How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)

How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)

Hey guys ChrisFix here
And today i’m gonna show you how to remove and install a transmission in your car or your truck
Now the reason why you might need to remove a transmission may be you’re going to send it out to get rebuilt
Or maybe you have a clutch that’s wearing out. So you need to replace the clutch
You can also have an oil leak at the rear of your engine where the engine and transmission meet and that could be an indication
That you have a bad rear main seal
You could have a bad pilot bearing or a bad throw up bearing which is exactly what happened to my Mustang listen to this
So if we’re in neutral and we go to start the car
Take our foot off the clutch
And that’s a bad throw out bearing watch this if I press on the clutch it goes away
But when I take my foot off the clutch it comes right back
So before I cause any damage
I’m going to shut this off and let’s get that fixed now in order to replace the throw up bearing as well as the other
Parts that I mentioned you need to drop the transmission out of the car or truck, but don’t worry. It’s not that difficult
I’m going to show you all my tips and tricks on how to remove the transmission and then how to install it so that you’ll
Be able to do this at home yourself and here are all the tools that you’re going to need
You’re going to need a ratchet a good socket set some
Extensions and you’re definitely going to want one of these universal joint extensions to get to the hard-to-reach bolts
You’re going to want a couple of wrenches torque wrench and possibly a breaker bar. You’re also gonna need a jack and jack stands
You’re gonna need a drain pan and some transmission fluid and I highly suggest getting a transmission jack
I see a lot of guys try to take the transmission out using a regular jack a lot of times the transmission will fall over
You could crack the case. That would be a very expensive mistake. This is inexpensive
I’ll link it in the description totally worth to get you could strap down the transmission
It’ll just make your job that much easier with the amount of money that you’re saving
It’s totally worth the investment and that’s just about everything you’re gonna need to remove and install a transmission
So with that being said, let me show you the 10 steps to remove the transmission first
We need to safely lift the vehicle then remove the negative battery cable remove the shifter exhaust drain the transmission fluid disconnect the driveshaft
remove the starter remove and set aside the wiring harness unbolt the transmission mount and
Unbolt and remove the transmission and while that might seem like a lot it’s really not that bad
what I did is I broke it down to a bunch of
Smaller easy to accomplish steps so that as we do this job
We could stay organized and I will include a link in the description
– this checklist so you could download it and print it if you want to use it with that said let’s get started and the
First step is to lift and support the vehicle
and as you can see
I already safely lifted the car up and put it on jack stands just like you would any time you’re working on your car
But I do have a few tips and tricks
Specifically for if you’re removing the transmission, so let’s cover them
And the first one is you need to make sure that your car is lifted high enough to remove a transmission
Transmissions are pretty big. So you need enough room to drop it down and slide it out in this case
I couldn’t use ramps because my lowered car just wouldn’t get lifted high enough
Well now if you have a lift at home great use it, but most people including myself don’t have a lift
So I’ll be using good old jack stands and instead of using your normal three ton jack stands
I went out and I bought myself some 12 ton jack stands the 12 ton jack stands will give you a lot more lift than
Your classic 3 ton, and I don’t even have to extend the jack stand
So they’re gonna be a lot more stable
Another trick when you’re placing your Jack’s you want to make sure you separate them as far apart as possible
So they’re not right underneath the transmission
That way you could get your transmission jack under there and have plenty of room to work and drop that transmission out without
interfering with your jack stands
so for me the perfect place to put these Jack’s was right on the frame rail and move them out far enough and it’s also
On a nice solid support and my last quick tip for lifting your vehicle up has to do with safety even though we have two
Jack stands in the front and two in the rear
I still like to go in the front and slide something underneath the front tires. We’re using a ramp
You could use a wheel whatever it is to keep you safe
I also like to put a jack on the front crossmember
Supporting it just in case you never know if you’re removing the transmission and then the transmission bumps the jack now the cars falling on
A ramp and not falling on you
I always like to play it safe and when your cars safely lifted up now we can move on to the next step which is
To remove the negative battery cable
so pop open the cover and
Unscrew the clamp and slide the cable off the battery post set aside the cable and make sure it doesn’t touch the battery post
So with the negative cable removed now we could go on to our next step and let’s remove this
Shifter and the reason why you want to remove your shifter so early in the process. This is our third step
We haven’t gotten under the car
We haven’t drained transmission fluid done the exhaust any of that stuff, which could get you greasy and dirty right now
I could touch the interior and not have to worry about anything because my hands are
So make sure you do this first before you get your hands greasy
now let’s make sure the car is in neutral and just
Unscrew the shift knob to remove it next remove the shifter trim by prying it upwards and slide it off the shifter lever
now we could unscrew these two nuts holding the shifter lever on and then slide the lever off the shifter like so
Then there’s four bolts holding in the shifter boot. So unscrew all four of them
And because I have my hydro you brake tied into one of these bolts
I need to slide the boot cover up and over to remove it just like that
And finally, there’s four bolts holding in the short shifter
so let’s remove all these and
Now we can remove this shifter and with our shifter removed that’s going to give us a lot more room to drop the transmission down
And nothing is gonna get hung up here
It’ll also help when we fill the transmission with transmission fluid later on because we could fill it from right here instead of the side
Of the transmission, which becomes a mess
so now we can move on to the next step which is to remove the exhaust now you want to double check because in some
You might not need to remove your exhaust system to get your transmission out in this case our transmission runs from the front here all
The way back to the X pipe, so we definitely have to remove the exhaust. Luckily. We don’t have to remove the entire exhaust
We’re going to just remove from the downpipe up here to the X pipe right here
But before we do that, we want to disconnect our oxygen sensors and instead of unscrewing each oxygen sensor from the exhaust
It’s a lot easier to just disconnect them from the wiring harness
So just press down on this clip and then pull them apart like so
So with the two downstream option sensors disconnected now, we need to remove the two upstream oxygen sensors
There’s one on this side of the exhaust right there. And there’s one on the other side of the exhaust right there
So press down on the clip and pull to disconnect it now
We can move to the other side and disconnect this oxygen sensor the same way
Good. So with all the oxygen sensors disconnected now, we can remove the nuts holding in this downpipe and holding in that down pipe
So let’s get started on the driver’s side
I like to spray down the exhaust fasteners with penetrating fluid anytime I go to remove them
So they come off easier, especially if they’re rusted now
We could get our 18 millimeter socket and remove the top nut and then remove the bottom one
Good. Now, let’s do the same thing on the other side remove the top nut and for the bottom one
we need to use a
Universal joint extension because we don’t have a straight shot at getting to that fastener since the frame is in the way so remove this
Nut good and with the two front exhaust pipes disconnected now, we can move to the back bolts behind the X pipe
There’s four bolts that need to come out and using a ratcheting wrench makes this real quick and easy
Now with all four rear fasteners removed we could separate the exhaust pipes and remove the exhaust from the car
All right, so at the front of our exhaust removed now
we could go back under the car and our next step is to drain the transmission fluid now we want to do this because
We’re gonna be removing the drive shaft, which means that fluid could come pouring out of the tail shaft
Especially when we drop the transmission down. We don’t want to make a mess
So draining it now will prevent that mess
We also are gonna be replacing the clutch you might as well get some new fluid in there
so draining it out and filling up with some new fluid later will definitely help out and
finally draining the fluid out now is gonna lighten up this transmission the lighter the
Transmission the easier it is to remove so let’s get that transmission fluid out of here and all you have to do
Right over here. We have the transmission drain plug
you’re just gonna get a box end of a 3/8 ratchet and
Just crack it open like so and don’t forget the drain pin and let’s loosen this the rest of the way
beautiful now
We’re gonna let all this fluid drain out and once it drains completely we could screw the drain bolt back in and tighten it up
Don’t over tighten
It just make it snug because you could easily strip the threads in the aluminum transmission case
Alright and with our transmission fluid removed now, we can move on to our next step which is to remove the driveshaft
We don’t have to worry about the driveshaft on this end because this just slides out once we remove the bolts
Where the driveshaft meets the differential now, there’s four bolts holding this in since we’re in neutral
Let’s spin the driveshaft you can see there’s two bolts right here
And there’s two bolts on the other side
Now you want to set the parking brake that way when we get our wrench on here and we turn it the driveshaft
Doesn’t move and one thing to keep an eye on with driveshaft bolts a lot of times
They’re not the normal six point bolt that you’re used to in this case. We’re removing twelve point bolts
so just make sure that you’re using a 12 point wrench or a 12 point socket when you’re removing these bolts because the six point
Will strip this out. So again with the twelve point wrench on here now, we can remove these bolts
Oh, man, and that is not budging. Sometimes these get stuck on there pretty good
So it’ll the bolt heat up the metal surrounding the bolt
And I’m also gonna be using a longer wrench to give me more leverage and there we go
That’s how you remove a stuck driveshaft bolt
now follow the same process for the other bolts heat it up then loosen it and
Remove it now release the ebrake and spin the driveshaft
So we have access to the two other bolts
Then engage that ebrake again and the same as before heat around the bolt loosen it up and remove it
heat around the bolt loosen it up and
Remove it now the driveshaft should come right out back here
And in the front we want to slide it out with a catch can under the end of the transmission
Just to catch any extra fluid that might leak out and one trick I have is to get a sandwich bag and open it up
Around the end of the transmission. So when we lower it down, it won’t leak everywhere if it tilts backwards
All right, and with this driveshaft removed, we are one step closer to removing the transmission
So let’s get back underneath the car and work on the next step which is to remove the starter
The starter is located right where the engine and transmission meet. And in this case. It’s on the passenger side right over here
So there are three bolts that are holding in our starter all of them
You have to get two from this back side. The first one is right here
The second one is right here and the third one. You can’t even see it’s tucked up back here
so let’s start with these two which are a lot easier to remove first get the oxygen sensor wire out of the way then we
Need to break this nut free and then unscrew and remove this metal mount which is in the way now
Let’s remove the first bolt holding in the starter good and with that bolt out
We don’t have to disconnect any wires back here because we’re gonna just have this starter. Hang right over here
We don’t have to remove it completely. We just need to get out of the transmission bellhousing
So the next bolt we need to remove is this one right here and you can kind of feel it on the back here
But there’s no room in here to get a ratchet
So what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna come around to the front of the engine and that’s gonna give us better access
So if you take a look into this gap right here
You can see the second bolt that we need to get to and now to get all the way to that bolt
We’re going to be using a long extension. So slide that extension all the way in
And get it on that bowhead
Then we could break it loose and loosen it the rest of the way and I’ll get my hand back here
Good now to get to the third hard-to-reach bolt
Which is all the way back here while the trick to removing that bolt is to use a little quarter inch ratchet with an extension
and we’ll get this ratchet back behind the starter get the socket on the bolt and
Break it loose and there’s just enough room to move the ratchet back and forth to unscrew the bolt
So with that bolt removed now, we can remove the starter and set it aside
so it’s out of the way and now we can move on to the next step which is to
Disconnect the wiring harness. We have a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission and it’s clipped into the transmission
So we want to disconnect it
We don’t actually have to remove it from the car
Just disconnect it and set it off to the side so that we can lower the transmission down without this getting hung up
So we’re gonna start back here at the end of the wiring harness
There’s a clip right here that we’re gonna remove using one of these trim removal tools
So stick it underneath the clip and then pry upwards good. Now we have the speed sensor right here, which needs to get disconnected
so just press down on the tab and pull this out and
Then we have a clip here that needs to be popped out the reverse light switch here
Which could just be unplugged and the other clip which could be popped out as well?
Now we could set aside the harness and let’s remove the dust cover on the transmission so we could remove the clutch cable
This is the clutch cable and to remove it get a pry bar and release the pressure from the clutch fork and slide the cable
Up and out of the fork
then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clip and then the clutch cable could be removed from the transmission and
Finally the last step before we remove the transmission. We need to remove the rear transmission mount right here. There’s two bolts
There’s one there and there’s one there
But before we unbolt this we need to support the transmission
So it doesn’t just fall that could put unwanted stress on the motor mounts in the front
So, let’s slide the transmission jack in and crank it up
Good now we could strap down the transmission using the strap built into the jack and make sure it’s tight
So this transmission won’t fall off the jack
So with the transmission being strapped in and held up by the transmission jack now
We could remove the two bolts holding in this transmission mount starting with the driver side bolt
And once that’s loose just wiggle it out like so and let’s break free and remove the second and last bolt holding in this mount
Good alright, so with our transmission mount unbolted Wow, look at this
There is so much play in this transmission mount we’re gonna have to replace that
But anyway with this unbolted
We’ve completed all of our steps so we could finally unbolt and remove the transmission and to do that
We need to unbolt the transmission from the engine. There are nine bolts holding this transmission in there’s three bolts on this side
There’s two bolts under the transmission
there’s two bolts on top of the transmission and there’s two bolts on the other side now to give you a better idea of where
All the bolts are laid out. Here’s what it looks like without the transmission
You can see we have three bolts on the driver’s side. We have two bolts on the bottom
We have the two bolts on the passenger side and then the two bolts at the top and now that you know
Where all nine bolts are located. This is actually really simple. The hardest ones are the two at the top, but don’t worry
They’re not that bad to get to and I have a trick to make it really easy
So let’s get started and remove the three bolts on the driver side over here. That’s one
Three and with those three bolts removed you saw how easy that was now, let’s remove the bottom two bolts
So let’s get this one off right here
Good and then the other one as well
Good, and then there’s two more bolts on the passenger side. That’s one and
That’s the other all right
Now we only have two more bolts on the top of the transmission and we can’t see them on the passenger side
So we have to go to the driver’s side in the back and if you look all the way on the top you can see
The bolt head right there and the other bolt which is right next to this bolt
You can’t see it’s on the other side of the transmission, but it’s right next to it. Only a few inches to the side
So there are two ways to get to the two top bolts
The first way is to lower the transmission down a little bit with the jack
So it tilts the motor and tranny backwards and then get a really long
extension with a
universal joint at the end and
We’re gonna slide that extension in and that will allow us to get to both the driver side bolt and the passenger side bolt
but I have another method that works for this car and it’s a lot easier and
The second method is to grab a long ratcheting wrench and get to both of those bolts from the back of the engine bay
So we’re gonna start with the passenger side bolt. Just get that wrench on there and let’s break it free
Perfect. This is way easier than trying to do this from below the car now do the same thing on the driver’s side
Break it free
Unscrew it and remove the bolt. And with this last bolt out all the transmission bolts have been removed
now what I like to do is I like to place them in order and exactly how they came out of the
Transmission that way you stay organized and know which bolts go exactly where so we have our two bottom bolts
We have the three driver side to passenger side and two top bolts
So with all the bolts out now
We could go underneath the car and finally remove the transmission
Now before we go and remove the transmission over the years
there’s a lot of dust buildup inside that bell housing from the clutch and we don’t want to breed that dust in it’s very very
Bad also older clutches could be made with asbestos
So what I like to do is just get some plain water and spray down the inside of the bell housing
This will get a lot of that dust wet, so it doesn’t become airborne the less dust the better
I also recommend that you use a good respirator like this full face respirator has two p100 filters filters out
99% of airborne particles it’ll also protect your eyes and I’ll be sure to link this in the description
You know the right one to get for this job and one more quick tip before we separate the transmission
We want to support the engine if we remove the transmission the engine can tilt backwards or it could tilt forwards and could cause damage
So just use your jacks with a piece of wood to evenly distribute the load on the oil pan and lightly
Jack up the engine. We don’t want to press hard on it. We just want to support it now
we could finally separate the transmission from the engine and I like to use a pry bar to get it started because
Sometimes they could get stuck on there then wiggle the transmission loose a little and pull it straight
Back and again from the other side. I’m using a pry bar to separate it even further now with a little pulling and wiggling
Beautiful the transmission should come right out just like that. So let’s lower it down and we can remove it from under the car
Alright with the transmission removed
now you want to replace the parts that went bad like
This throw out bearing look at how much play is in here. And that was definitely what was making the noise
so we need to replace this with a new one now is also a good time to check for play in the input shaft the
Engine spins this so it’s an important part of the transmission. There should be no play. Oh, man, that’s not good
There shouldn’t be this much play in the input chef
You see how much movement there is up and down inside the side on a good transmission that this wouldn’t budge
So that means that this transmission needs a rebuild
So luckily with the magic of editing out with the old and in with the new so I ended up getting a completely rebuilt transmission
Everything inside of here is brand new and you can see the input shift now has no play at all in it. Perfect
and since I had to remove the transmission to replace the throw out bearing I
Figured now would be a good time to replace the clutch pressure plate flywheel rear main seal and pilot bearing
But I’m not going to cover that in this video
I made an entire video on how to replace a clutch and all these other parts and I’ll be sure to link that video in
The description so you can easily find it
So I’m gonna get all these parts into the car
Good, and now we could go and install the new transmission now the old transmission has a few parts
We need to move over from the old one to the new one and the first thing being this transmission mount
So let’s remove the mounting bracket by removing these two nuts good and then the mount itself is held in with two bolts
So let’s remove those and the mount comes right off now we want to remove the speed sensor located on the side of the transmission
So remove the single bolt holding it in and the sensor should pull right out
so let’s transfer this over to our new transmission remove the plug push the speed sensor in and
Finally snug up the bolt holding this in good now
Let’s install the transmission mount and if you guys remember this transmission mount was shot
I mean look at that came right apart in my hands so out with the old broken mount and in with a nice brand new
One so let’s go get this installed
So screw both bolts by hand and I am using medium strength thread Locker on these threads then we could torque down both of these
bolts to 80
Foot-pounds now add the lower bracket and then that gets torque to 50 foot-pounds
And the last thing we need to do is install our new clutch fork and throw out bearing and that just slides right in
Just like that beautiful now we could go and install the transmission
Now before we go and try to mount the transmission up against the engine what I want to do, there’s a metal support bar
Right here, which might interfere with trying to mount up the transmission
So I’m gonna quickly remove both bolts that hold this in it takes a few seconds and it’ll make our lives so much easier
Now we want to get the transmission in place. So Jack it up
So it’s level with the clutch and the input chef lines up with the pilot bearing hole for my car
I jack up the front of the engine to tilt the motor a little bit like that. It lines up better with the transmission
So the transmission could go straight in now. Here’s an inside view of the installation
You want the input shaft to go through the pressure plate and clutch and push all the way on to the engine like that?
Again, but from the outside we want to line up the transmission and wiggle it as we push the transmission up against the engine mounting
Like that and you want to make sure the transmission is completely seated against the back of the engine
There should be no gap here. You don’t want to put bolts in and tighten the bolts down and close the gap
There should be no gap at all around the entire perimeter of the transmission
so now we could hand tighten all the bolts around the
transmission and on these bolts you want to be sure to use medium strength thread Locker that way the
vibrations of the engine and transmission won’t loosen the bolts while you’re driving and let’s hand tighten the two bolts on the passenger side as
well and
Finally, we could hand tighten the two bolts at the top of the transmission
Here’s the first top bolt and let’s get that in there hand tight and here’s the second top bolt again
Get it in there hand tight and since we’re up here, let’s torque down the first bolt
But there isn’t room for a torque wrench, so I’m just gonna do it by feel and it should be about 46 foot-pounds
Good now we could use a torque wrench and torque the rest of these bolts in a crisscross pattern
246 foot-pounds don’t tighten the bolts right next to the last one instead tighten the bolt across from the last one
So, you know the transmission is mounting to the engine evenly and we’ll finish up here with the other top bolt
Alright with those main transmission bolts torqued. Now we have these two less bolts
We need to tighten down which hold the bottom of the separator plate to the transmission
So tighten these down but don’t over tighten them because they’re threaded into the aluminum bell housing
Good and we’re almost done. All that’s left is just installing everything that we removed. I’m gonna quickly go through this
It’s gonna be nice and easy. There’s gonna be a little bit of a difference because we do have to add transmission fluid
I’ll show you how to do that. It’s really simple
So let’s get all this done so we could go for our test drive
now before we go and lower this transmission jack
We want to install the two bolts holding in the transmission mounts to the rear. The transmission doesn’t fall
And so I don’t have to mention it over and over basically all the bolts that I’m going to be installing are gonna have medium
Strength thread Locker on them because it’s gonna prevent those vibrations from loosening it up
It also prevents the threads from getting rusty
if you live in an area where there’s a lot of rust so let’s get these two bolts in and
Then torque them down to around 40 foot-pounds now, we can remove the transmission jack
So let’s lower it down all the way and remove it now. Let’s install the front
k-member brace that we took off to make it easier to install the transmission and torque these two bolts down to 50 foot-pounds and since
We’re here. We might as well install the clutch cable. So take the cable and fish it through the hole
Then grab the retaining clip and push it into the slot
Now use a pry bar to push the clutch fork forward so we can mount the cable into the clutch fork like that
Finally, we could add the clutch fork cover and tighten down the bolt that holds it in next
Let’s reattach our wiring harness start by pushing the clips into the mounting holes on the transmission
Then we could attach the reverse light sensor pigtail by pushing it in place one of my plastic retaining Clips broke
So I’m going to be using a zip tie to hold the wire to the transmission which will work perfectly now
let’s bring the rest of the harness to the back of the transmission and connect the pigtail to the speed sensor and with that our
Wiring harness is in place. So let’s go install the starter
So get the starter mounted in place into the bell housing and then hand tighten the bottom bolt first
Then the side bolt and finally the top bolt
Unfortunately, there’s not enough room to get to the top or bottom bolts with a torque wrench
So instead I’m gonna be using a regular wrench and these bolts get tightened down to 18 foot pounds for the middle bolt
we can reach it with a long extension so that could get torqued down and for the last bolt we could use a wrench to
Get back here and tighten it
Good and one last thing we need to install the mounting bracket plate for the oxygen sensor pigtail
So get that tightened in place and then the pigtail pushes right in okay with our starter installed now
Let’s go and install our driveshaft before you insert it into the transmission
You want to clean the end of the driveshaft make sure there’s no dirt or dust on it
And then I like to lubricate it with a little bit of transmission fluid just so it doesn’t go and dry when installing the driveshaft
Push it in as you turn a little to get the splines to line up to the transmission like that
Then we can install the rear of the driveshaft to the differential line up the bolt holes and let’s get a bolt in to hold
It in place now, we’re gonna hand tighten these two bolts and then turn the driveshaft and hand tighten the other two bolts
Unfortunately a torque wrench doesn’t fit in here
So I’m going to tighten it with a regular wrench and all four of these bolts have to get torqued to about 95 pants
So that’s pretty much as hard as I could pull on this good now
We could rotate to the other two and tighten these two down as well good and with all four bolts tightened down
Our driveshaft is in now. Let’s go and add our transmission fluid and to do that
There is a fill plug at the top of our transmission right there
so let’s get a ratchet on here to break that fill plug loose and then remove the fill plug and
Now we could add our transmission fluid
So what you would do is you get your hose you’d stick it in the fill hole and you pump that fluid into the fill
Hole until it starts coming out now. This could take a while, but I have an even faster method
That’s a lot easier and that method is to fill it using the hole where your shifter goes
So put a funnel where the shifter goes and you could fill it from right here
Just be careful not to spill it because we don’t want to get our interior dirty and look at how much easier this is
Now, I’m not sure if you notice but my car’s transmission takes automatic transmission fluid. It takes a little over three quarts
so make sure you check your owners manual to see the specific type of fluid you need and the amount of fluid you’ll need so
On the fourth bottle. I’m gonna keep an eye on the fill hole and once fluid starts coming out
The transmission is full good now put the fill plug back in
Clean up that dripping fluid and then tighten the plug
So it’s snug and with our transmission filled now we can move on to installing the exhaust
So let’s lift the front of the exhaust into place
Then torque each of the four nuts down to thirty foot pounds for a good seal and don’t forget to connect the two oxygen sensors
Up here and these rear two oxygen sensors back here
good now we can finish up by getting the bolts in the rear of the exhaust and
Tighten these down so it clamps the exhaust together for a leak-free seal same with the other pipe
Make sure you tighten the bolts evenly so no exhaust seams leak out beautiful. Now, let’s go install the shifter
So with the gasket in place mount the shifter onto the transmission and tighten down all four bolts in a crisscross pattern
This will evenly seat the shifter now. Let’s add our shifter boot and
tighten these four bolts to hold it in place
Then we could add the shifter handle tighten those two nuts. So it’s secure and then add our interior shift trim
So that snaps in place. And finally the last thing to do is to screw the shift knob on
Beautiful now we could get our negative battery cable connect it to the battery
And tighten the clamp so it’s secure. All right, and with that everything is connected and put back together
Now we have one more thing we need to do and that is get the car back on the ground
So remove the jack stands in the front and I’m gonna lower the front tires on two ramps
Otherwise the front bumper will be tilted so low I wouldn’t be able to remove the jack now
we see jack up the rear of the car remove both of these jack stands and
Lower the car down to the ground
With our old transmission out and our new transmission in we are on the most
Exciting part of the job and that is testing out our new transmission so clutch in. We’re in neutral. Let’s start her up
She’s starting right up so let’s go for a test drive
For our test drive. We want to go through each gear nice and easy
Make sure there’s no grinds make sure it goes into each gear
And this already feels so much better than the old transmission
Now once we’re in Top Gear we’ll downshift to make sure your rep match
The gear should pop right in and this feels beautiful now for the first 500 miles
You don’t want to drive hard. You want to break in the transmission with regular driving. Don’t do burnouts
No dropping the clutch
No hard shifting that way our new transmission the clutch the flywheel all that stuff could break in properly and they’ll last a good long
All right, so that is how you remove replace and install a transmission in your car or truck in this case
This was a rear-wheel drive setup
But if you’re wondering it’s very similar for a front-wheel drive setup instead of removing a drive shaft. You’re gonna be removing axle shafts
otherwise very very similar
Also if you have an automatic again, very similar
You’re gonna have a torque converter in here that’s bolted up to a flywheel or flex plate
You’re gonna have to unbolt that before you drop the transmission. You might also have cooler lines going to the transmission
Otherwise again very similar. And from this video you should be able to replace it
Hopefully this video was helpful. If it was remember to give it a thumbs up
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definitely consider subscribing
For more how-to videos like this and as always all the tools and products I used in this video are linked in the description

100 Replies to “How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)”

  1. To answer the most common questions in the comments section:
    1.) Quality videos like this take a lot of time to produce. This and the next took me over 300hrs.
    2.) Follow me on Instagram "ChrisFixit" for daily updates and tips and tricks.
    3.) The exhaust on the car is the performance exhaust, just used on the track.
    4.) The speedometer is fine… it spun all the way around at the last drift event and I havent had a chance to take the gauge cluster out and push it back to the other side of the peg.
    5.) The other red Mustang is from this video:

  2. Hey Chris– I saw you used the diff housing as the rear jack point. The owner's manual for my 2008 Mustang strongly says to not do that.

  3. That moment after you watch a ChrisFix video and go outside ready to tackle a transmission job but end up giving up on the battery terminal.🤭

  4. I had to do this to a 72 Toyota Celica some one told me how to do it and I gave it a shot. I needed a new clutch . Lot easier job on that car , no sensors.

  5. Nice video. Only thing I might add is depending on the car/truck your working on when you disconnect the rear drive shaft some manufacturers recommend you mark it before removing it so it can be installed in the same way.

    Can you do a auto trans rebuild? Lol always wanted to learn how to do one.

  6. Quick qustion: hope anyone still answers on these old videos. I have signs of a bad main seal. The questions is: Is there any risk in removing an automatic transmission? And reinstalling it? My transmission has a Torque Converter (AUDI A8 D2 AAH Engine, no quattro). Are there any big mistakes that can be made that will destroy the transmission? Like missaligment…or anything like this?
    PS: Can I do this without touching the transmission fluid? (it's a sealed unit…no distick and no service was ever done)

  7. Great advise about using good quality jackstands; I knew a fellow who was killed when his Chevy Nova fell on him while working under his car which was supported by old cinder blocks, etc. It's not how much safety gear costs, it's a matter of what is it worth.

  8. Hey Chris, I'm planning on fixing a Rear main seal on a 2004 rav4 (all wheel drive). Does your video still apply, or will there be differences given the AWD? Awesome videos BTW!

  9. I only started doing small jobs on my car a year or 2 ago and have been progressing to bigger tasks. I watch several videos on all subjects but I always make sure to get the ChrisFix version in because he goes in depth and does it correctly. He doesn't only explain how to just perform the task, but also why, as well as how to recognize bad parts. And on top of that he explains what should be cleaned and greased and what not. The job is complete, or at least it seems like that to me. Just like his changing spark plugs video. Simple, but he was the only one mentioning to blow out the spark plug holes before taking them out and that just makes sense. It's things like that I appreciate. I'm by no means a mechanic and I'm not aiming to be one. But I have learned a lot about cars and gained confidence working on them as well as estimating costs. Thanks Chris!

  10. Common problem when people sit in gear with clutch pedal pressed in puts unnecessary load on release bearing. If your at the lights or stationary into neutral every time.

  11. I wrench on a lot of things myself, I have changed head gaskets and done timing belts and chains for myself, but I was always afraid of dropping a transmission. I will get a transmission jack from the money I would need to give a mechanic and next time I need to do something I'll do it myself. You are so helpful!

  12. Chris probably spends a few thousand dollars for a few videos because of all the parts and tools he gets. Input shaft is loose? BOOM new transmission

  13. Hey chris I have a 2013 Nissan Sentra sr and I've learned that the transmission not really good I wanted to know is there anything I can do to extend the life of my transmission? Or any upgrade parts I can put on

  14. Shout out to Chris FIx. These videos are dense, he wastes no time getting you through the steps and getting things done. So efficient and he is entertaining as well. Outstanding production quality on these videos, both audio and video. Also a shout out to those of us who have done this by sliding out the tranny without a jack, dropping it into your chest, then rolling over to set it on the ground. I'm not saying it's smart, but…. Get a jack folks, make life easier! After I watched this video I went outside, checked the oil in my truck. It was good. I went back inside.

  15. Hey Chris! Thanks so much for everything you’ve done and are still doing for us all. You are a real source of inspiration and wisdom for all people who work on their cars. If I may ask something now; you just explained how to change a transmission but this was for a real wheel drive car. Could you please show how to do the same thing but for a front wheel drive this time? And a hydraulic one of these, like the civic please 😅 just so we all know how to change and maintain all types of transmissions and clutches.. thanks!!

  16. I have a 99 dodge Dakota sport 5 speed had to drop the transmission to replace the throw out bearing now I'm having trouble getting the transmission back in the truck I've got the shaft in but can't get it all the way flush with the engine… any advice?

  17. one question, with a new belhousing, why didnt you clock it to make sure you didnt need offset dowel pins or to adjust the trans to the bellhousing?

  18. I’ma tell a story ok so when I was more younger then I am now my dad wanted me to drive stick like that’s what he wanted me to drive and when we moved out of my house my truck broke in the middle of moving so my god father has this 1989 Chevy sport it was a classic anyway it was a stick so my dad let me drive it threw town back to we’re we lived to we’re we moved and this truck was not taken care good so when I got the hang of drive if it it was are last time gone down to pick up some stuff on the way there on the hwy as I was getting on and as I was gonna go into 5 i couldn’t it just didn’t want to go in so thought it was f up because Reverse was broke as well because you had to really tightly hold it down so the stick when you’d try to go in 5 it just swing all the way out to the side we’re the passenger would usually have there feet then we went down the road the hole stick just came out but the good thing was I was in 4 so when we got to are old house I had to take off the shifter and boot but the think is I had no tools but it was Phillips head so lucky me the kid I was always took tools from my dad and in my room I had so took it off and the shifter just came off like that because it was being hanged on with the little things I don’t know what there called but yeah that’s the day I learned how to drive stick

  19. You're the man. Loved the video. I wondered aloud why you didn't mark the driveshaft position at the rear diff. Not hatin', just watched too many vids and have seen it done. Anyway, keep up the great work. Your vids are top-notch and your hard work shows in the quality.

  20. 23:30 Put a little bit of high temperature bearing grease on the transmission rear shaft teeth to lubricate the drive shaft when it moves in & out.

  21. Haven’t you thought about making a video on replacing the transmission in your Windstar yet? It would be the perfect vehicle to use as an example to replace a front wheel drive and/or automatic transmission. It would make a good video.

  22. Hey Chris, when buying a car with an automatic transmission, planning to immediately change the transmission oil after purchase, can you give me an estimated recommended max milage to purchase at so that the transmission won't start slipping after the oil is changed. Thanks chris. Tony

  23. Wish i knew someone that can fix mine like this i got a 2005 mustang wont drive in 4th or reverse only 1st 2d 3rd it’s automatic v8 4.6L

  24. I am a new subscriber here, thank you for your hard work, dedication and work ethics. I have a question regarding the torquing of bolts. Where did you get the torque specifications for each bolt? Thank you and have a wonderful day.

  25. 9:15 before removing drive shaft mark it with a pen or sharpie to reinstall in same orientation

    Changing the orientation can lead to vibration form u joints then you have to go under and re align it it’s original orientation

    Ask how I know

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