Kirkham University Aluminum Fender Dent Repair

Kirkham University Aluminum Fender Dent Repair


hi I’m David Kirkham president of Kerkar motorsports thanks for joining us for another edition of perco motorsports universe today I’m going to show you how to repair a fender we have a customer and was driving down the road and the rear tread on his tire delaminated the tread came around and beat up the fender really bad it’s pushed in about 12 inches I’m going to show you some of the magic of aluminum and how we can pull it right back out you’ll never be able to tell that it was ever damaged and today we’re going to show you how we do it thanks for joining us all right I’m going to zoom in on this fender and you can see that the fender has been pushed back in quite a bit it’s about 12 inches worth of damage there where it’s all been folded you see where the fenders folded up under what I’m going to do is I’m going to anneal the aluminum I’m going to show you how to anneal it how to make it softer so we can actually pull the aluminum back out into the shape that we want let’s get started on this repair and this is how you kneel you see this claim that I have has a lot of soot coming off it and Sid is really wonderful I can paint that fender just like this with a suit just like this get the fender all nice and black I’m going to adjust the flame to a neutral flame I’ve got a rosebud torch on here big torch you got a big flame it’s neutral I pulled the tones back together and now all I really have to do is just burn that sit off the cisterns off at the exact temperature that the aluminum needs to be to anneal now when you do this you want to be very gradual you don’t you don’t heat it up in one place you heat it up in just one place you’re very likely to melt the alumina if you punch a hole home is first up in fact so we’re going to come over here just really gradually heat up this one there you go you can see the aluminum certain are the bishops are ting to burn off right there we’re just now coming to the end you see we’ve earned most of the sit off you don’t have to burn every speck off the counter back that’s pretty dangerous you can punch a hole in the metal mount it right out as soon as you got most of the sit burned up you’re pretty good to go aluminum anneals at a very high temperature right close to the melting point you don’t have much wiggle room so you just want to keep it moving around and you’ll notice it is a slightly turning bowl right there that means X is hot and I can get it sometimes it just won’t burn off if you use this big plate and a big hammer and a big sledgehammer we got a really tight crease right here that doesn’t want it doesn’t want to come out we show you here how tight some of those wrinkles are that we’re getting out let’s like it stretch that wire pretty good but we’ll bring those dents right out big sledgehammers work really well as dolly use a pair of pliers here we’ve got a pretty difficult Bend right here I’m going to try to get out I’m going to protect the aluminum body from the players of just this little piece of scrap aluminum we’ve got right around there like that put the reverse curve back in this with the fender flares on someone use a teardrop hammer we’re going to really tight wrinkle here and to get now that at the rough shape is close we use a hammer steel hammer and a dolly right now using around into this dolly to pound those this back down lower low here I’ll use the flatter part of the dolly right here I’m doing is feeling the metal see if I can find any low spot and then I’m sitting Bob this is right where it was folded back about 180 degrees right back on itself and I’m just straightening out this part of the curve right now you can see this isn’t perfect it’s got some waves in it beat you you don’t get everything straight all at once you gradually pull it until it’s all even and perfect very straight rifles that need to come out I’m working mostly on this flurry er it’s always the hardest cuz there’s a lot of shape in it and it’s going several different directions using the chisel into the hammer get right next to the wire nice small overlapping blows straight now that’s Flair you see that it’s pretty close now little bitch fat right there there we got a little bit a little bit fat I want to pound that down good way to pound that down as with a softer mallet like this fold it on I’m going to hold it on the backside zoom in on this little really tight wrinkle here what we’ll do with that is I’ll tap that up if we can’t get it perfect we’ll actually just weld it in and then sculpt off and you won’t be able to see it when we’re finished that’s if we can’t get the aluminum to move right where we want it sometimes it stretched really far as it’s been folded over so we’ll just take it if we have to what is weld in that little divot but we’ll see we’ll see what comes up right here we’ve got a few little dings there that I want to straight now feels pretty good you dust on your hand it makes it slide now we’re going to use a pic in a file pick up the low areas and I’m going to file it off and make this panel perfectly straight sand it off and never be able to tell isn’t an accident when you pile it go over the surface very gently and it picks off all the high spot you want too big too hard to debug out some metal everywhere that it’s filed either high spot flat where this like right here zooming right there on that at the low spots will pick that up I’ll pick it up with this pick right here I’m right in tap it up pick right in the center now watch when I file that you’ll see wipe it that area a much smaller up a little low there we’ll pick that up like this run in very hard the lower their first curve area I’m going to use a round file you see that one area first one I was working on it’s almost gone once it’s flat once this all becomes a single plane it’s filed off the surface will be perfectly plowed home we’ll do is we’ll just keep working all down the panel let’s all filed out smooth here we finished the pounding out of the fender and the filing and you can see that the offender is all back into shape looking really beautiful see the reflections as I walk by the fender is all straight now that’s the original metal pulled right back into shape if we zoom in closely you can see where I filed out all of the little dents the panel’s all straight and now what we’re going to do is sand out the file marks brush it and we’ll be finished ready to deliver the car back to the customer hair I have a dual action air sander using 80 grit sandpaper and I’m going to sand off all the file marks and you’re ready to brush up okay after we’re done you running the da over the car and getting out all of the file marks now it’s time to brush it we’re going to do is try and blend this area into the already brush part we just grab a block we run usually to 220 grit sandpaper this has all been sanded out when we started with 80 grit from any grade we went to 150 180 grit from there we’ll go to 220 from there we’re going to 320 and then we’ll back back down to 220 grit paper we’ll sand all in straight lines you get a nice brush finish we finished brushing out the body brush it with 20 220 grit sandpaper we blended it up into the other brush part of the car and you can see the repair is completely invisible now thank you so much for joining us today at Kirkland motorsports University I’m David Kirk I’m the president of Kirkland motorsports we look forward to seeing you again soon in our next video


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