for the heads, do not lean to the right or to the left or backward or forward preventing the displacing piston from having a large drag on the cylinder note that on this side the cylinder is exactly below, this writing of 350 ml as well as the other side this means that the cylinder is aligned with the cylinder head if cut straight no need to fit more than 0.5 centimeters, the cylinder head there is also no need to pass glue around the cylinder and the cylinder head the construction of this steering wheel can be checked in the text below this video where there is a link how to make the steering wheel where it is built with 4cds disconnect this connector and I’m going to install the steering wheel and the tightening on the shaft it’s installed and when turning the steering wheel before stopping and should stay in this back and forth This represents little friction with displacement piston connected to the shaft now I will test the seal with a cylinder fitted to the head when pulling the working piston, it practically does not inflate with air because the fence is practically perfect and this screw on the lower end of the piston is to facilitate the adjustment of the piston where I have a purposive escape I am demonstrating this crankshaft, where this fold has 90 degrees lag is in relation to the working piston bending where the displacing piston works a quarter turn in advance, in relation to to the working piston if this crank bending is down this fold is folded to the left the engine will turn left Case the fold is made to the right the engine will rotate from the right I’ll post these pliers to reattach the pliers and make new fold this inclination of the fold, defined the stroke that the piston if this furnace slope by 90 degrees, the stroke will be greater, the more that slope has been aligned the lower the course I cut the tip of the crankshaft with pliers to reduce the length install half connector use this light wire connector, where this side has a 2 millimeter hole, and that other side a 3 millimeter hole, so that it has a lateral play I put another connector, which has its holes the other connector, so that it does not escape increase the length of the connecting rod this piston must be down and well aligned vertically, without tilting to the right or left I’ll make the cut at this point, to reduce the length now the connecting rod is cut, just post I cut in 5.5 centimeters plus 6 centimeter wide on the opposite side I cut a hole, slightly larger than a pet bottle cap and this hole already demonstrated at the beginning of the video to engage the cylinder and with this leftover, I will make an extension of the furnace, so that I may remove the water from the heat This bending is necessary so that it is possible to fit the oven and if this wedge between the cooling system can and the working piston holder to prevent the carrier from moving, when the engine is running

100 Replies to “[Tutorial simples] Como fazer motor Stirling caseiro passo a passo – As do Stirling engine”

  1. Muito bom o tutorial e seu trabalho também é excelente, Mas tenho uma dúvida, estou fazendo um motor e usei lata de spray,e antes de monta lo eu não pus fogo embaixo dele,isso vai influenciar no funcionamento do motor?

  2. Olá Leandro, segui suas indicações e consegui construir e fazer o motor funcionar
    Muito obrigado pela aula.

  3. Logré terminar mi motor y el funcionamiento es óptimo. Pero al momento de instalar el generador la velocidad del motor no es la suficiente como para hacer alumbrar un led.

  4. gosto muito dos teus videos dos motores muito bem explicado parabens continua com o
    bom trabalho,daki de portugal

  5. Preciso fazer um trabalho para o colégio, que é um carrinho movido a esse motor mostrado no vídeo. É possível??

  6. amigo pode faser pergunda voce nao tem que faser nao amigo tava vendo este video que merda em cara do manual do mundo ja feis iesto

  7. foi voce que enssinou cara do manual do mundo tenho canal mais ja apostei video nao da nada nao eu gosto de ver si fosi eu tivar fasendo este motor ia faser com material nobre de aluminio feito ne meu mine torno tenho tantos projeto meu nem aposto youtube nao compensa nao poriso nao ponho nada de video acho perca tempo na vida eu fasso motor ate da minha moto era bom algem faser um motor deste numa moto mais bem porfisional ai sim da

  8. Boa tarde…..fiz um motor igualzinho vc explicou, porém gostaria de aumentar a rotação, pois o meu não está com uma velocidade boa ! Como faço pra resolver isso?

  9. Olá Leandro gostaria de saber qual material você me endica para construir esses motores seria latas de cerveja ou latas de spray pois quero o motor fique ligado muito tempo

  10. Provavelmente não vai ver isso, mas não custa tentar. Teria outra coisa que poderia substitui os conectores de fio de luz? Pois moro numa "cidade" muito pequena e não tem os conectores para vender.

  11. Gracias por haber subido este video, me gustó mucho la forma como explicaste cada paso de su construcción, pude hacer uno para presentarlo en el colegio, saludos desde Colombia sigue asi.

  12. Ahh magaive miserável… vou liga na casa da moeda e denunciar vc furando as moedas de 5 centavo kkkkk vou fazer essa engenhoca também kkkkk

  13. se eu inverter o ciclo de stirling, isto é, eu conecto um motor ao eixo de rotação, será possível que ele funcione como um refrigerador. O que devo considerar? ajuda por favor, é para um projeto universitário.

  14. Olá bom trabalho. Eu fiz o trabalho como o vídeo diz, mas não funciona para mim, o ar não consegue inflar o balão, eu verifiquei bem e tudo está correto, me ajude

  15. foolish installation of solar panels by using lot of farmers gold lands. The height of solar panel from ground should be more than 15 meters, so that below land can be use for farming, for maintenance quarters, parking vehicles, other NGO shelters , etc…

  16. Qual tipo de energia poderemos dar a esse motor, quando no seu papel de gerador de energia? Energia mecânica? hidráulica?

  17. Un crack hermano !! muy buen invento de entre muchos !! te hago una consulta.. Usando un motor de dinamo cuantos volts llega a pasar???? saludos de Argentina!

  18. Por favor, começa a ensinar que esse motor é extremamente tóxico e perigoso para a saúde! Verniz e tinta de lata de alumínio sendo queimada?

  19. I used 300ml can (all of them) and it is working but it is running slow. What should I do to increase its speed?
    https://prntscr.com/pi7ig6 – my stirling engine

  20. I just wanted to say thank you for these excellent instructions – using this video as my guide, I was able to construct my own Stirling engine based upon your design (with a few minor differences, such as the flywheel) …


    Thanks again!

  21. Como vc calcularia a eficiência desse motor? Fiz um igual ao do manual do mundo e tenho tentado calcular mas da valores bem pequenos do tipo 0,14% kk, não sei qual o melhor método. Ótimo vídeo, btw, ficou incrível o motor.

  22. Como faço um motor discreto pra por atrás de um relógio? A criança estará com o relógio na barriga, daí fazer o ponteiro ficar acelerado além do normal.

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