Hybrid and Electric Vehicle Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and Tools

Hybrid and Electric Vehicle Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and Tools


hello my name is John Kelly and this is the Weber Auto YouTube channel in this episode we are going to look at personal protective equipment and tools high voltage tools for use on hybrid and electric vehicles so to begin with let’s start with the personal protective equipment there are laws and regulations and standards that are intended to protect you as a worker when you’re working around hybrid and electric vehicles what we call high voltage in the automotive industry now I realize in the electrical industry our voltages are pretty low but for automotive voltages these are these voltages are pretty high upwards of 700 volts that I’ve seen on some hybrids so compared to the 12 to 14 volt system that we’re used to working on that’s high voltage well OSHA the Occupational Safety and Health Administration has laws that require your employer to make sure that you are trained annually and that you are provided with access to the proper personal protective equipment to protect yourself as you’re working on these on these vehicles so the what the law tells us and this is OSHA standard number 19 10.1 32 here in the United States it tells us basically that the employer is responsible for paying for the personal protective protective equipment that you use in your shop now there are exceptions to that if you for example have some personal personal protective work boots that you wear after work and take home then they don’t have to pay for those but if you go to work and change your clothes into work perf just clothing and boots then they do have to pay for it employers are required to pay for some sort of eye protection depending on what type of work you do you you might require a different type of eye protection the eye protection must be a certain type of eye protection there’s a standard from the American National Standards Institute or ANSI and the standard is the z87 standard for personal protection and what it does is it helps employers meet the OSHA regulation for eye and face protection so on your safety glasses these glasses right here that I have our safety glasses they are supposed to have some side shields on them to be full protection these of course are safety glasses they have the the side shields on them also but if you look here on the side of the the eyeglass this one reads and see z87 plus and so z87 is a is a standard and there are different years of that standard the plus means it’s a high impact resistant pair of safety glasses or goggles now for my prescription eyeglasses it’s a z87 – two plus so the – two tells us that the minimum thickness of these lenses is two millimeters so prescription safety glasses are a little heavier than the regular eyeglasses that you might purchase but it saves you from having to wear another safety glass over it unless a face shield is required alright so safety glasses eye protection of course is required for most employers anyway but especially working around hybrid and electric vehicles and then clothing you should be wearing clothing that doesn’t combust easily cotton clothing is recommended because of how slowly it it burns and it resists burning and then full where I’ve got a boot here that I bought all it’s been three years ago for this class for a demonstration and this is a safety toe non-slip oil and slip resistant electrical hazard boot but if you look at the tag on the inside of the the shoe here it reads ASTM which is another standards organization and then f24 13 – 11 so if we look up what the ASTM 24 – 11 standard means it tells us that this Footwear meets the performance requirements of that particular law issued in 2011 now the second line reads M I 75 see 75 the M means it’s meant for male if I had a F there’d be four female the I stands for impact and the 75 stands for 75 foot pounds so that tells us that the safety toe here in the boot can stand an impact of 75 foot pounds of force so that would be 75 pounds from one foot up or from two feet up that’ll be thirty seven and a half pounds and and so on so it can handle an impact of 75 pounds from one foot and it gets smaller and smaller the higher you go above that and then the last line here on the the tag is eh and that stands for electrical hazard and electrical hazard means that the boot is capable and this is a dry boot not a wet boot is capable of withstanding an application of eighteen thousand volts at sixty Hertz for one minute with no current or leakage current in excess of 1 milliamp in dry conditions so I know this kind of sounds boring but protecting your life should not be a boring thing you need the right shoes the right clothing the right safety glasses or face shield and then the proper gloves we’re coming to next year and then we’ll look at the tools and and so on all right I have a box of brand new high-voltage lines ‘men gloves these are class zero gloves and they are rated for 1,000 volts these gloves can be damaged instantly if you don’t treat them with care these gloves are only certified to be able to withstand that high of a voltage with no current leakage going through to your skin for a certain amount of time before they need to be recertified so here is a box of gloves I bought last year for this class and you notice that on the box right here it has a date of 9 of 16 September of 2016 and that is the shelf date and so the the way the standard reads for linesman’s gloves is that they can sit brand new in a box for a year and not have to be recertified but the first time you open the box and take take the gloves out of their special wrapping and expose them to the atmosphere then from that moment forward you’ve got 6 months for they need to be recertified now it tells us right on the glove itself that it was tested September of 15 and then on that red tag there it tells us that it’s a size 10 glove has a ANSI and a ASTM standard class zero and there’s class zero zero and there’s a bunch of other classes for different voltages maximum use voltages 1,000 volts AC and so let’s consider low voltage in the electrical a world I’ve been told and the voltages go much higher than that but for automotive hybrid and electric vehicle use the 1000 volt glove the classes zero glove is what you need now the size 10 there if you’re not sure what size glove you need just measure the circumference of your the palm of your hand here if it’s 10 inches then you need a size 10 glove to fit properly but anyone who’s ever worn these gloves for a very long time period at all knows that they get real hot and sweaty on your hands in just a short time period and so I would order maybe a half size or a full size larger so that you can wear an inner cotton liner glove to help keep your hand cool now just a quick review on the glove expiration date so this box here that I just got yesterday in the mail ordered these brand-new has a date of June of 2017 now as soon as I open these then I have six months before I either need to buy a new pair of gloves or send these out to be recertified so don’t get all cut up on the date that says tested on there initially when we started teaching these classes ten years ago we thought that you only had six months from the date on the glove well that is not the case it’s six months from the time that you open them as long as the date on the box is not more than a year old I know that’s confusing but anyway so these gloves here are more than six months old out of out of the box and are not safe to use and should not be used without having them recertified or just cut them up and throw them away so nobody else will will use them okay so let’s open this brand-new box of high voltage gloves these are from Salisbury so we opened them up there’s a nice plastic bag that they come in hang on to the Box hang on to the plastic bag I found that that’s by far the best way to store the gloves if you just leave the gloves laying out in the open the ozone in the air this the ultraviolet light from the the Sun will deteriorate these gloves very quickly and you’ll ruin them quite easily plus you should never have them folded or wadded up somewhere they always need to be laid out flat and straight when you when you store them so these as you can see are laid out flat and straight with the openings opposite of each other in the bag so we’ll just pull these out of here these actually say right on them tested six of seventeen so that matches the date on the box right there so they were tested June of this year and now I have until December well no I’m breaking breaking my own rule here I didn’t open them until September today is September 8th 2017 so I have six months from September eighth to use these before they need to be recertified but these gloves need to be tested every single time you use them or before you use them so let me put the bag back in the box so we can store them again and let me show you how to test these gloves so first look at the glove make sure it’s clean and dry we don’t want anything on the outside that is conductive that your arm could touch that could bypass the high voltage glove and get to your arm anyway these need to be good and clean another thing is to look for any cracks or cuts poke scrapes anything you know on a car how everything is sharp that you’re working on it’s real easy to damage these gloves so because of that you’ll actually end up where if you want to preserve the life of your gloves you’ll actually put a leather over glove on the outside of them while at the same time you’re wearing a cotton inner liner gloves so you actually have three gloves on at the same time but let’s learn how to test these gloves the easiest thing to test is for a leak and just put some blow some air in it I just kind of pinched the end here leave a little passage to blow some air and then I just roll it up I’m rolling so I’m inflating the glove itself and then I’ll listen for any leaks look for a leak if the glove deflates then there’s a leak somewhere either in you how tight your the ceiling is here on the end or there’s a leak in the glove itself but you need to retest it and make sure it’s good now a salisbury also sells a glove inflator and when I first saw this in their online catalog I thought what is that that’s kind of silly because we can just blow them up right there with our hand and mouth but when I ordered this thing I was actually impressed with it so what it has is a bellows here and a one-way check valve in there so it’s going to blow air up through and inflate the glove and then we attach the glove there’s a velcro strap right here we’ll take one of the gloves and stretch it over this cap just like that this glove will pop off as we’re inflating it if we don’t put this strap on here this velcro elastic strap to hold it down and even then you’re going to need to hold it keep it from flying off so there’s a seal around the outside of this upper cup here we’ll just set that down here and push down and we’ll lift it back up push down again so as you can see it inflates that not just the top of the glove but everything down below here around your wrists and the bottom of your hand anyway and then you can listen and look for damage and that really is a better way to go this was a fairly expensive thing to buy I can’t remember the price I think it was like $300 but it does a much better job of inflating the glove now remember your lie you are putting your life in your own hands every single time you put on these gloves and go work on some high voltage circuit so if you don’t test these every single time before you put them on you are literally taking a chance with your own life so let’s put these gloves on the way they’re intended to be used so the the first thing is we have a cotton inner liner glove that we wear so we’ll just put these on first this gives us a little bit of an air gap between the rubber type glove and your hand it gives it room to breathe so the cotton gloves on and then the high-voltage rubber gloves and then to protect those gloves from getting destroyed on the first sharp thing you touch we wear these special outer gloves there’s a cinch strap right here to cinch that up and the rule is always wear two gloves never just do one and think you’re going to be okay with the other hand because you never know when you’re going to need your other hand and you’ll forget that it’s not protected or maybe you’ll slip and put the other hand down and support yourself and it’ll be on something you shouldn’t be touching but now I have on some tested gloves for leaks there within the certification range on the as far as the law and the standards are concerned and I have some leather outer gloves these leather outer gloves are dirty because we’ve used them in class many times just don’t forget that as they get dirty they become conductive so these really need to be cleaned periodically to prevent the outer glove itself from being the conductor that you’re trying to avoid all right now with three layers of gloves on it’s hard to manipulate small little bolts and tools but with a little practice you can get that done now personally I’ve worn this combination of gloves for close to an hour before in class doing certain tasks on vehicles and and I’ve been comfortable the whole time but without that inner cotton liner it’s like five minutes and I’m dying I my hands are so sweaty I gotta get them out of there all right so let’s take those off now for those of you who maybe don’t want to wear cotton inner liner gloves Salisbury does sell what’s called glove dust and it’s this powder that you can put on your hands and then put on the glove to try to keep the sweat down personally I don’t like this as well as I do the the inner liner but with this you’ve got one layer less and so maybe it’s a little easier to manipulate bolts nuts tools sockets whatever your you’re doing there okay so that is the personal protective equipment as far as on your body but now let’s take a look at some of the additional personal protective equipment as far as tools okay as far as tools and other equipment for working on hybrid and electric vehicles you need to get yourself some orange cones these have some labels on them the sake danger high voltage but at least orange cones we are going to use the orange cones to surround the vehicle to let people know when you have opened up the high-voltage system let’s say you’re changing the battery or contactor or a computer or whatever it is or where there may be some high-voltage lines that are exposed and open the where anybody could walk up and touch them you need to have these cones all around the car maybe one on top and then they also recommend that you get some hazardous area or caution tape and stretch that from cone to cone and this is not really to protect you this is to protect other people somebody that the customer for example that left something in their car and they come back to get it and if you didn’t have the area marked as cautioned it’s possible that they could get hurt touching the wrong thing or causing a problem to occur so safety cones and hazard tape all right the next thing you need in your shop area for working on high-voltage vehicles especially if they have nickel metal hydride batteries is right here behind me I’ve got a class D fire extinguisher that yellow fire extinguisher here and a class D fire extinguisher is for combustible metals like nickel metal hydride so for some reason there’s a battery fire and you could use a type D fire extinguisher on them they are very expensive fire extinguishers I think this one was around five hundred dollars but at least you’ve got something that can put out a metal fire a Class A B or C fire extinguisher I understand doesn’t work on those one other big piece of equipment that I have right here is called a hot stick this is from Salisbury also this hot stick is rated for 1,000 volts also and the purpose of this hot stick is well one of the rules I’m working on hybrid and electric vehicles that is that you never do it by yourself you should always have somebody else in the shop with you and if for some reason you get electrocuted if somebody else comes over and tries to help you there is a possibility that they also could get electrocuted so this hot stick the handle is non conductive and the the hook here is a well it’s a body hook it’s you see these at swimming what looks like these at a swimming pool but it’s to pull somebody away from the high voltage if they are being electrocuted so a hot stick is another tool that you going to need okay let’s talk about high-voltage hand tools for a moment I have several high voltage hand tools here on the table that I that I want to look at the first one is just a set of screwdrivers this is from a German company the name is spelled WI H a I don’t know if the W actually sounds like a W in German or if it’s a V but these are safety insulated 1000 volt protection coated screwdrivers so they have a insulated handle and then they have a coated shank with a insulative coating and then flat screwdriver tip and then Phillips screwdriver tips so these are coated tools you can get these I think we got these through Grainger there I’m sure there’s several sources for them so that’s a coated screwdriver then we have a socket metric socket set this is also from a German company called Kenai pecs and the these are also coated tools so we have a coated 1000 volt insulation as long as it’s clean these always have to be clean and dry for that insulation work 3/8 inch ratchet here we have coated extensions just like that and then coated sockets anywhere from 10 millimeter up through 19 millimeter and so that is a coated ratchet extension and hand socket set from Kenai pecs all right Kenai pecs also makes a set of coated hand wrenches so I’ve got a set of open hand hand wrenches just has one one end that’s open that goes from it looks like eight millimeter looks like we got a 8 10 13 14 17 19 22 and 24 millimeter hand wrench in here and once again these are coated tools so it’s a steel tool with a high voltage coating over the outside of it all right I have to kind of poke fun at some toyota surfers service information I’ve seen in the past they just told you to get a roll of electrical tape and wrap it around your socket there’s so many different types of electrical tape it’s some that are more resistive than others and it anyway I think that you’re finally getting rid of that ridiculous procedure I can’t believe they have all people are doing that but anyway there are there are high-voltage tools out here and I do not recommend wrapping tools with electrical tape all right now the next set of tools that I have here are from snap-on so I’ve got a socket set here from snap-on these are not coated tools so yes they have steel shanks down in them for both the drive side and the socket side but in between there is no steel and that’s why they’re so thick here it takes whatever material they’re made of it it takes a lot of it to handle whatever maximum torque they’re rated at but this goes from 10 millimeter up to 19 millimeter encoded or not coated in composite sockets and then they have what looks like a child’s toy this is a snap-on 3/8 inch a ratchet and it has no metal in the handle itself it has of course of the metal ratchet part in the top there but this is a composite ratchet also and surprisingly these aren’t any more expensive than a regular snap-on socket set and ratchet here’s another tool that looks like a child’s toy a pair of needlenose pliers and yes these are snap-on the pliers partnumber see CP but it’s just a set of total composite needlenose pliers all right then extensions let’s say you need an extension for your ratchet well we’ve got a long extension right here this is a composite one it tells us to not immerse it don’t get it don’t coat it with conductive fluids keep it clean and dry and that so we’ve got a really long ratchet or extension and then we’ve got it I think that’s a 12-inch one and then we’ve got a 3-inch and a six inch long extension here also these look like like a carbon fiber wrapping on them these have metal inserts on each end but no metal in between here all right let’s smoke they have a breaker bar here and the breaker bar has a composite section in right here that insulates the head from the handle so a half-inch breaker bar and then this is a coated these are not composite this is a coated set of pliers rated for 1000 volts from snap-on I’ve got a little quarter inch drive bit holder for like a power tool I’ve got a 1/4 inch extension and then I’ve got a spring-loaded screw extractor for a standard screw and Philips head screw right there and then the last tools that I have here as far as hand tools are screwdrivers also and if we compare these to the first set they you might think that they’re the same but they’re not the snap-on ones are not coated metal shanks this is a composite shank and just has a steel insert in the end down here is my understanding so they’ve got number 1 2 & 3 Phillips & & 1 2 & 3 flathead screwdrivers here all right so there’s a variety of hand tools available for automotive high voltage work snap-on is the first one that I saw that had high-voltage tools I haven’t checked with anyone else because honestly we don’t get anybody else coming by the school very often trying to sell us tools where snap-on it’s been there regularly year after year after year for those of you who follow my channel you may notice all the snap-on tools we have and and I really like snap-on tools and I know they’re expensive but the service end of that goes with it also somebody there when he needed in exchange and they’ve always been there all right a couple other tools and equipment to look at I got a bag of insulated caps and these are from Kent more tools it’s part number E for eight five six nine and all this is is just a covering that would go over the end of a high voltage wire so for example if you read in the service information on on some vehicle manufacturers especially Toyota if you on a high voltage wire even though there’s no voltage you’re on it they’ll tell you to wrap the end of it with electrical tape well you don’t need to wrap it if you’ve got one of these you just stick this over the end of it and protect it and so I’ve got a lot of these a couple of sets of these that I use that work really well so these go over the ends of high-voltage cables alright now let’s talk about multimeters I’m a big fluke meter fan I think they built some fantastic meters and or just good good quality lasts many many years I’ve got some multimeters here that have been here as long as I have and I’m in my 27th year hear that from fluke that it still work but you have to be very picky about the meter that you use when you want to work on hybrid and electric vehicles so there’s a rating it’s called a category three rating that your multimeter must meet in order to be safe to even hold in your hand when you’re taking voltage measurements all right the the fluke 87 meter is rated as a category 3 meter and so if we look right on the the front of the meter right between the black input terminal and the red input terminal to the right of it it reads category 3 1000 volts so that means that this meter holding it in your hand and the meter itself can handle 1000 volts without burning itself up without shocking you through the the meter case itself the meter leads themselves also say right on them category 3 1000 volts and so you have to have clean meter leads that are in good shape along with a multimeter and not doesn’t have to be fluke but any meter that’s rated category 3 would be good enough to work on a hybrid and an electric vehicle and we had several of these meters donated to our school here a few years ago a whole bunch of them actually I think they gave us 12 which is really nice and thank you but these are all category 2 600 volt meters and we couldn’t recommend to any of our students to buy one of these because they don’t they’re not certified to the category 3 standard so look at your multimeter if it’s not rated at a category 3 on the front of the meter chances are it’s not category 3 now there are some older fluke meters that don’t have any categories on the front of them but if you look up in there the owner’s manuals that you can find online in a PDF document it’ll tell you that they actually heard some actually were category 3 some were category 2 and and so on but find your owner’s manual when in doubt and see what it’s rated for several years ago I taught a night class where I was describing that the advantages and benefits and how nice these food meters are and I had a student say well I don’t need to spend $300 on a multimeter I bought one for three dollars and 95 cents at Harbor Freight and I said we’ll bring it in we’ll check it out I’ll see see how how good it is and so he brought it in it has no category ratings at all on the meter itself the owners mount or the instructions that come with it say nothing about category ratings the the meter leads themselves say 1,000 volts but there’s no category there and I wouldn’t trust it at all to be safe to use on high voltage so what if it doesn’t have that rating that means that just holding the meter leads in your hand or the multimeter in your hand will take in a measurement on a high voltage circuit there’s a possibility that it could do damage to the meter or even jump through the case of the meter and shock you so get rid of the cheap meters find yourself a meter no matter the price that has a category 3 rating all right so get the useless meters out of the way for hybrid and electric work and our standard fluke 87 meter here is just fine for almost every single reading or measurement that you need to take on a high voltage hybrid or electric vehicle this is a great meter and works great there is another meter though that you will also need for hybrid and electric work fluke makes one and other multimeter manufacturers make them also and this is called an insulation multi meet insulation tester multimeter this is the fluke 1587 the fluke 1587 so what this is is this is pretty much the same multimeter that you have here but it has some additional features that allow it to test for really really high resistances you could call this a mega ohm meter would be another term for that and how does it do that well the the fluke 87 here uses of like like all multimeters applies a voltage to a circuit that it wants to check the resistance of and when it applies a voltage through the the two meter leads current will flow through whatever component you’ve touched the meter leads to and how much current goes through it is inversely proportional to the amount of resistance so in other words high resistance gives us low current and lower resistance gives us high current and then it doesn’t Ohm’s law calculation and gives us a resistance check here the voltage that the Fluke 87 meter uses to measure resistance isn’t anywhere near the voltage that is normal used in those circuits and so it doesn’t have enough power to measure that resistance accurately but this meter the Fluke 1587 can apply up to 1,000 volts while measuring resistance to check for short circuits and the stator windings of of a hybrid or electric vehicle alright so the way that that happens is it has a unique a unique meter lead here so this meter lead has a button on the end of it right there and it has a strange electrical connector right there and that strange connector plugs into the meter right here and then we’re going to take our black lead and we’ll put our black lead in the common input terminal right there and now we have our two meter leads the red one and the black one so now when we want to check to see if the stator windings are shorted to the stator frame of the motor we can use this meter now normally that would be an open circuit and so any multimeter would show oh L for overload or out of limits whatever definition you want to use there but it overloads at twenty mega ohms 20 million ohms is all it can measure this one can go up into I forget the spec on this one I think it’s five Giga ohms five billion ohms it can measure with the high voltage there okay so I brought over a stator winding for motor be from a Chevrolet Volt for ET 50 transaxle that I have over here on the bench and the stator windings are these copper windings here there are three coils of wire here and three connections over over here on the side with the regular fluke 87 meter we are going to check to see if any of these three windings have rubbed through or shorted to the outer case the housing itself because none of those should have should do that because if you do you’ll have a shorted stator and the motor will be real jerky or won’t work at all so if we go from one of these three terminals here to the case it should read o L and it is so that indicates that there’s an open circuit but that Oh L is only measured with a small amount of voltage that this meter puts out so if we take the fluke 1587 meter and take out our resistance checking probe and put in the multimeter probe instead over here what we are going to measure is the voltage that the fluke 87 uses to measure resistance so we’ll just took red red black the black v the fluke 87 is on ohms the fluke 1587 is on volts so that’s telling us that we are the fluke 87 is using two point seven volts to measure resistance on that stator winding two point seven and this thing can run close to 700 volts has a 380 volt battery I believe the the Volt does so two point seven volts is pretty unrealistic and so let’s get this fluke 87 out of the way for a moment and we’ll put the resistance checking meter lead back in over here and now we will go from the stator case itself here – one of the leads let’s flip this to what’s called insulation test so over here on the right-hand side right there we have orange numbers that read 50 to 1000 volts insulation so we’re not going to put it on ohms we’re gonna put it over here to insulation test and then when we’re ready to test the insulation or test what should be the super high resistance between the stator winding and the the housing we’re going to press that orange button or we can press this button here on the end of the the meter lead so I’m going to put that right here on the copper conductor just kind of lay it here sideways and we’ll let see let me get the meter positioned where we can read it okay here we go so it’s telling us as 2.2 Giga ohms with 1000 volts applied 2.2 Giga ohms 2.2 billion ohms of resistance between these two and each vehicle manufacturer will have a minimum amount of resistance allowed and if it’s higher than that then we’re okay so whatever that that may be now that was with 1000 volts there’s a test voltage button right here where we can switch to 50 volts and then 100 250 500 and 1000 so 50 so 50 100 250 500 and 1000 now 1000 is too high to use on a vehicle that doesn’t use a 1000 volt electrical system so we have to pick the next lowest the next lowest voltage which is 500 so all the tests I’ve seen for checking for shorted stator windings use the 500 volt scale so we’ll switch this to 500 instead right there and on 500 volts I’ll touch right here I’ll press the button on the lead and now we’ve got 550 million ohms 50 mega ohms at 500 volts so the amount of voltage applied affects the the resistance so still there’s a there’s a minimums specification there now this is more realistic and that’s why they’re using this meter to check these because these don’t run on 2.7 volts that the other meter uses to check resistance so that’s why we have the insulation tester or mega ohm meter as other major manufacturers call it so Chrysler General Motors even Toyota call for this fluke 1587 insulation tester I’m sure others do also because it’s a seems to be a wonderful meter all right well we’ve talked about personal protective equipment the specialty tools and multimeters that are all related to service work on hybrid and electric vehicles we talked a little bit about your shop you’ve got to have a fire extinguisher the the hot stick body hook you should never work alone I always have somebody nearby keep everything clean use the cones around the car the tape around the car to keep customers away from it these are all basic minimum requirements for safe operation safe diagnostic and service work on a hybrid or an electric vehicle and I can tell you that it’s almost impossible to accidentally shock yourself working on one of these chances are extremely slim and even more so if you’re using the proper personal protective equipment now that’s true unless there’s a check engine light or some sort of a warning light on and then look out because it can be there could be a short somewhere that’s electrifying something that you don’t would normally be electrified all right well thank you for watching


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