Brushed vs Brushless motors in Off Road R/C Trucks

Brushed vs Brushless motors in Off Road R/C Trucks

Thanks for tuning in today I’m John
Holmes the owner of Holmes Hobbies and we’re gonna be discussing the aspects of
brushed in brushless motors as it pertains to 2017 we did a video a few
years back and things have changed a little bit technology wise so we figured
it’d be a good time to recap these now what we’re gonna cover in this video is
the performance differences specifically if you are looking for a video regarding
the physical differences between brushed and brushless motors we do already have
another video on that so check out our YouTube channel and look at that if
you’re looking for the physical aspects but this one is going to cover the
performance aspects of brushed and brushless motors we’re also gonna work
through choosing the optimum speed which is gonna be the kV or wind of your motor
depending on your needs and also what style of motor to choose depending on
what you’re doing with your rig and we’re really in the off-road truck
market the rock crawler market so it’s gonna be more specifically tailored to
that style 4×4 truck and it really is about the only market that still uses
brush motors so I think for today is gonna be a pretty good comparison so
let’s start up with the brush motors now brush motors have the widest cost range
in the market right now and this is because you have a lot of ready to run
rigs and even industrial motors that are produced for a fairly low cost and we
have a full range of them from the low cost all the way to the high cost low
cost being our drill master sport motor and the high cost being the pro motors
that we have the hand wells such as the crawl master Pro 550 now the differences
between that is pretty much what the performance differences of the motor are
gonna be so if we look at our least expensive armature this is out of a
trail master sport it has wider laminations so there’s more steel losses
when it turns and it has you know a decent amount of copper on the armature
but it’s machine wound it’s certainly not the the best produced armature but
it does the job for the money very well now if we go up to say the expert line
of motors higher quality thinner laminations is going to be an M 19 tools
there I’m sorry M 19 silicon steel which is just a better electrical steel
essentially and also typically is going to have a higher bonding temperature and
better balancing for that motor and then when we step up to the pro style motors
we’re gonna have the concentric Li wound coils they’re in a nice pattern we fit a
lot more copper in there which gives you better performance more torque more
power and then we also balance with epoxy instead of taking it out of the
armature you can see on this one and I believe on this one on the machine round
versions where they actually take material away from those armatures and
that affects the performance it takes awake torque it takes away efficiency
and it also makes them start up a little bit more unpredictable so for our pro
our hand wound motors we always go with this epoxy balancing is by far the most
predictable and best performing for the task now next up on there the reason why
you would probably want to use is brush motor first off is because it’s a
drop-in replacement for your rig let’s say you just bought a TRX4 for let’s say
you just bought a SCX10 II or many of the other crawlers in the market they’re
going to come with a brush motor more than likely a 35 turn or a 27 turn when
it boils down to it or with the TRX4 it’s a 550 which is a little longer and
it ends up being a 21 turn which is the same speed as a 27 turn it all in all
it’s about the same but if you want to replace one of those a brush motor is
going to be your easiest drop-in bet and any of these brushed motors would drop in
because they’re all brush motors now next up really the biggest advantage on
the brushed motor is the unrivaled low-speed control when you’re in a
sticky situation and you’re transitioning from being stopped
especially when you’re putting uphill or downhill and you give it a little
throttle a brush motor has the brushes dragging on the commutator and it gives
them a nice gentle slope into your throttle whereas a brushless motor has
nothing dragging so as soon as you tell the ESC I’m ready to go it starts
essentially free coasting and so the low speed control is far greater on the
brush motors and that’s really the big advantage that they have besides also
being low-cost now what’s the bad side about a brushed motor you have lower power
density you also have lower torque density and these are both call
by the brushes themselves being in there so it doesn’t really matter you know how
fast the motor goes or what you’re doing the brushes are always going to be the
same size so when you ask for more torque and also have more current going
through the brushes are gonna drop more voltages current goes up and that’s
really your biggest choke point it creates heat it reduces your ability to
produce torque from really any point in the throttle now not to say that they
have too little torque there’s still plenty for rock crawling however it is
the biggest downside to these motors and also just having brushes to replace an
average brushed motor if you’re in a rock crawler maybe you’re gonna get five
hours ten hours 20 hours 50 hours out of a set of brushes if you put that into a
faster rig like let’s say a Slash, Slash 4×4 or something like that a
rebuildable style motor you may only get thirty minutes out of a set of brushes
just because you have that extra amp drawn it going fast
you have just extra load on it and the extra heat being generated for the
brushes it really adds up over time so if you’re looking for a brushed
replacement for a pretty fast rig you’re actually better off going with the
cheaper style replacement just because they don’t produce as much power so the
brushes tend to last longer now if you’re really not into that sort of
maintenance then the brushless motors are gonna be your next bet now the best
thing about the brushless motors in my opinion brushless motors have
essentially an infinite life as long as you don’t overheat them or get them
rusty or otherwise mistreat them your bearings are really about the only wear
point on the motor so your overall life value of the motor the life itself of
the motor is far greater when you only have bearings to wear out and your value
is going to be greater over the long term because you’re not constantly
replacing parts on the motor now they also have a higher efficiency since you
don’t have brushes in the way there is generally it’s about a 10 to 20 percent
efficiency boost it depends of course on the quality of the motors that you’re
using but it’s enough efficiency boost that the run time on a rig is going to
go up quite considerably I’ve experienced some rigs even having twice
the amount of run time when I went to a brushless motor now on the flip side the
have more power and torque density for both the volume of them and the weight
so if you really want to use that extra power your runtime can actually go down
when you switch to brushed motor or brushless motors so that you know you
have kind of have to take that with a grain of salt let’s say you get a faster
brushless motor than your brushed you may not see a runtime increase but if
your speeds are identical and you don’t change your driving style the brushless
motor is going to have a little bit of an advantage there because of the
efficiency now what is the downside to the brushless motor it doesn’t have that
many downsides because of the efficiency in the run time however the biggest
thing is the lack of low speed control and it’s because it doesn’t have the
brushes dragging whenever you’re getting out of that drag brake mode and you’re
going into a rolling or a throttle mode it just it goes basically and that
transition from technically transitioning from a deacon torque to a
sliding loss in the motor is just not as consistent with a brushless motor now
having said that the brushless motors that I have designed over the years are
specifically to be as good as a brushed motor so if you’re looking at other
brands you’ll typically find the brushless is nowhere near as good as a
brush motor but with ours we’ve had feedback from customers where they
really couldn’t tell a big difference and maybe it’s their driving style the
rig weight or the gearing that’s masking that a little bit but we have done our
best to at least get it as close as we can to a brushed motor nonetheless the
brushless motor just doesn’t have that good low-speed control it just really
isn’t quite there now the other you know downside to the
brushless system is the cost the motors themselves can be more
expensive they typically are but you also have to have a brushless speed
controller and if you haven’t ready to run rig it didn’t come with that and so
you need to upgrade the entire system essentially now maybe you’re already
ready for that and so it’s a what I would consider a sunk cost and in that
case maybe brushless is going to be the best bet for you even though it’s a
higher cost but it is certainly a downside that it is more expensive to
get kitted up with brushless now when we look at selecting a motor the biggest
issue is the motor speed and brush motors they’re usually rated in turns so
21 turn 27 and 35 turn of our popular ones in the torque master
series in the crawl master series it’s going to be 13 turn 16 turn 20 turn and
what really matters is the final real speed that you’re going to get out of
this so let’s say you have a 35 turn torque master the equivalent is going to
be about a 16 turn crawl master and in a brushless term that wheel speed is going
to be about the same as a 1500 kv 1600 kv motor now if you want to match your
wheel speed and your kv all together then you really need to start from your
voltage that you run and most people end up running 3s lipo so about 11 volts and
I typically work backwards from a rpm of the motor and with a rock crawler you
typically have enough gear down to work with about 35,000 rpm and so I’m running
11.1 volts in my rig I want to get about 35,000 rpm for performance reasons and
you know low speed control reasons you know it really all adds up then I’m
gonna shoot for something around in the brushless realm about 3,500 kV is about
where I typically fall it’s a really good fast motor where you can crawl you
can rock race you can kind of do everything with it however if you’re
looking for more loads be control just crawling on trails then the 2200 Kv
range is really about what’s popular so the one way that you can look at this is
what’s popular what are people running and if you’re looking at a 540 brushed
motor easiest thing to just tell you is a 35 turn to a 27 turn those are going
to be the most popular if you stepped up to a taller a 550 can motor then that’s
gonna be like a 21 turn for the same speeds or a 27 turn for the same speed
is a 35 so the turn of the motor actually changes when your motor length
changes and that’s one reason that the brushless motors are not rated in turns
typically they’re rated in the kV the RPM per volt or more specifically is the
back EMF at a certain rpm is what kV stands for or the voltage constant if
you want to get technical so we would work with the voltage constant or the kV
and select the motor that we like in the brushless range it’s typically 2200 kV
to about 3500 kV that is the good range if you will the most
popular range I typically work with about 3500 kV’s and most of my rigs
and then I just either gear down or simply run 2s lipo if I don’t want so
much wheel speed that’s never the case I always want wheel speed so I always run
3s lipo on a 3,500 kV or even 4s lipo and I’ll let the rigged gearing be as
slow as I need so maybe throw a smaller pinion on there a larger spur gear
whatever is needed to hit that magic rpm limit of the motor about 35,000 and then
gear down my rig until it hits let’s say I want 12 miles an hour for a top speed
then we use our gearing to get there and that way you can ensure that your
systems always perform very good you have plenty of rpms coming out of the
motor you have plenty of gear down to deal with that and your net effect is
that you get better drag break better low-speed control just better efficiency
all around and you may have heard our mantra before volt up gear down we’ve
been saying this for about 12 years now and it really is for best low speed
control best performance just all-around in a rock crawler and you could apply
this to other things as well like say an airplane if you are having overheating
issues on a certain prop and motor then you can always go to a slower kV and a
higher voltage and while it won’t change the heat inside the motor it may let
your ESC s run cooler alternatively you could use the same motor with a prop
that was with a less pitch to it spin the motor faster use more voltage and
less hands to get the same power out and in that case your motor will run cooler
your ESC will run cooler and it’s the same as bolting up and hearing down as
long as the motor and the ESC will take the voltage that’s always the key if you
spend a motor to fast they usually get hot if you put too much voltage on an
ESC they’ll usually catch fire so we want to avoid those sort of mistakes of
course we have to work within the voltage range of our equipment now one
thing that I would like to address is that a lot of times I hear people say
well you if you want more torque go with a slower motor a lower kV motor is going
to give you more torque or a lower higher turn brush motor is going to give
you more torque it’s really a misnomer it is not true that a slower motor will
give you more torque it just isn’t how motors work it doesn’t matter what kV
this puller pro 540 is it will produce the same amount of torque as long as our
applied voltage will get us to the same unloaded rpm however an easier way to
think about it if you want more torque is just to upsize your motor to a bigger
motor if you have a bigger motor it will produce more torque and it will be able
to produce more power so in the cases where you’re thinking man I really need
more torque than last motor that I had don’t go with a mistake of a slower
motor use your same speed maybe just use more gear down to get your rig having
more torque at the tire or you just get a bigger motor and it’ll make the torque
as long as your batter you can take it so just a little word of advice from me
on that don’t get caught up in the slower motor for more torque side of it
now just add a little aside with brushed motors the brush losses actually do
create less torque as you go faster and faster however it’s not really the
working parts of the motor that are producing less torque it is the
commutation device which is the brushes we have the same problem with a
brushless motor in that the more hemp that you have in the motor controller
the more heated creates the more voltage drop the less power you get the same
thing happens within the brushes on the brushed motor so you can you can say
that hey slower brush motor will create more torque but technically it’s not the
motor that’s lagging in torque and also a 27 turn motor is about as fast as we
want to use in a rock crawler and that’s also right where the peak torque happens
to be if you go with a slower motor on the same both did you end up losing some
torque so that’s probably a whole nother video to get into this but just a word
for the wise don’t get caught up in the lower kV or in the slower motor for
producing more torque it’s kind of a bad trail to follow
so to summarize you really want to know what you want to do with your rig before
you get your motor if you can of course now there’s a few loose and fast rules
that we can follow if you’re going fast if you want to go faster than 15 miles
an hour brushless all day it really is going to
be your better solution and most of that is because of the brush wear when you
get going too fast in a brushed motor because of the load on it because the
torque load the amp draw it just wears out brushes very fast and it’s not a
good value to be buying brushed motors if you’re going fast all the time now of
course you could buy a cheaper sealed can like the torque master Sport and
it’s fairly inexpensive just swap it out swap it out swap it out so you may still
choose a brushed motor in that regards but just
be aware it will wear out faster especially faster than a brushless motor
of course now where else would you want a brushless motor going fast that’s kind
of a given now what about rock racing or any other
style of racing that’s going to be better for the brushless motor at this
point as well if you’re doing hill climbs
definitely brushless motor hill climbs will wear out a brushed motor very fast
it’s a lot of load and it just eats up the brushes I’ve had customers eat them
up in 30 minutes and be a little bit upset about it and and it’s
understandable you want that value out of your motor but for hill climbs you
know sand drags drag racing anything with racing in the word you really want
to go with a brushless motor long term it’s gonna give you the better value
better performance and you’ll be happier with your rig you might break more parts
but you know that’s kind of part of the deal here now well even bashing around
honestly that long run time is really nice so now next up why would you choose
a brushed motor this one is a much more specific case I would say if you’re a
comp crawler and you’re looking for that best low-speed control brushed is the way
to go the less complexity of the brushed motor
combined with not having sensors I should say that the brushless motors are
all assumed to have sensors when we talk about the low-speed control here the
brushed motors still beat the sensored brushless it has just really got that
good low-speed control the other reason that you would replace these with
another brushed motor is when you have it ready to run rig again the TRX4, SCX10II
they come with a brushed motor you basically just solder a new one in and
you’re ready to go you don’t have to replace your ESC nothing else changes on
there if you get a motor that’s about the same speed it’s literally drop-in in
your performance may change a little bit if you’ve got a let’s say a higher
quality motor but your speeds will be about the same you know you know how
it’s gonna perform for sure the other people that are gonna choose a brushed
motor maybe they’re you know on that 15 mile an hour edge maybe they are racing
a little bit but they really like the low-speed control you could call them
crawler junkies you could call them aficionados whatever you want to spec
them as there is a quite a large segment of people that love the lowest speed
control in the field of brushed motors so much that the brushless really isn’t
worth it anymore and I’m always on that fence myself I
love low-speed control and I’ve managed to engineer motors to where they have
great low speed control so I can you know I can choose these I can be happy
when I use them but when I really want something that feels great
I’m gonna go towards the brush motors more specifically ones with the higher
slot counts like a crawl master series they have a five slot armature instead
of having a three slot armature and that just helps them start up a little bit
smoother much more controlled but as you can tell on the name crawl master versus
torque master they’re much better at crawling but they don’t quite cruise as
much torque so there’s always a trade-off in motor designs and that’s
really gonna be another video for another day I think
so to summarize you should know the performance differences between the two
at this point you should know how to optimize your speed or kV or at least
understand what the popular ones are 35 turn 27 turn in brushed motors or for a
550 brush motor 27 turn and twenty-one turn and then for your speeds in the
brushless motors we’re gonna be talking pretty much 2,200 KB to 3,500 kV range
if you’re rock racin maybe you’ll go as high as like 4000 maybe 5,000 but it
ends up being an issue for the heat in your motor controller at that point in
my opinion so usually people stay around that range about 3500 KB to the 2200 kV
for brushless and you know the style for your needs that really depends on what
you want to do but I think that we’ve gone over enough that you can kind of
figure that out and you know weigh the positives and negatives for each one and
make your own decision at this point but if you do have any more questions feel
free to comment below or shoot us an email through our website and if you like the vid just let us know that you liked it give us a like on
here subscribe to us and pop a comment down below if there’s something that we
missed and maybe we’ll be able to put it into the next video for you so thanks
for tuning in today and have a good one.

100 Replies to “Brushed vs Brushless motors in Off Road R/C Trucks”

  1. Ok i want change my TRX 4 combo to brushless because i have some probs with brushes (wear down quick) after many river crossings but i doesent want loose the stock brushed crawl performance,any suggestions?

  2. Best vid I have ever seen in explaining motors…
    Up until now, I thought "Lower Kv = Better crawling….."
    That being said, I'm going to build a TRX-4 and can only gear down to a 9 tooth pinion, from the stock 11, and also will be running 2.2 tires (and on the bigger side of the 2.2's which will counteract the gearing change…). The rig will also have extra weight.
    Pretty sure the Puller Pro 540, with a Mamba X is the way to go, but what would you recommend for a KV within those limitations to get the BEST low speed control and crawlability for a "Crawler Junkie" as you put it, who wants to go brushless?

  3. Would have any suggestions on what brushed motor would be good for my clodbuster crawler project? I also geared it down with a posi lock gear. Great video, subd.

  4. I’d like to use a Holmes hobbies motor in my Gelande 2. I have a Traxxas Titan 21t brushed motor. What’s gonna give me similar performance to this motor?

  5. Higher gauge coils, more turns = lower speed, more torque.
    Lower gauge coils, less turns = higher speed, lowerr torque…

    …. In compariable motor sizes. If you're buying a bigger motor, obviously you can have more torque and speed also. If you're dealing with space limits, and want one or the other speed or torque, base your research in turns vs gauge

  6. Awesome video's wish I saw theses from day one. Didn't realize you where into e bikes too, I have built a couple with the bbshd love it. Anyways keep up the good work!

  7. Hi, great video. I have a cc01 that has a 35t brushed motor but it feels a bit too punchy for going over precarious terrain. I WAS thinking to try 55t brushed, but after learning that they need to be replaced so often, i ma wondering if there is a brushless motor that would match the speed of the 55t brushed motor. Plus i like the programmability of brushless motors

  8. Nice summarise of the topic. Loving slow and scale crawling, I wiil stay brush motor. As I rarely spin much, my brushes do not ware out fast. Thanks for this great video.

  9. Watched every second of this extremely informative video..!!! Weather you are new to aftermarket motors, or an experienced crawler… brushed or brushless, there is something in here for you..! Very well done in every aspect..! Learned a bunch..! Liked and Subscribed..!! Volt up, gear down..!

  10. Until now my life was easy…more turns more torque…I dont know what to believe in anymore…whats next, there is no santa claus?

  11. I do have a ? I have the trx4 I'm looking at getting th ed Holmes hobbies 550 can 27t brushed motor how much more torque will have have then my titan 550 21t. an do I need do I need anything wire wise to it with stock esc

  12. Hi! I have an unconventional application. I want to use a motor to spin a large 1.5m ceiling fan. It should be able to run with as low as 100 RPM and of course, run for 3 month a year non-stop. Initially, I was thinking of going for a low KV brushless powered at 12V but now I am not sure. What do you recommend?

  13. Thanks, real information! The battery power to motor to gearing to tire speed calc for optimum motor selection was appreciated. In BMX, we call it 'rollout' though that calc uses diameter instead of circumference for the number we all reference in discussion. Subscribed.

  14. I would like to know more about you brushed puller motors. Why were they not included and where do they fit in. I use a 27t 550 trailmaster sport? and looking to upgrade for more low end torque/control.

  15. What would be a good choice of brushed motor/esc for an Axial SCX10-II that will spend most of its life bashing vs. competition crawling?

  16. OMG!!! THANK YOU JOHN!!!!! 😱😉 I've been TRYING to tell people for years that a 55 Turn Motor does NOT have more Torque than a 35 or 27 Turn Motor. My Dad was an Electrical Engineer – I worked on Avionics in the Air Force. Plus, with an electric Dyno, I've PROVED it. But nobody listened…
    They limit SPEED. If your needs are for a 10,000rpm Motor, you want a 65 Turn. However it WILL have significantly less Torque than a 35 Turn Motor.

    They didn't even get that back in the Day, when we used to run 15, 12, even 8 Turn Motors – WHY they would tear up Gears, twist Dogbones and such…
    And why 1/14th Scale Semi Trucks, with 55 Turn Motors for "Torque", would STALL on grades!

    THAT'S Torque! I'm so glad that someone knowledgeable and respected has finally put that out there.

    With that, a question that I'm pretty sure you're qualified to answer…
    I have a 30 Turn TorqueMaster. Can I replace the entire Stator with a 5-Slot one? Does the Endbell have to go too? I like your TorqueMaster. I just have experience with Model Railroading, that tells me that a 5-Slot Motor has noticeably smoother off-brake performance than a 3-Slot.

    Is that even economically feasible? I'm pretty Poor, and although I'd LOVE to buy a 5-Slot Motor from you, it can't happen anytime soon. 😭😭
    Hopefully, ideally, I really want the new Sidewinder 4 ESC and one of your 1800-2200kv Brushless Motors. That really won't happen for awhile…
    Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
    Carmine 💥 ⛽

  17. So what about esc programming with brusless ? Like castle mamba combo the esc programming and features really help with that scale low super low start up for the best of both worlds. Like to hear alot more about your esc and programming. Great video thanks learned a lot

  18. I put a Crawlmaster Pro 540 20t motor in my TRX4 Bronco. I had to spin the end bell 180 degrees to make it reverse rotation. I am trying to set the timing. But, after going 12 degrees I do not hear a difference in rpms. Also it spins faster when I go in reverse than fowards.

  19. ''Volt up, gear down''. Would the opposite be true? My sons ruckus motor is always overheating and I can't fit smaller pinion so I was thinking to put a motor with a higher number of turns.

  20. Great Video! Perfectly explained! One question: For 1/10 ralley: 2200kV on 4s or 3050kV on 3s? As you mentioned "volt up, gear down" the 2200kV should be better?!?

  21. You covered everything I was questioning except water ! I've been told brushless doesn't like water and also another would only go brushless in wet situations.
    Who is correct?

  22. Hi, very informative; wish I's seen this yesterday lol..
    Just bought a built scx10ii and planned on 70% trail 30% crawl, but I went with your 27 turn sport and a HW1080wp,
    but now I'm thinking of the brush wear.. Subbed

  23. But is the torque at high rpm important for a crawler? Wouldn't the start torgue of the motor be more important or are they the same too?

  24. when do you choose a 550 over a 540 brushed motor ?
    I usually run a 35t 540 in my bomber. Now i am testing a 29t 550 motor. Seems to have more power but less speed, so now i am going for a larger pinion..

  25. Hi there, I’m building an SCX10 II kit where I’m planning to mount the PULLER PRO BL 540 STANDARD + TRAILMASTER BLE PRO ESC, Do you have any idea of the gearing configuration that I need to install to “gear down“ the SCX10 II transmission?

    By the way when the TRAILMASTER BLE PRO will be available again?

    Finally thanks for your informative videos, I live in Mexico and the local RC scene in my city is very small, so all the information that I have about this amazing hobby comes from YouTube videos and forums, thanks a lot!

  26. I need to replace brushes in two of my rigs, one has a torquemaster pro 540 35T and the other a really old Novak 540 55T. I've sourced the HH motor brushes online but can't locate brushes for the Novak anywhere. My question is will brushes used in the torquemaster (or some other motor) also work in the Novak? Or is there a brush size standard I can follow to figure out what brushes the Novak needs?

  27. Just bought a Cross RC HC6. May have a trailer behind it. Trails and general cruising. Was thinking brushless with a 3S battery pack. What would you recommend?

  28. I learned about your company from watching Harley design videos. I don't get much time to crawl in a group setting. So most my information comes off the internet I am looking forward 2 using your products! I have heard nothing but outstanding reviews! I have been in RC enthusiast for nearly 30 years. The last 15 or so has been everything airborne just getting back into the wheeled side of things… TRX4, Rock ray, Notorious. With a new baby Bomber on the way 😁

  29. Great informative video! Thanks for sharing. A suggestion, pls consider zooming in on the motor in the MAIN screen. Maybe even a zoomed brief still image for reference. The zoom angle in the small PIP still results in a small image. Viewers (like me) who mainly watch on a cell phone, can barely see the product you are talking about.
    Thanks again. Liked and subbed.

  30. Hi
    I really love your video and explanation, it is very clear. However what it would be your suggestion to start with rc world to my 9 years old son, "Rustler 4X4 VXL brushless or brushed"??
    Thank you very much.
    Jesus from Austin (Tx)

  31. Good to see these information on Brushed motors. I specially like open end bell rebuildable motors. I use Tamiya BZ and GT tuned motors and Warlock Racing 27T motor

  32. Sir.. what is the three wire of brushless motor and two wire in brush motor….i.e negative and positive…. but in brushless i cannot understand… which is negative and positive.. cos it has 3…pin wire

  33. I have a question why does the brushless motor stutter when you crawl or when you first want to take off I just got a ocday brushless esc it's a cheap one nothing fancy lol …I installed it to my trx4 an it only stutters when I crawl or when I throttle a lil

  34. It would be great to see a side by side comparison of your Crawlmaster, your best brushless crawling motor and the Axe system. I've seen the video you did do but maybe do one showing them side by side doing the same things. The start up differences, the transitions when they all go up and over then back down a hill / over a hump, and the differences in how you control them to not run away from you. I'm relatively new and know a little but would enjoy seeing such video. Thanks

  35. Love the videos this has help to better explain to others in our group the how and why of motor selection and give me more info on your current motor line for project builds doing a great job John

  36. Good info, thanks. I've always been happy with brushed motors because I pretty much exclusively crawl so smooth low rpm is important to me. My friends always ask me "how fast will it go?" I reply "the important thing is how slow will it go." I just ordered a Redcat Gen8 and when it's time to replace the motor I'm considering going brushless. Mostly because of the longer lifespan of the motor, and brushless have come a long way and now can have great low speed control. I'm not overly concerned with more torque. I don't really enjoy or can afford to keep replacing broken stuff.

  37. Maybe a dumb question but would adding a lot of poles, say 12-24, to a brushless increase low speed control? In addition to stator slots

  38. When I used to race the RC10B3 and T3 back in the early 2000's all we had was brushed motors. I ran 13 and sometimes 15 turn motors, I'd get dozens of races out of a set of brushes! Those are motors spinning at well over 25k rpms, not to mention I also used to charge my batteries at 5 amps lol. Not sure how your getting such short lifespans out of brushed motors. Hell my Tamiya kits with the crappy 540rs motor would last for YEARS! Even today with my bashers my Bandit XL5 and Slash XL5 both have about 50 runs on them with the Titan 12 turn 550. Brushes still look great, they've hardly worn.

  39. just wondering what sort of educational background u have? just wanted to know what it takes to understand this? like do u have degree/phd in engineering!!! ?? any details please?

  40. I've been thinking about jumping into the RC car hobby. I found this video very helpful.
    Thank you.

  41. Awesome video John. I haven't converted to homes completely yet I do have a Holmes hobby torquemaster ESC that came in today but I will be installing I purchased so axial sealed can motors in 17 and 55 thinking the 55 will get better torque but after watching your video now I understand what is being said and think the 27 may be my best bet for crawling. The only thing is right now they didn't offer a wide variety of spur gears for my crawler and you can only go so small with opinion and I'm already down to a 10 to any suggestions on that

  42. I'm looking to put a brushless system in my ecx amp, and was wondering if I could keep my 4500 mAh nickel metal hydride battery for the brushless system as I am on a budget

  43. Second vid i've seen to the fullest, very intresting and complete , now i need to go back and hit you with a question on the first vid 🙂

  44. Confused here. No way my 4370kv can pull my 5kg truggy! Even with 3s it is slow and hot as hell. Sure, gearing down Works but then my sons nikko will go faster

  45. Been watching a couple of your videos now. They are great, but I mean, very technical with a lot of information and numbers thrown in very quick. Could be cool with some more educational-minded, dictactical, beginner-friendly videos. Like concentrating on some of the terms that we non-technical hobbyists encounter all the time (like "brushless", "brushed", "kv", "4-pole", "turn", "540", "550" and so on) in separate videos? maybe also comparing two motors in one video and concentrating on them (like a "brushless vs brushed", "540 cs 550", "21" vs 27T" etc.). In a ll the technical stuff I kinda missed out on an easy-to-understand thorough explanation of the 21T, 27T vs the 35T, 55T, 80T. Seems like a very important topic. So I got that one doesn't get more torque but just get's a slower motor. Is there any benefit at all then?

  46. I have a 3900kv brushless motor on my 1/10th scale on-road rc car and runs like a camp, and also I’m a speed junky the faster the better or me as long I don’t have heat problems which I don’t

  47. I want to replace the stock trx4 with a brushless setup. I want the same speed with 11t 45t also want the same torque. What kv motor would I get?

  48. i have a 4×4 Ruckus 110 brushless motor truck with a ABC Tazer Motor with a 5000mAh 7.4 voltage Battery 50c getting 7600mahAco 7.4 Battery put in my Truck this Thursday its Gens battery power u can rely on it says on the battery 2s was going to get 3s is that to much power for my Ruckus plus i have 2 cooling fans 1 in front 1 in back WILL that make a difference with overheating THE motor on a 3s or the 2s Battery i just talked about??

  49. This was very informative, I saw a lot of these videos when I got back into the rc hobby six-seven years ago but since they've sort of disappeared, more showing what companies send than actually giving valuable information, thank you Mr Holmes

    I'm one of those that got caught in the whole "lower t number more torque" so I run my Wraith with a CC "can't remember the name" esc and an 80t motor and my Vaterra Ascender got a Hobbywing 1080 and a RC4WD 55t motor. Both of them have more than 10 hours behind them but they seem to be working fine, didn't know that the runtime where only estimated to 10hrs, but then I'm not racing, I'm one of those slow flexing suspension making things look realistic type of drivers.

    I have been looking at upgrading the electronics in my cars, mainly the Ascender since that's the one I use most but I've looked at going for a brushless setup but maybe I should just go for a new brushed motor for starters then, I do like the 1080 esc, or at least I liked the performance upgrade it was going from the 1060 to the 1080, haven't got that much experience from any other ecs so I can make a statement of how good any other are 😊

    Thank you for some really good informative videos 👍

  50. Well said. You nailed it. Mid size motor, and gear down, for bottom end and torque, and efficiency. Or at least, that's what I gathered

  51. Great video, glad I found it. What is your best suggestion for a brushed budget motor on a very heavy TRX4? Only crawling, not worried about speed.

  52. This video popped up in my recommended list, very useful indeed. How about for when you're considering the weight of the vehicle, what would be additional considerations, would you mind making an addendum to factor that in?

  53. You can improve your brushless motor performance. If you add an option to short (adjust the short) on the coils, you can use a regenerative breaking style dampening of the system at low speeds due to induction buildup at high speeds. Just add a channel on your controller which will control the transistor between coil poles. When it is completely opened, motor is free and car is in "neutral", when it's closed, the car breaks.

  54. I can’t make my own decision. That’s the problem lol. The axial wraith does not feel as smooth as my trx4 out of the box. Love the way my trx4 feels. It’s like I’m one with it. The wraith feels unpredictable. Like everything about it but the way it responds. So yes pls make a suggestion on a motor or motor esc setup. I would love your opinion. Thank you.
    Oh and I don’t care about speed. Just want smooth torque.

  55. no from all the RC tank forums Brushed motors have more copper equaling more Turns equaling more torque, that is what I am reading

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