Electric Motor Capacitor Installation

Electric Motor Capacitor Installation

a little update on the cement mixer
motor so here I removed the Bell thanks to Dean over at the Ayr Cave his channel
and I’ll put a link to his channel but he took he has a motor very similar to
this a little bit older same size same frame configuration
the only difference actually was it was it has plain bearings not roller
bearings but he took his apart have a dead mouse in it and have to clean it
out also but his capacitors he had two capacitors in his similar looking to
this but had to label still so he knew what capacitance was in his motor and
and I guess is the capacitance for this motor is the same now he had two
capacitors in his motors and my motor has that same setup is that too that you
could mount two capacitors so probably mine might have had two capacitors at
this that I at construction also may be but they may have changed it to one
capacitor purchased two new capacitors so that there this the same size as his
two capacitors so I had to say capacitance because I don’t know what
this is so I’ve hooked them up in parallel I
made a little extra clip here mounted them in and we’ll hook them up and put
this back together and test it now I’ve been asked why what what does do
the capacitors do in the motor well this is a capacitor start motor
there are basically two sets of windings in here and whether the capacitors do is
cause a 90 degree phase shift of the incoming power now we’re gonna we’re
going to run it here on 110 or 115 120 volt or my power here is 120 volts single-phase power and what that does is
the incoming power to the motor on the starting windings which the capacitors
in hook to will be 90 degrees out of phase with the run windings and causing
a the the AC causes a pulsation it’s it’s it’s continually changing positive
negative right so you have these two pulsating fields magnetic fields that
are 90 degrees out of phase and that’s what causes a torque action for the
motor to pull and that’s what the capacitors cause is that 90 degrees out
of phase action of the incoming AC now if you want more information on that
there’s tons of stuff on the internet lots of great dev videos on it showing
you demonstration of this and and far more extensive description I’m not going
to go into all that right now you know check on the internet check YouTube
there’s tons of stuff out there but that’s the basics of it is the out of
phase causing the the torque action of the cult windings
so let’s hook us back together and give it a test well I have mine in here
mounted in here hooked up in parallel and I had to make a little extra clip
for that and these capacitors have nice
quarter-inch lugs on them to have a quick connects I would temporary wired wired together
here and they for you turning you know let’s give it a test there we go
run smooth starts quick hopefully it has plenty of torque this size motor has
lots of torque being just a capacitor start type motor
this is a big motor big windings lots of magnetic field there now it’s ready to
go one thing I’m gonna do is I’m gonna install a drum switch for controlling
the forward and reverse this is a reversible motor and it the way the
mixer works it would be nice to be able to reverse the drum and so we’re gonna
put it in so we can run into both directions

26 Replies to “Electric Motor Capacitor Installation”

  1. We watched Dean share the General Electric fix and share it with you. He was nice to on this a great collaboration.
    Thank you for this update on the build like the red color.
    Lance & Patrick.

  2. Something you may want to consider, Randy. When I open up a motor, I write the bearing numbers and cap descriptors (if single phase) on the peckerhead cover or body of the motor. The model number of the centrifugal switch wouldn't hurt either. Just a thought, Rollie

  3. What was the capacitance value of the capacitors you used? I have an old grinder that the capacitor is bad in and there's no markings on it.

  4. I have a much newer mixer and use it a lot. I have never wanted to reverse it though. What reason would you want to reverse yours for? Me jokingly, maybe your mixing blades are long, and reversing it will cause it to act like the big boys and the concrete will pour out in a controlled manor 😉

  5. The voltage/current specs in description suggest that the max power of the motor is almost 2hp. If I remember correctly 1hp = 750 watts. 12.6amp X 120 volts = 1512 watts (2hp). That extra power should be a good thing for the old mixer. The restoration looks great!

  6. Randy I think one of the first things you need to do is get rid of that plastic handle on your drum switch that looks terrible

  7. Nice work Randy! But I noticed you did not install the mouse in your motor like Dean had in his.
    Like the color, should make that mixer run great again.

  8. Good for you! You could have checked the capacitance of the capacitor if you had a multimeter with the capacitance check function.

  9. Thanks for the info on the 90 degree phasing of the starter windings. I just knew that the capacitors ran the starter windings before.

  10. It's unusual to have cap's being able to be inside – so often the mounting is external. Nice to see yours fit in.
    Motor runs real sweet. 🙂

  11. Those big cement mixers you get stuck behind on the way to the store have reversible power takeoffs for the drum. One rotation direction mixes, the other direction ejects the mixed concrete.

  12. Nice upgrade, Randy. Should keep things good for a long time, probably as long as you will mix up any concrete…
    Thanks for sharing.

  13. Came here from Scoutcrafter's channel. Look forward to your content. I do a ton of tool lot purchases if you ever get a chance check it out. Thanks

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