Neptune Q6 R11 Burn and Wax Motor Information

Neptune Q6 R11 Burn and Wax Motor Information


Hey, guys. This is Jeff. How are you doing?
Probably not too good if you are here on my Neptune repair page. My goal is to keep you,
or more important, your spouse out of the laundromat. Just so you know, I’ve been offering
these Q6 R11 repair kits and wax motors over the last 5 years.
Okay, let’s talk about which Neptunes are affected by the faulty wax motor. Well, it
turns out, all Neptune’s with a timer knob are affected and that includes: the MAH3000,
MAH4000, the MAH5500A and the 2000 stackers. We have to note that on some of the 2000 stackers,
they will have the correct wax motors installed. They had shipped with the proper wax motors.
So…and the way to know the difference is the new design has the black actuator tip
and the old design has the brown colored tip. Okay, let’s talk about the symptoms. Well,
the major symptom is the door lock light does not come on when it should be in the high
speed spin cycle and because of that, the clothes are soaking wet when the cycle is
finished. Now, to verify that you have experienced a
Q6 R11 failure, you have to look at the control board and see if the R11 resistor is burnt.
Now, we have two different machines. We have the stand alone and we have the stacker. Let’s look at the stand alone first.
Number 1: you want to unplug the machine for safety.
Number 2: you have to remove the three Philips screws on the top edge of the control console
and Number 3: you want to push the console bottom
away from you as you pull the top of it towards you and that will cause it to pivot back and
expose the control board on the back plate of the machine. Before you remove the board,
you will want to label all of your wires and connectors for reinstalling. Okay, let’s talk about the stacker.
You want to unplug the machine for safety on that one as well.
Number 2: you want to remove the two screws on the top corners. Now, this is on the dryer
section. On the stackers, your control board is located up on the right corner on the dryer
side. So, you have to remove two screws on the top corners and pull the door frame towards
you. You need to open the door and remove the door frame.
Number 4: you want to unscrew the two hold down brackets on both sides.
Number 5: you unscrew the two screws on the top right side of the panel…that’s the top
panel…because those are what mount the control board to the bracket.
Number 6: you want to prop the top panel up, that should expose your board and
Number 7: Again, you want to label all your wires and connectors for reinstalling. You
don’t want to mix up any of the wires. Now, here is a photo of the stand alone washer
with the board mounted to the back panel. And here is the control board we can inspect
to see if the R11 is burnt and you see an arrow pointing to where the R11 is. It is
located just below the left mounting slot and if the R11 is burnt, then you need to
order the Q6 R11 repair kit now. Next, we’ll talk about bypass instructions.
This will allow you to use your machine so the clothes don’t pile up while waiting for
your kit to arrive. Number 1: You want to clip the Q6 Triac and
the R11 resistor off the board because they are bad and we don’t want to cause more damage
to the board. Number 2: You want to disassemble the machine
to expose the door latch assembly and there are photos on this site that you can go to
to see how to do that. Number 3: We want to jamb cardboard in the
gap to press the small button on a micro switch and I’ll show you a photo on the next slide.
Number 4: We want to reassemble the machine. Number 5: We want to make sure that kids are
kept away from the machine since the door will not be locked and it could be a safety
issue. You don’t want to open that door up when it’s in high speed spin.
Number 6: You want to test the machine. So, note the machine will keep tumbling at the
end of the wash cycle because it believes the door is still locked so don’t wash clothes
unattended. You will have to manually turn off the machine.
Here is that photo of the door latch assembly. You see the blue arrow pointing at the gap.
What happens is that wax motor pushes that mechanism over by 1/4 inch, which pushes that
little button on the micro switch. So, if we shove cardboard in there, we can force
that little button in on your micro switch. Now, notice this wax motor has the black tip,
so it’s the new style. If it had a brown color, then you would have to replace it because
that’s the faulty one. Miscellaneous Info! After replacing the Q6
and R11, the timer may not function properly. I estimate 5 out of 50 boards could have this
issue. You will need my Stage 2 repair kit. Contact me.
If the water valves do not work when you test the machine, then your machine control board
will need to be replaced. Contact me. Does your Neptune sound like a jet taking
off when ramping up during the spin cycle? If so, contact me, I can help you land that
airplane. Lastly, if you have any questions at all,
contact me. Let’s wrap it up. This Q6 R11 repair you will
save you around $400 plus the hassle of scheduling a service call. Tell all of your friends and
family that have Neptune’s because they can proactively replace the wax motor before
it fails and prevent the Q6 R11 failure. I can get you any Neptune parts. I offer all
major appliance parts, too. I look forward to serving you! Thank you.

3 Replies to “Neptune Q6 R11 Burn and Wax Motor Information”

  1. How do I remove the spinner shaft from the tub of a Neptune stacker 2000..  It looks like it's held on by big black Steele rivets or pins, that are held from the inside from under the 3 fins inside the tub, HELP, please…

  2. hi, i just got this maytag neptune MAH8700AWW  ran the 1st load it looked like all cycles ran fine it just wont open. ive tried everything. i need to know if i can manually open the door, and what can i do to fix this

  3. Thanks for the video — in particular, the way to temporarily bypass the lock is so simple yet I didn't see it described elsewhere while researching this problem.
    Question, though: I got someone else to do a control board repair and I think they didn't succeed — the washer behaves the same. But I don't know because it could also have a locking failure unrelated to the control board. Before I buy your kit and try the repair myself, how can I verify that the board really is still faulty? Something I could check with a multimeter maybe, or ?? Or can I only try to rule out other causes of failure to lock?
    (The behavior is just "no lock, so no spin": despite it having been used, in ignorance, in its half-working condition, it doesn't have any other symptoms of "extra" board damage, like water flow or timer, that iirc you mention elsewhere as cases when your "stage 2" kit is needed or when the board would be irreparable.)

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *