Cyberdrive Automotive – Instructional – 4.0 SOHC Mustang Clutch Replacement

Cyberdrive Automotive – Instructional – 4.0 SOHC Mustang Clutch Replacement

In this video, I’m gonna be going over
How I replaced the clutch in my 4.0 Mustang and I’ll be covering all the bolt sizes and various things you need to keep an
Eye out for while this video is car specific
It will give you a much better idea of what you’re facing
If you’re considering changing the clutch in here come my buddy andrew is more than kind enough to allow me to you as a shops
Lift and transmission jack to do the job you don’t have access to that kind of equipment the job is still entirely possible
You’re just gonna have to struggle a little bit more and it’s gonna take longer
Lastly this video is targeting people who are wanting to replace their clutch themselves so I expect you to have some mechanical
Experience if you’re intimidated by changing your own oil then this video may teach you some things
But it shouldn’t act as a step-by-step, and you’re better off paying someone else to do it for you
With that being said here’s a list of all the tools you’re going to need to do this job properly and
Let’s begin so these not 5/8 wrench
So you’re gonna need to do the exhaust hangers these are 13 millimeter bolts all the way around there’s one right here
That’s really hard to get to there’s three mounts, There’s this one this one
And then this one and then once you do that
Your exhaust will come free and then it’s a matter of a driveshaft
Next you’re gonna need to do the 12 millimeter 12 point bolts for your u joints. I put a screwdriver in a hole, right
There to block it so it can’t turn and I need a breaker bar because the electric impact isn’t strong enough to break these
and then
Loosen them up
Do that to both sides
The driveshaft is heavy and awkward if you drop it
you can easily damage it an extra set of hands to catch a driveshaft when it comes loose is very helpful
Once the driveshaft is out make sure you put all your bolts back where they came from but 18 millimeter
for the transmission mount and then a half-inch or whatever the metric equivalent is for that and
Then this comes out and then once the mounts out put your bolts back in where they belong
Make sure your transmissions
Supported, and then you’re gonna need to do the two 15 millimeter bolts
on the header collector to the rest of the exhaust and you have to do at the both sides
once you get the exhaust pieces out, and I was very unfortunate enough to decide that my car wanted to break the bolt
right here, so i get to deal with that,
that’s going to be a fun one
looks like a stud of some kind and yay
And then the other side came clean, and you can see this one is not broke because this one actually is good quality
undo your shift linkage. This is a thirteen millimeter, and then up here is a ten millimeter
So once you get the shift linkage undone, then you need the speed sensor
And I’m not sure what that was and then you need to take the starter out and then the bellhouse
And then the transmission will come out
you will want to do the two 1 0 millimeter bolts hold the starter on and then there’s a
ten millimeter and
a thirteen millimeter for the wires on your starter ten thirteen and then
The starter comes right out so in order to get these top ones you got to get a little crafty
And hope that you have the right swivel sockets
The Bell House bolts and half inch I
Forgot to record that part
Might need a pry
There we go that should slowly.. wait, no we got to do the hydro line
You need a hook
These are
12 millimeter eat orcs
Sixpoint I didn’t take the floor I didn’t do a video of the flywheel or the pressure plate
but those were
I don’t know
So you’re gonna have to do the pressure plate bolts put your ten millimeter, I think there’s like eight of them
They go around there you want to do in a star pattern as you loosen it
And then it’ll come off the clutch disc will come out the pressure plate will come off
and then you do the twelve millimeter e-torx all the way for the flywheel and
Then the flywheel comes off
And there you have it
Make sure that you hand thread each of these first before you use any sort of
Electric or power tool to help zip them down
Make sure you clean the surface of the flywheel before you apply the pressure plate. You don’t want any dirt
To get stuck there
or oil
can never be too clean
So you tighten these in a star pattern using the same socket that you removed them with
You tighten them in a star pattern
And you do 25 foot-pounds
All the way around and then 52-foot pounds all the way around and then
That’s on there and make sure you keep this clean
Put the pilot bearing in the socket and gently tap her in
And you just slowly tap the pilot bearing in
I can’t stress this enough you got to make sure that the surface your flywheel is clean
Might as well clean everything since you never see it
Same deal with the pressure plate you want to clean the surface that touches the flywheel third up touching the flywheel
wana gonna clean the surface that grips on to the clutch
You need a clean smooth mating surface free of debris and oil and contaminants
Then you can put the pressure plate on
If you put the clutch in backwards you’re gonna get to do this job a second time
The thick side of the clutch goes towards the pressure plate side and not the flywheel
The instructions that come with your clutch will explain this
Make sure that your clutch alignment tool is all the way into the pilot bearing and
Then you can properly and they can begin to properly torque these bolts
The sequence is 15 foot-pounds then 25 and then 33 to finish it is what I read
And then you do it in the start pattern just like you would tires
And then once that’s torque to spec and make sure use lock tight on these and the flywheel bolts
you can take the alignment tool out and
Then work on getting the transmission back again
So I didn’t really show a lot of the putting back together procedure
ahh fucking lens
So, it’s done. I didn’t show much of the procedure of putting it back together because it’s
in reverse order of taking it apart. I had a lot of issues with getting the transmission to line back up and fought it and
What ended up working is (don’t do this)
is slowly tightening the bolts around and
Using that to squish it together
and I do not recommend that you’re gonna have to fight with it and that’s probably the hardest part is remating the transmission to
the engine and then
Once that’s done
You just reconnect o2 sensors you do the exhaust you do the transmission mount and everything just goes right back together
And then when you get finished and you go to
The inside of your car and your clutch pedal is all the way to the floor. You’re probably gonna panic
Just as much as I did so what you’re gonna have to do is grab the clutch and manually
jerk it off over and over and then eventually it’ll get clutch feel and now I
Have a clutch
Because I jerked it off and it’s happy
So, that’s it you have any questions leave them in the comments below, and if you found this video helpful then consider subscribing
Thanks for watching

5 Replies to “Cyberdrive Automotive – Instructional – 4.0 SOHC Mustang Clutch Replacement”

  1. Nice video I'm thinking of changing my clutch on my 4.0. I have problems shifting from 4th to 5th gear at over 65MPH there is a grind. But when shifting from 4th to 5th under 65MPH its ok.. all other gears shift perfect could it possibly be the clutch?

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