How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN

How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN


Hi in this video I’ll be thoroughly
explaining how to solder copper pipes
they get a nice leak free joint. If
you’re unfamiliar with soldering, you’ll
be able to solder any diameter pipe
after this video with ease and peace of
mind. There are 3 steps to solder a
copper joint. Step 1 is preparation.
preparation is the secret to getting a
leak-free joint. If you skip or half do it,
it will most probably leak and
cause damage to your property,
so this step needs to be followed very
closely. Step 2 is the actual soldering
process which I’ll get into details in
just a moment. And step 3, which is
finalizing the joint. With that said
let’s get started. All right, so the first
thing I want to go through are the tools
and materials you’ll be needing to
complete the task. So tool number one is
a torch. You’ll find a good torch at your
local hardware store that should cost
you between 20 to 50 Canadian dollars
yes there are better models out there
for commercial plumbers, but if you’re a
do-it-yourself doing minor work these
will do just fine. To be able to use your
new torch you’ll be needing some fuel.
There are two varieties of fuels for you
to choose from.
You’ve got your ordinary propane gas
which you can either find in your
camping aisle which should look like
this or in the plumbing section at the
store or map gas which should look like
this.
The difference between both of these is
that map gas burns hotter than propane
which in turn heats up your joint
quicker so it’s up to you to choose
which one you want to use. Next up is a
lighter for your torch.
If your torch doesn’t have one built-in
like this, you can either use a dedicated
igniter which can be somewhat costly or
use a $1 BIC lighter like I do. Your pipe
and fitting will need to be cleaned from
any surface corrosion or dirt that could
compromise the joint while soldering. To
do this, you’ll be needing some sandpaper
or emery cloth for the pipe and wire
brushes for the fitting. Something else
you’ll need is some soldering flux or
paste. The primary purpose of flux is to
prevent oxidation of the base and filler
material, without it soldering is
literally impossible. Here’s what trying
to solder with and without flux looks
like. And the last thing you’ll be
needing is solder. There are many filler
materials that can be used for soldering
copper, but the most two common ones are
lead-solder and lead-free solder. Lead-
free solder, which is also known as 95/5,
is what’s used for potable water line.
When doing copper drains, lead-solder,
which is also known as 50/50, can be used
seeing it won’t come in contact with
anyone. So as I mentioned earlier
the video, preparation is key to having a
good leak-free joint. The first step to
accomplish this is to clean both parts
that will be joined together. To clean
the pipe take your sandpaper and sand
the portion that will penetrate the
fitting till it resembles this, as you
can see there’s no more surface
spottings and that’s exactly what we’re
looking for.
Next is the fitting, you want to use a
dedicated size brush where you’re
fitting to get it clean. They most often
arrive clean from the manufacturer but
it’s important to get the surface
roughed up a bit just so the solder can
adhere better. If you’re a commercial
plumber and are cleaning a large amount
of fittings in a day, a cool trick that I
learned is to cut off the tip of these
and use them in a drill as such making
the process much quicker and less tiring.
With both of your surfaces now prepped
let’s assemble them, but before you’ll
need to apply some flux. Applying flux is
pretty self-explanatory, all that’s
needed is enough of it to cover both
surfaces that touch just like this. With
your flux now applied it’s time for the
actual soldering process which is step 2.
Now the goal here is to heat the portion
you want your filler material to be
pulled into. There’s a scientific term
for this and it’s called capillary
action. Capillary action is the ability
of a liquid to flow in narrow spaces
without the assistance of external
forces meaning it will flow upwards
which is pretty cool. It’s imperative to
start heating your joint at the bottom
first for two reasons. Reason one being
is if you start heating the top first,
your solder will want to flow down due
to gravity but won’t have anywhere to go
since the bottom of the joint is too
cool to melt the solder, so always start
from the bottom and work your way up. And
reason two is as you heat the bottom the
heat rises and heats up the top of your
joint as opposed to starting on top
which takes longer for the heat to go down.
So keep on heating it up while testing
your solder every now and then to see if
it gets sucked in. Eventually your joint
will be hot enough to accept your solder
so go ahead and run a nice bead all
around the joint to ensure full coverage.
A good tip here is always inspect your
joint after soldering it it’ll speak for
itself meaning that if you haven’t
correctly heated the joint, you should get
something that looks like this. If this
happens, all you have to do is reapply a
bit of flux, heat up the joint and solder
the affected area. As a final step, when
you’re sure that your joint is soldered
correctly wait a couple of minutes for
it to cool down. Some plumbers will use
flux to clean up the joint while it’s still very hot
but doing this could cause a big drop in
temperature in very small amount of
time and can fracture the joint causing
a leak.
Once your solder solidifies, use a rag to
wipe off any excess flux that could
potentially eat up your pipe in the long
run and you’re done. If you guys enjoyed
this back to basics video, let me know in
the comments down below so I could
add to this series and also what type of
topics you’d like to see as always don’t
forget to follow me on Instagram I post
content regularly so go check it out and
also follow me on Facebook and I invite
you to subscribe to the channel for more
cool upcoming videos thanks again for
watching

100 Replies to “How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN”

  1. My question is when you do the next joint does it loosen the joint you've already soldered if you get it to hot. Thanks

  2. Excellent video, thank you so I like the brush that you cut off the end and put it in the drill, that is cool. https://www.californiaac.com/elsegundo.php

  3. An idea for a video if you donโ€™t have one already: How to create or move a exterior tap for a garden hose.

  4. as i am soldering right next to joists under the floor i am intending to use pre soldered joints to make things easier…maybe

  5. you are confusing "PREPARATION" which is getting your parts and tools together with cleaning and sanding. As far as " capillary action" goes, it is indifferent to direction: up down right or left, if what you are saying is true then when you are soldering the top of the joint the solder will seep away from the fitting in the upward direction. enjoyed your ego babble while passing gas.

  6. How come North Americans usually pronounce everything the way it is spelled (eg. route) but can't pronounce the word SOL – DER it isn't exactly difficult.

  7. i just got stuck on a job where flexible 1/2" COPPER was used as feed to shut off valves. i tried to connect new sharkbite shut off valves and the flex copper line was too small. asking for advice on how to proceed and finish with pex fittings.

  8. actually the primary function of flux is to help solder follow the flux so when solder melts it can go into the fittings and when soldering you focus on heating the pipe rather than fitting, you apply solder on pipe which then go inside fitting. also try to use flux only on the pipe because if you use flux inside the fittings then when you insert pipe it pushes some flux inside the fittings and solder will go there too which causes pressure reduction due to too much solder deposit inside the joint.

  9. Thanks!

    I was having trouble making a repair on my lawn sprinkler system until I watched this video.

    May you keep teaching the world…all the best to you and your family.

  10. "Brazing joins two metals by heating and melting a filler (alloy) that bonds to the two pieces of metal and joins them."
    "Welding uses high temperatures to melt and join two metal parts."
    It isn't welding. It's brazing.

    https://www.machinedesign.com/fasteners/whats-difference-between-soldering-brazing-and-welding

  11. Great video. Thanks.

    Here is a review of different soldering irons https://solderingironguide.com/

  12. Yes! Finally the correct pronunciation of solder. Ok. Iโ€™m not distracted anymore. Thanks for the awesome vid.

  13. Outstanding video! This is how instructional videos should be made.

    Quick. To the point. Covered the information in adequate detail. And did all of this without any lengthy bullshit introduction or rambling.

  14. Why do you say soldering drains can be done with 50/50 (lead) because it doesn't come in contact with anyone? The leaching lead flows through the pipes into nature or at lease into the water purification installations. And what about the solder vapor?! During soldering, we breathe the lead contaminated fumes? Not very healthy for us and all that lives or grows. If soldering without lead is as good, why not always use lead free, 95/5 solder? Just asking.

  15. I just learned itโ€™s best to first heat the pipe (it will expand a little) and than the โ€˜jointโ€™ together with โ€˜the pipeโ€™. The expansion will reduce the air gab (insulator) This way both parts will heat evenly allowing the solder to flow better.

    Trying to heat the whole joint, both parts โ€˜at onceโ€™ by heating the widest part will not work. The air (insulator) makes the pipe heath not as quick and not at the right temperature. One part to hot (and the other not hot enough) will overheat (burn) the solder.

  16. Sir
    Threaded pipe fittings needs welding or not??
    Example: thredolet or threaded pipe coupling
    needs welding or not??
    Please reply me..

  17. I have welded many copper joints in AC business, I have never seen flux put inside the coupling? I would never do this because flux residue could get into the freon line. Really flux isn't required to weld, welded many joints without it but flux can aid in the process of welding to make it a little easier.

  18. Hi…

    I'd like to know if there's a varnish ot other product i could apply on copper plumbing to help the copper keep it's brand new finish / color.

    Beforethe actual soldering, i brush / sand the pipes on their entire length and take care to make beautiful (and good !!!) solder joints… But would like to have the pipes keep their "brand new" finish and prevent oxidation.

    Thank you.

  19. I think what really pulls in the solder is because in that the small space as the flux Boils off (evaporates) it creates a vacuum that pulls in the liquid solder. Big thing I was told when learning to is heat the fitting not the solder. Once the fittings hot enough touching the solder to it will melt the solder then vacuum will pull it in.

  20. Why are you saying โ€œsoderโ€. Who says the โ€œLโ€ is silent? Do Americans call a military man a โ€œsodierโ€? No, you say โ€œsoldierโ€, so why not say โ€œsolderโ€

  21. I'm a pro and this isn't bad, as far as it goes. Don't try this on pipes larger than 2 inch, without more prep. You want to keep the joint clean, I have sweat joints upside down and backwards at arms length with a mirror. You could also heat the pipe as it's the heat differential between the pipe and the fitting that draws the solder. Don't use Selenium solder, it's weaker, melts at a lower temperature but just don't. Trust me on that. Most importantly, don't try to sweat pipe on a closed system. Yes, I have done it by heating the pipes to pre expand the air so when the rest of the pipe is cooling and keeps the pressure neutral while I sweat a joint, but it's not something I recommend people do. Especially if you are going to test with water instead of air.

  22. Copper drains?? I saw this for the first time ever recently on a very old building but didn't know it was still used.

  23. Hello im coming from high end construction family, donโ€™t know if you actually fallow, Mother working with autocad and making communication water, heat, ventilation, systems.
    Father general builder,
    I am right now working on communication systems water heat plumbing etc montaition. Have some international Europe experience and high end top costumers. Right now I am working and needed some help, after watching your videos loved the idea of making videos. Really inspired. Would love to actually work some time. I am From Latvia. Thanks for reading. Actually it would probably increase your rates tho. Played hockey and been in military, restored catholic school. Just broke ๐Ÿ˜‚

  24. Nice video. It would be better though if you'd slow down some and not talk so fast and allow images to stay up longer and more completely.

  25. Careful!: At 3:12, it looks like he is heating the ell part RED HOT! He's not; it's just some video editing trick to indicate which part is being heated.

  26. This was very well done, fast and to the point. I do not get why or how you got any negative reviews at all. Very easy to follow and very clear to the point visuals. Perfect! You would think that people would appreciate any free education they can get. Anyways dont take the negative reviews personally, as you did an amazing job with this video.

  27. from the UK and started my plumbing course 4 weeks ago, got the hang of soldering but thought id see how other people do it.

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