LG Dryer Repair – How to Replace the Drive Motor (LG Part # 4681EL1008A)

LG Dryer Repair – How to Replace the Drive Motor (LG Part # 4681EL1008A)

Hi, it’s Steve. Today, we’d like to show you how to change
the drive motor on your dryer. Drive motor is used to power the blower as
well as turn the tumbler. It’s a really easy job to change, and let
me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair, since we will be working
near some electrical circuits, first thing we need to do is to disconnect power to the
dryer. Either unplug it or locate the electrical
panel, turn off the appropriate breaker or remove the appropriate fuses. Once we’ve done that, we’ll need to pull the
dryer, just slightly forward, so that we can access screws that are just underneath the
main top at the back. Now, the screws on the top are a Philips type
screw. We will do two there on the outside corner
and one in the center. These screws are located in underneath the
lip, they’re not the ones that are easily visible, so reaching underneath and it would
be the screws in behind that. Slide the main top back, just about a half
an inch, that will disengage some slots that grab some rubber or plastic studs. Once we’ve disengaged those, we can set that
main top aside. Now next, we’ll need to remove the control
panel to access screws that secure the top of that front panel in place. Now, to do that, there are two screws that
go through a support bracket into that control panel, and they have a slightly different
thread than most of the rest of the screws, so we’ll need to keep those separate. Begin by removing those two screws, and set
those aside and keep them separate, and then we’ll lift up on the top of that control panel
so that we can unhinge it from that metal support bracket. Now, with the two screws removed, let’s secure
that control panel through the support bracket. Our next step, before we can actually lift
that control panel out, just remove at least these two large harness connectors that go
into the control board. Note that there’s a little tab between the
two wires on each of those connectors. If we depress that tab and grip the connector
itself, we should be able to wiggle those off of the board. It’s a connector with a little hook on. Do that for both, and try to pull just on
the connector when you’re pulling those off the board. You probably need two hands to do that. Put those out of the way, you can probably
reach the two connectors below that. Again, there are locking tabs that we’ll need
to depress. Just squeeze them, release and then pull the
wire harness off. Now, the two that are more towards the center
on that border, a little more difficult to do that, but there’ll be room once we pull
the control panel forward to do that. You may wish to unhook the harness from the
harness retainer clip on the top of that bulkhead, and have that out of the way. Now next, we’ll need to lift up on the top
lip of that control panel, so that we can disengage these little short tabs across the
top. We’re going to lift up enough that we clear
that metal bracket, pull it forward at the same time. Then we can pivot it, tilt it towards you
while lifting it away from the top of the front panel and that will give us enough leeway
that we can then remove these two remaining wire harness connectors. Again, there will be a locking tab on the
side of them, just depress the tab and release the connectors. We can now take that control panel and set
that aside. Now, with the control panel out of the way,
our next step, you need to open up the dryer door. We will want to remove these two screws that
sit just below the lint filter housing. These screws are a machine-type thread. Again, we’ll need to keep those separated,
and then we’ll remove the four screws that are located across the top of the front panel. Just support that panel as you remove the
last screw, and we’ll just tilt it forward enough that you can access a wire harness
that attaches right at the top of the door. You can grasp that connector and unplug it,
and we can tilt that panel far enough forward and we can lift it off two metal tabs that
are attached to the base. We’ll set that assembly aside. Now, our next step will be to remove the front
bulkhead. Before we do that, we’re going to disconnect
the wire harness that goes to the light bulb, if your model has one on it. You just take note of the location of the
gray and black wires as to which one is towards the front, then remove the screw each in those
four corner tabs. Down at the bottom, a little note, any harness
that goes down to a connector, we’ll depress the locking tab on that connector, and disconnect
the harness. We should then be able to lift up slightly
on that bulkhead and then tilt it over on the bottom and pull it out from behind this
crossmember at the top. Now, you may need to support the weight of
the tumbler as you tilt through it at the bottom, then we’ll set that assembly aside. Now next, we’ll need to take the tumbler out,
and it may be easier to remove this support piece across the top rather than trying to
pull that down below it. There are two screws on the front and two
more at the top. We will note that the two screws may be different
lengths, typically the shorter ones go through the front. Just lift up on it slightly to disengage a
hook on either side and then we can set that aside. Now, our next step will be to reach in underneath
the main drum and disconnect the belt from the idler. Reach our right hand in from the center, our
idler is located just at the very back of the motor or a left hand in on the opposite
side, just grasp the idler wheel, pull it towards the left to release the tension on
the belt, you can then roll the belt off of the motor pulley and the idler pulley until
it’s loose. Then we’ll lift that drum off the rear drum
rollers, and pull it out through the front of the cab, and then we can set that aside. Now, with the drum out of the way, our next
step is going to be to remove the wire harness connector to the motor. There are two locking tabs, one on top and
one on the bottom. Just simply squeeze those, and grasp that
connector, and pull it away from the motor, just tuck that out of the way. Now our next, while we have the motor still
in its cradle mount, we’re going to remove the nut that secures the blower wheel to the
front of that motor. It’s a 13-millimeter nut on the front of the
blower wheel, just the front shaft of the motor, and then at the rear of the motor shaft
here, there is one flat side that an 11-millimeter wrench will slide over. Just lock that wrench so that it sits flush
on the base. Now, it’s a left-hand thread on the blower
wheel nut. We’re going to turn it clockwise from the
front. We’re going to ratchet. Once we’ve loosened that nut, we just remove
it. Beneath that nut, there is a lock washer. Remove that. There is a large flat washer that is actually
part of the blower wheel but it may come loose so make sure that you keep track of that because
we will need to reuse it. Now, with the blower wheel loosened, we should
be able to pull the motor from behind that blower housing and still need the blower wheel
inside of it. If you drop that washer or if you have difficulty
putting the motor back into the blower wheel, you can take the two screws off of the front
cover of that blower housing and access it. Next, we’ll remove two spring clamps that
secure that motor to the motor mount. One side has a raised edge, we’re simply going
to press down on that until it releases. There’s a slot on both sides of that clamp
that fit onto a little hook on the actual motor mount. Same on the front, is to press that spring. If you have difficulty doing that with your
hands, you can also take a flat blade screwdriver and fit it down into that little hook and
just pry it out. We’ll take the screwdriver, put down into
this hook and pried it. You may find that that’s easier, you can use
your hands on that front one. Let’s just set those aside. Now, we should be able to lift that motor
off of that motor mount. If the blower wheel has come loose from the
front, you should be able to pull it straight at the back. If you’re having difficulty, you may want
to take that cover off and then just remove the blower wheel. Just pop these two screws out, you know that
they’re very short, so keep them separate. Lift that out of a little slot on the bottom. Just lay it aside. You may need to rock that lower wheel side
to side to loosen it on that motor shaft. You’re going to actually pull it right up
to the front and then install it later on the new motor. That will allow us to — Just lift that motor
up and we can pull that out of that opening and then we can set it aside. I’ll give you a view of how the blower wheel
will attach to the front of that motor shaft. Just simply slide over the shaft. This is around the bushing. There is a large two-sided washer that will
fit into that groove on the blower wheel, but there is also one flat side on that shaft
that we need to line up. Once you have the washer lined up, rotate
the lower wheel, the washer drops in and then we’d be able to put our lock washer nut on
top of that. We’ll take our motor. I’m going to fit it through the opening on
the back of the housing. We’re going to rest those two rubber mounts
inside of that metal motor mount until it’s stable and laying flat. We’ll take our mounting clamps, we’ll hook
one side and keep it straight on top of the rubber mount. Now, to do the rear one, again, we’re just
going to clip that short edge over the inside hook, straight across the rubber bushing and
clip in the opposite end. Now, we’ll slide the blower wheel onto the
front of the shaft. We’ll take our flat-sided washer with the
one flat edge on it. Line that up on the motor shaft first and
then just hold that shaft from turning. Locate the blower wheel so that it wil slide
into the inset on the blower wheel. Install the lock washer and the retaining
nut. Again, it’s the counter-clockwise turn on
this because it’s the reverse thread. Now, when we go to tighten that nut on the
blower wheel, again, we’re going to need a wrench on the rear end of that motor shaft. Most of the newer motors will have a slightly
larger gap on there. It’s actually a 12 millimeter on this particular
one, so we’re going to need a 12-millimeter wrench. If it doesn’t rest up against the edge of
the cabinet, you’ll want to make sure that you clear that belt switch at the back of
the motor and then allow it to rest on the base. Take your ratchet and sock it to the front
and then turning it counterclockwise will tighten that off. Make sure it’s nice and secure. If you remove the front cover from the lower
housing, we’ll need to install that and the two retaining screws. Make sure that you keep these short screws
for that so that they don’t interfere with the blower wheel. We can reconnect the wire harness to the side
of the motor. Push it down firmly so that both the top and
bottom locking tabs are engaged. Now, we’re ready to put the dryer back together. Now, the first step in putting the dryer back
together will be to put the drum and belt in. We need to make sure that when we put the
rear of that drum in, that it fits over the top of both rear rollers and that the felt
stays on the outside lip of this rear bulkhead. We’re going to fit that drum in between those
blower rear bulkhead edges. Now, in putting the drum back in place, we
need to make sure that we fit the rear, the drum and the felt over top of those rear drum
rollers. We need to tilt it down the front and then
just slide it over top of those rollers and underneath the lip of the rear bulkhead. Getting the visual from the back, roll it
in place and make sure it sits flush and even all the way around. Center up the belt. There should be a mark where the belt have
been riding before. It’ll be just back of the center. Again, we’ll go to the front of the dryer,
then we’ll reach in with both hands. We’ll pull that belt from the right over to
the left. Reach in, we’ll find that belt. Lay it right across the top of the idler. We’re going to push that idler to the left. We’re going to pull the belt down on the inside
of the idler and then around the motor pulley and just rotate that drum a couple of turns. Make sure that it’s staying true and we should
see the blower wheel turning and the belt should stay on both poles. Verify that it’s staying in its track on the
drum and next we can put the front bulkhead and cross-member support in. Now our next step in reassembly is to put
the cross-member on. We’ll line up these two hooks on each side,
it’s the little slotted openings, just push them in and then press down, install the four
retaining screws, the two long ones on the top and the shorter ones through the front. These will be in the upper holes on the front. Next, we’ll put the bulkhead back on and like
installing the drum on the rear bulkhead, we need to make sure that the lip of the drum
fits in between the roller and that raised lip of the bulkhead. We’ll tuck the top of it in behind that panel
first. We may need to lift up on that drum to set
it in place, lift up the bulkhead, make sure all four those tabs fit into the keyhole openings. Just rotate that drum to make sure that the
felt is properly positioned all the way around and then we’ll put the four retaining screws
in. Now if you haven’t done so already, remember
to reconnect the wire harness to the light bulb socket and remember which of the wires
was facing forward. Make sure that’s in nice and secure, then
we can put the front panel on. Now I’m putting the front panel on. There are two slotted openings on the base
of that front panel that are going to fit over top of those two hooks that are attached
to the base. Make sure they drop over those completely
and just tilt that panel up. Before we put it in place, I’m going to take
that large harness and will tuck that down between the front bulkhead and that crossmember,
just pull that out through so that we can connect it. Make sure that connector is pressed in firmly,
the wire doesn’t pinch us we push the panel back into place. Next we’ll attach the four screws across the
top and next we’ll put the two machine screws in through to the housing below the lint filter. Because in machine screws, we need to make
sure that we don’t get them in cross threaded. I will take the remainder of our wire harness,
will tuck into those little clips that secure it. Take the two connectors that will attach closest
to the center, push those up through the opening. Then we’ll take our control panel and set
that in place. Over to our control housing. There are four tabs on the bottom that will
fit into these four slots, we’ll line those up and pull those harnesses through that opening
and attach them to the connectors. Make sure that the locking tabs engage on
both of those. Now the shorter harnesses will attach after
we have the control panel in place. Line up those tabs, just tilt the console
slightly forward at the top until they’re all engaged and that sits flush all along
the top and just press it in place. Check all over the top, make sure those little
plastic tabs are engaged. Then we will install the two retaining screws. We use of the two screws that have the slightly
different thread. Once we have those secure, we’re now ready
to reattach the four harnesses. We begin by separating those two larger wire
harnesses. Just keep those out of the way, we’ll reach
down inside and install the two smaller harnesses. Again, we want to make sure that the locking
tabs are engaged, tuck those other harnesses into that clip. Now we’ll install the two larger ones, make
sure we press them on firmly and both of those tabs are engaged. Now we can put the main top back on. Now when putting the main top on, one thing
we need to make sure of is these hooks on either side of that top will engage with these
four plastic bushings that sit along the side rails. We’ll lay the top in place, leave about a
half inch gap between the front edge of that top and the back edge of our console. Line it up evenly side to side. Just press it forward so that it engages all
four of those plastic grommets. Next we’ll put the three retaining screws
in at the back and just make sure they’re secure. Once we have the main top back in place, we
can then plug the dryer in or return on the breaker refuses and our repair is complete.

7 Replies to “LG Dryer Repair – How to Replace the Drive Motor (LG Part # 4681EL1008A)”

  1. When replacing support rollers on LG dryer, should I lubricate the bushings and with what kind of lubricant?

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