Car Repair Marathon

Car Repair Marathon


hello I have to do some work in my car today and that’s why we’re going to make a trip into the world of the automobile presenting my 1996 Opel Corsa B Grand Slam Edition and mint-green now I know what you’re asking yourself what kind of girl can a guy get Germany driving a car like that well the answer is simple same kind as anywhere else being the non-existing one but so what no reason not to have some kind of pride of ownership isn’t it this car is operational and I drive it on a daily basis but there are still a lot of things that are in dire need of maintenance here a few of which I will tackle today and here is what you will see in the course of this video we will take a look under the hood of the Corsa and check the fluids we will also take a quick look under the hood of the old Mercedes that is sitting in my garage after that I would change the course of tires since the code time of the gear is finally over I will also show you how I improvise the key that I need to remove the summer tires a few month ago we will then go under the car and check the exhaust system which I will then most probably have to replace furthermore I will also replace the old alternator belt with a new one and remove some rust and apply some paint maybe I will even find some time to talk about some miscellaneous electronic stuff concerning the car in order to take a look under the hood it first must be unlocked from the inside some of you sure know a whole lot about cars but others may not know as much so in order to get some common ground let’s name the different parts that we can see here and talk about their purpose through this plastic pipe fresh air is sucked in from the front of the car flowing to the air filter through a hose warm air is sucked in from the outside of the exhaust manifold the exhaust manifold itself is made of cast iron but it is covered by an aluminium sheet and can thus not be seen on this picture the aluminium she it serves the purpose of catching some of the warm ambient air that happens to stream around the manifold which is heated up by the exhaust fumes flowing through it filtered air is then leaving the air filter and flows to the carburetor where it is needed to create an air fuel mixture that mixture is then being led through the intake manifold into the for individual combustion chambers of the engine the intake manifold again is here hidden from sight the engine is a four-cylinder gasoline engine with a displacement of 1.2 litres generating a breathtaking maximum power of 45 horsepower hidden under this black plastic cover is the so called timing belt it is a toothed rubber belt that synchronizes the rotation of the camshaft with that of the crankshaft somewhat hidden from side sits the alternator in the alternator belt which will later take a closer look at charged by the alternator is the car’s battery which is sitting up here another key part of the basic electrical system of the car are the spark plugs and the D is ignition module which supplies the plugs with exactly timed high voltage pulses allowing properly timed ignition inside the individual combustion chambers here we find the radiator which is a heat exchanger for the coolant that is pumped through the engine block in order to prohibit overheating this tank up here is called the coolant reservoir next to it we find the so-called brake booster its purpose is to reduce the amount of pedal pressure that you have to generate in order to activate your brakes up here in the corner the so-called windshield washer reservoir can be found notice that this is a comparatively simple car that misses some parts which you will find in even cheap modern cars like a power steering and air conditioning system the good thing about a simple vehicle is though that it is easy to understand and to repair all repairs you will see today will be performed on my Opel Corsa but there is another car to be found on this property and other than the Corsa it is a very special a’dreea car that we will now take a look at just for the hell of it this car is not mine but belongs to a friend it’s been sitting here for at least 25 years and all I know about it is basically from my own research the body has a lot of rust while the interior is still in comparatively good shape for all I can say it is a 1970 or 1971 Mercedes 280 se so let’s look under the hood what we have here is a 2.8 liter 6-cylinder engine called a straight-6 and from some online research and quite sure it is a Mercedes Benz M 130 engine capable of generating up to 160 horsepower even at first glance we can see obvious differences to the Opel Corsa just for example the intake and exhaust manifolds are here mounted on the same side of the engine other than with the chorus are the motor is relying on a more old fashioned ignition system instead of the ignition module a so-called distributor is distributing the high voltage pulses generated by the ignition coil to the spark plugs but ok that old car is another topic so let’s get back to the Corsa and the plans I made earlier the first thing to do now is to check the fluids first I pull out the dipstick and clean its tip with a piece of cloth when you do that be sure not to use an overly dirty your fuzzy rag or otherwise you might unwantedly introduce that dirt into your system the dipstick shows that there clearly is enough engine oil but it’s dark color also reveals that it is already quite old this tag tells me though that I can go for another four thousand kilometres before the next oil change is due there still is enough fluid in the coolant reservoir as well the same is true for the brake fluid the windshield wiper reservoir is nearly empty I’m quite sure that it is leaking since I refilled it not too long ago so I will definitely have to take care of that but other more essential components have to be repaired first with the fluids checked it’s time to change the tires it’s not a very exciting process to watch them therefore I won’t cover this in detail I placed a jack under the car and relieved the wheel of most of the weight I start to loosen the bowls while the wheel is still burdened by the car so that it still stands firmly and doesn’t spin through with the four balls just sitting loosely I lift the wheel from the ground take the screws out and put the summer tire in place I then apply some oil to the balls before I screw them back in more interesting is maybe what I had to do when I removed these aluminium rims a few months ago when the winter was coming I had bought the car only shortly before with the rims already installed now it had started to snow and it was about time to put on the winter tires when I realized that I didn’t know how to remove these round lids in the middle of the rims which cover the bolts beneath a special key was needed to unlock that lid and access the bolts since I did not own such a key however I had to improvise and here is what I did I took a piece of round steel and heated it up with a gas torch until it was red-hot at one spot I then bent the steel to a 90-degree angle I did this because I wanted to create a lever I had no idea how much force would be needed to open the lids that’s why I made it this big the idea was to form the tip of the steel in such a way that it would fit the lock in the middle of the rims for that I first punched marked the tip and drilled a hole into it I then made some marks with a pencil and cut the tip into shape using an angle grinder then I could use the improvised key to loosen the old bolts unscrew them and finally remove the lids making the bolts beneath accessible at last so okay with the flu is checked and the tires change it’s time to come to the actual repair jobs the most severe of which I expect to be the exhaust system for that we will take a look under the car but before we do that let me explain to you how the exhaust system of this car looks like in theory so that all of you will understand what you will see when I will perform the actual repair job exhaust is coming from the combustion chambers and is flowing through the exhaust manifold and to the catalytic converter both the manifold the pipe in the converters housing are made of thick cast iron and steel the manifold and the converters pipe are also coupled together with Springs adding even more ruggedness to this part of the system fitted on the output side of the catalytic converter is the middle silencer also known as the resonator welded to the end of the silencer we find the exhaust pipe on which the rear silencer or muffler is sitting on its output side a short steel tube called the tailpipe protrudes from under the car while the catalytic converter and the other front parts of the exhaust system are rugged and strong the resonator exhaust pipe and muffler are made of cheap and thin materials typically prone to rust and that’s the reason why I will most probably have to replace those parts the good thing is though that these parts are not welded together but are held in place by steel clamps that can be replaced as well the entire system is furthermore suspended on so called rubber hangers which allow the silencers to swing somewhat freely under the car okay so much for the theory let’s take a look at the real thing in order to operate on the exhaust system I will step down into an old pit that luckily exists in front of the garage for that I remove the steel plates covering the pit after that I put a letter inside with that being done I park the car over it in such a way that the exhaust system is easily accessible the tailpipe in the rear end of the muffler are already heavily corroded the front end of the resonator where it connects to the catalytic converter doesn’t look any better while the resonators housing itself looks okay the exhaust pipe is in miserable condition it has holes all over the place you this hole at the input side of the rear silencer is so big that it makes me wonder if any exhaust fumes will even go through the muffler anymore these parts most definitely must be replaced against new ones in the meanwhile I have ordered these new parts which have already arrived the entire set including resonator exhaust pipe muffler hangers and clamps cost only 50 euros free of shipping this is one of the benefits of driving a model that has been produced millions of times parts are available achieved so it’s time to get the old ones out and the new ones in the first thing to do would be to remove the muffler but for curiosity’s sake I want to try if I can unscrew the nuts that are sitting on the front clamp holding the resonator and the catalytic converter first I want to do this to use my new socket wrench that I recently bought thanks to my generous patreon supporters but more about patreon later as I imagined the clamp was so heavily corroded that it simply snapped but that doesn’t really matter all that matters is that it came off so now it is time to remove the muffler but the second clamp that holds the exhaust pipe and muffler together is so corroded that there is nearly no chance to loosen the nut sitting on it but since the exhaust pipe has to go anyway I simply cut it through with an angle grinder circumventing that problem after spraying the rear rubber hangers with some oil I can easily pull out the old muffler and throw it away if I could I would now simply pull off the resonator from the catalytic converter but due to all the rust it still sits super tight even with a clamp gone in order to access the joint between resonate and converter I will have to reposition the car though in order to drive without a muffler I suspend the exhaust pipe with a piece of old wire under the car by the way here you can see that the engine has been losing quite some oil not a good sign but fairly typical with old cars like this one even now that I have direct access to the front end of the exhaust pipe I cannot pull it off the converter it simply sits too tight therefore I decided to cut the pipe widen it by force and then pull it off I again apply some oil to the hangers and I pull off the resonator and remove it from the car you with that being done I use some old stones to hold the catalytic converter in place for now next I remove the old hangars and replace them by new ones you then I remove some of the rust from the rear end of the catalytic converter as good as I can before I place the new resonator under the car again I suspend its rear end with the old wires with all that in place I connected two parts and pull the resonator on the new rubber hangers at the same time it might look easy in this video but this was a major battle and I needed to apply a lot of force to get this done before I will reposition the car again and placed a new clamp over the joint but for now only very loosely now the rear hangers have to be replaced for that I have to remove these old rusty retainers and pull off the hangers and with the new ones in place the muffler can be installed and it is connected to the exhaust pipe and the clamp is fastened with my new socket wrench the same is now done to the front clamp with that being done the new system is installed and it’s time for a little test drive to see if it all holds in place well it all holds and sounds fine no strange noises to be heard okay so with the exhaust system fixed it’s time to take care of the next issue while changing the tires I got a glimpse on the alternator belt and saw that it was in very poor shape therefore I already ordered a replacement part the alternator sits down here and is not easy to work on like this hence I will now remove some parts of the air filtering system now the alternator can be worked on easily to get off the belt I have to loosen this lengthy bolt here which puts tension on the belt the space is too confined for even the smaller of the sock adventures that I have bought I have also bought a halfway decent set of combination wrenches though that is coming into action here for the first time I will remove the bolt entirely so that I can do some maintenance on it later with a tension relieved I can take out the old alternator belt and here you can clearly see that it has seen better days the new belt cost only 7 euros and was even made in Germany so there is no reason not to replace it down in the basement I remove the rust from the threads of the boat and apply some ballast all to it and I do the same thing with another smaller boat that is also part of the same mechanism after that I reinstall the bolts and apply tension to the new belt the new belt should not be overstressed though it should sit tight but still loose enough so that you can twist it around to one quarter easily with the alternator say it again i reassemble the part of the air filtering system and I start the engine to see if it’s all running well you okay so with that issue out of the way I can proceed with the next step and that is to remove some rust there are several spots that I need to take care of earlier later but the front of the hood is certainly the worst of them so what I do first is to remove loose parts with a wire brush and then I send off some of the paint leverage Lee until I reach there metal both steps are done on both sides of the hood then their metal is washed dried and masked with some paper and some tape I just use what I have lying around then I spray some primer onto the surfaces after the primer has dried I apply some mint green paint onto it now doing it this way with an ordinary brush is of course not the way to go if you want to restore some valuable old-timer but for stopping the rust on an old cheapo like this one it will suffice it won’t look pretty but at least it’s the original shade of green there are other rust spots around the car but I don’t have the time to take care of all of them at once but there is one little heck that I still like to do before I call it day I recently bought a new phone and I don’t have a charger that I can use while I’m driving but what I have is this 12 volt 5 volt buck converter that is acting as a charger for my navigation system in order to use it for my phone I cut this wire in half and insert a USB jack to it and of course I also add a USB plug to the wire that connects to the navigation system now I can use the old charger for both the system and the phone the only thing that you really have to pay attention to is to connect the signal lines of the USB to ground otherwise most phones will not go into charging mode even though +5 volt is present if you want to know more about what I did to my car stereo here then you can find a link to the corresponding heck in the video description if you like my videos and want to support me you can either make a one-time donation via PayPal or pledge on patreon you can find links concerning both in the video description and talking about patreon I want to say a big thank you to all my supporters it’s really great that my first goal has been reached within a single day I have already scored several older welding machines on eBay and I wait for them to arrive here so only that you know it that project is in the making but no matter if you are on patreon or not I hope that all of you like this little trip in the automotive world and that I will see you next time as well


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