BICICLETA ELECTRICA CASERA +60Km/h y 100km ! Montar un Kit de Motor Electrico en tu Bici

BICICLETA ELECTRICA CASERA +60Km/h y 100km ! Montar un Kit de Motor Electrico en tu Bici


In this video I’m going to show you how to make a homemade electric bicycle that reaches 60km/h lasts up to 100km and for an unbeatable price. So you can have an idea, something like this costs thousands of euros in the market for example this one costs 4000€ and ours is going to cost almost a tenth part. And yes, there’s a trick: assuming that you already have a normal bike, so you’ll only have to buy the components to adapt it. In my case I’m going to use a bike to which I had already installed an engine, but a gasoline one. It worked well and was fun, but it wasn’t enough, so I made some modifications to obtain more power That way it ran more, but it still wasn’t enough and besides, it was very noisy so I installed a much better engine which made less noise but … it was huge, like a motorcycle. I also mounted another electric bicycle long ago, but it has nothing to do with this one It was front-wheel drive and had a super simple kit That blue thing you see? That was the battery So, as you can imagine, it didn’t have much autonomy nor speed about 25km/h in a flat surface, but if there was a slope, it couldn’t take it and lowered to 17 km/h. The one I’m showing you today is so powerful, it can even do wheelies and climb slopes at 3 times the speed. Before starting to assemble anything if you don’t have a bike, I advise you to choose a good base not the most expensive and beautiful with double suspensions, etc. No matter how simple it is, the key is the frame we need one which can withstand the jumps and the pressure we’re going to put it under. The best is that it is of steel and of simple tubes, because they are cheap, but resistant. The second thing is to choose the type of engine we want to install There is one with front wheel drive but I don’t recommend it for this type of power, because the fork suffers. It is better to put it back, so the wheel grabs much better. The next recommended thing, which makes everything so much easier, is to buy the engine already assembled in the wheel because if you have to assemble it yourself, you may do it wrong and you won’t save much buying it separately. In fact, buying everything together is the cheapest option It brings all the necessary parts and it is super easy to assemble. There are two types of kit to choose from, those that bring branded pieces, and those that do not. The difference is obviously the price and the quality. I bought both and well, the wheels and tires are better, and the sprockets of the gears and all that but I think the cheap one is more than enough because the tire is resistant and we are not going to use the changes with an electric motor Besides, we will eventually end up changing the tires, so it doesn’t matter. What is important are the batteries, here it is worth spending more on a better brand and on more capacity There are two ways to buy them one is raw, that is, the cells wrapped in plastic and another with its plastic casing, which is more expensive and not worth it. It depends on each one, it is more beautiful, but you are going to buy less battery for the same price. I’m going to explain a basic concept, because people tend to get confused with batteries. One thing is the amps, which is the capacity, and another is the voltage, which is the power. If you put two cells together, the positive pole and the negative pole they have the same amps but double the voltage that is, you have twice the battery, not in duration but in power. That’s why most devices that run on batteries need several, cause with so little voltage they wouldn’t work. By this I mean that you shouldn’t choose a 36v battery thinking that it is the same as a 48v because even if it lasts the same, it will run half the power. Another thing, choose li-ion batteries because the li-po ones, even though they are cheaper and more powerful, are less reliable in fact they are thought for small batteries like a radio control, because they usually last a short time. Now that you know what you need to know about which components to choose, it’s time to assemble everything It’s very easy and I’m going to explain it in detail. The first thing is to remove the rear wheel, which is the one we bought with an engine. For it to come out, you have to release the brake, move the gear lever and remove the nuts that hold the wheel. Mine has with a quick release, which is ‘click’ and that’s it. Then we take the new wheel, by the way I’m using the cheap one the only thing we need to be sure is that the chain is well placed and that the axles fit well in the supports for that you have to remove the nuts. I say that they fit well, cause they have a concrete shape Instead of being completely circular, it has flat sides so when the wheel exceeds in power it doesn’t turn on itself. Then all you have to do, is put the washers right, and tighten the nuts with a wrench As you can see, I’m not using super complex and expensive tools. The only thing is that each nut tightens to a different side. When everything is tightened to the maximum you have to make sure that the wheel turns well, straight, and that you can pedal With this the engine would be ready, as you can see, it’s very simple, anyone can do it In addition, the wheel’s cable is connected to the controller which is what we need for the battery to send the voltage and control this. The screen and the accelerator. In addition, this kit included some electric brakes what those do is make the wheel act as a dynamo when braking, and thus they recover battery. By the way, if as in my case the battery comes with a connector and the controller with another, nothing happens you can cut one of them and put the connector that comes with the battery as it comes with one included in case this happens If you don’t want to be welding, with a couple of connection terminals is enough Now, to avoid damaging the engine’s cable by stepping on it since it’s loose put some clamps from the beginning And surely you will have to adjust the brake because the rim is wider to be more resistant, but is simply loosening the cable so there is more space. Don’t worry thinking that these brakes are bad, because electric brakes brake a lot. Now you have to put the battery and the controller in the frame You can do this as you like, these kits usually include a bag, but I didn’t like it because it’s super ugly and small I had a bigger one, but it still wasn’t enough anyway I’ll put it in the description because the battery fitted, what didn’t fit was the controller and you need to put everything, the cables too. Actually, there was space to put the controller, I didn’t want to fill the bike with bags so I went to the hardware store and I bought a PVC tube, which was white as my bike In addition, it was a coincidence that the cheapest pipe, the 10€ one, was the same size as the battery so it was perfect However, I tell you that my first idea was to put it in a briefcase. But obviously they’re not triangular, and cutting it was going to be a lot of work. While the plastic resists well, doesn’t dent and you can cut like butter. Then I started to measure everything, but I said “bah, it’s a long pipe, I can make 20 test cuts and if I mess it up 20 times, for 10€ I buy another one”. So I put it in front of the frame, made two pencil marks and cut it with the saw. I thought that putting 1 tube would be enough but the controller said no, because it was too wide and didn’t fit in any way. The solution? I cut another piece for the remaining space. So I would have two tubes, and each thing in one Besides, it formed a triangle that looked great, super aerodynamic I think that I had to cut one of the pieces a couple of times, I don’t remember if the small or large one but it was as if it was missing material on one side. With what was left of pipe, I cut it in half and put a lid, above and on the side. In addition, I left everything rounded, sanding to make it more professional. Once the lids were placed, I didn’t even need screws or clamps, everything was super fastened On top, unlike gasoline engines, this stood out just a centimeter at most on each side. But the lids were still a little weird, so I took them out again, smoothed and rounded them on the edges and in the end it was much better The final touch of this casing, to hold everything, is to use staples, like those used by cars This is usually the best to hold plastics, so I put them, a pair on each side. Then I took out the box, and not only was everything united, but by not putting a staple in this corner I could open the top lid to put things inside The only thing is that I had to pass wires from one hole to the other, so I screw the 2 tubes together so that there was no separation. The next problem was that with the controller inside, it didn’t close, so I had to modify it. It was easy, I could make it 2cm shorter simply by cutting the tabs, which serve to screw it and I was not going to use them, and by filing one of the edges a little Doing this it fitted perfectly and I could pass the cables without complications. Just where I had made the holes for the screws, I took a soldering iron and that’s where I made the hole. It’s better than drilling because the plastic melts and joins the two parts better and the edge is rounded without rubbing the wires The next thing is to make some holes the size of the clamps you are going to use, to hold the box. One pair in each corner is enough It’s advisable to put the clamps before the battery and all that, because otherwise it’s complicated and also put some foam to the battery so it isn’t loose I put too much and it got stuck, so the next thing I did was to put a handle to the battery with insulating tape so I could take it out in case it happened again The second time I didn’t used foam, but something thinner: bubbles and what you put under the furniture. So it fitted good, was attached and didn’t move. What was left was to connect all the cables but before I had to put a connector on the outside, to charge the battery. It’s just making a hole, leaving this there and then putting glue or silicone so it doesn’t move. Regarding the cables, there are 3 different ones that are fatter, those are the ones that connect to the engine, in this case from behind So you have to take this cable from the wheel and put it in the casing When you’ve put it in, take the three colored wires and connect each with its color, very simple Then the big square piece, with its big female piece. There isn’t much more, because the rest of the cables like the accelerator or the screen, have the same colors and connectors. There is only the battery left, which is the two red and black cables Before, it would be good to check the voltage to know the level of the battery and that it’s the voltage that you have ordered. By the way, if you buy a 48v battery the maximum it can give is 54.6 when it goes down, it gives less voltage and less power The last thing is to remove these gearshift levers, the fists and all that to be able to put the screen in the handlebar This works like the frame of the car or motorcycle, then I’ll explain a bit more but all that’s left is to put the accelerator and connect it. There is a spark when you connect these things, but don’t worry, it’s normal Before putting all the cables inside the box and closing the lid, just check that it works. You briefly press the power button and…it works. The wheel moves when you press the accelerator, and if we increase the assistance it’s awesome. As final touches: put the clamps to hold everything by the way, if they are bad you’ll notice it, so spend a little money, 2€ at least and if your frame allows it, you can put some pipe clamps, something like this metal but it was very ugly, the clamps are barely noticeable and they fasten more than enough. The last thing you can do, because all this will make the bike to weight more than usual is to put a goat’s leg, but a double one This way it holds up; a single one would bent and this way it occupies less at home, because the bike is straighter. It takes a while to charge, because I bought a bad cheap charger, well, the one the one that came with the battery. You can see the level of charge with the voltage of the frame, because the bars aren’t very accurate. You can trust the charger’s light, when it is green it means it is charged 100% The screen tells you the speed, the km you have done … well, it depends on how much you spend, it will tell you more or less. But I mainly care about how fast you can go and the km you can do. In that, for the 200€ of the battery and the almost 300€ of the engine and all the kit is practically the best thing that I’ve done or I’ve bought. Well, I have a scooter that is awesome, with the same figures of power and all that but the wheels, being a little smaller, allow you to do less km and lower top speed, but it is also awesome. The thing is, at least where I live, that people tend to look weirder to a scooter than to a bike on the road. I mean, it’s quite normal to see a guy pedaling next to your car while on a scooter, I don’t know, people aren’t used to it Besides, with a bike like that, you can be one more in traffic no one is going to complain about “f* this guy is slow, let’s see if I can overtake him” nor is anyone going to pass you without respecting the margin of safety, you’re going to be faster than them. Literally, at the city it’s faster than a car First, because you don’t swallow the traffic jams and second, because you can cross by field or anywhere On the figures, you can reach 60 km/h but when the battery lowers the maximum is, I think, about 50 something, which is not bad at all and on slopes it isn’t almost noticeable, so you keep going up to 40-50 km/h. You can do up to 100km if you help a little with the pedals when starting, if you are not braking all the time and if you don’t exceed a normal speed If you go all the time at full speed, it will probably last you half as long It’s logical, you use twice as much power, and the battery lasts half as long. On the reliability, it depends in part on how well you have assembled it. But in general, the batteries in themselves, last about 1000 cycles How much is this in kilometers? 1000×100, 10.000km? If you take care of it, yes, surely What is normally done, so they last longer, is to charge them up to 80% instead of 100%, so they degrade less. But frankly, I don’t take care of them, I charge them to top, I use them to top and when they break I’ll buy others. I’m not full of myself, let’s put it this way, imagine it lasts half as long as it could last you, I don’t know, 50,000km? Even if they were 20,000, I don’t even think I’m going to do so many km on a bike besides, when all those years go by, the batteries will be better and cheaper so it will be worth the change, even if they aren’t worn. So let’s enjoy it Now, on the materials I have used, battery, engine and all that, I’m going to leave the links in the description except the pipe, that buying it on the Internet is bullshit, surely in a hardware store near your home you can buy it Then, if you don’t do it because you don’t feel capable, or you don’t feel like it and you have money to buy it I have a pair of electric bikes that I could recommend They are small, because sending a large 26 inch bike from China is not viable. At the time, I recommended the Qicycle and I still recommend it, I think it’s the best what happens is that it’s sold out everywhere and even the price has gone up in almost all stores. As I don’t like that, I’ll recommend a couple of alternatives. Both, even if they look like bicycles, are legally scooters because they have no pedals You can buy them with pedals, but for the same price you choose between having more battery or pedals. For me the decision was clear. It has about 50km of autonomy, and reaches about 25km/h, that is, for the same price of an electric scooter you have the double of kilometers. This one has two drawbacks First, it is very small, for someone very big it would look ridiculous and second, the quality of construction is mediocre, well normal, but it has a common flaw: the light gets damaged, the front and rear one then you have to open it and remove a chip, because otherwise it does not start. It’s, well, bearable for that price, I suppose For that price range, about 300/400€ I see better the Xiaomi scooter, the basic model. For 500/600€ you have the other bike I say which already has two disc brakes and 48v battery, the engine too, obviously This means that it reaches 35-40km/h and the autonomy is very good too. This is an alternative to the QiCycle, because it runs more, 36v against 48v is noticeable enough, brakes better … well the typical Xiaomi’s QiCycle is among the best, but if you see that they want you to pay 800€ for a second hand for 500/600€ you have something that runs more When a product has no competition, they can raise the price whatever they want, is what happens with electric bikes So here is where you can make it homemade, for less money and much better. Well, it resists the blows Well… 3000€ of bike and can’t follow mine of 500€. My God. See you

100 Replies to “BICICLETA ELECTRICA CASERA +60Km/h y 100km ! Montar un Kit de Motor Electrico en tu Bici”

  1. Hola amigo primero quiero felicitarte por tu talento para mejorar las cosas, y me gustaría ver la posibilidad de que me vendas la caja que hiciste de PVC de tu bicicleta eléctrica ya que en México no venden la tubería de PVC rectangular y no me queda a gusto las bolsas que te venden para el kit. Por favor si puedes ayudame . Gracias.

  2. hola no va con este video , pero en parte si, es decir tengo una bici electrica en este caso una modraker prime año 2019 con motor boch perfomrace cx moto 2019, el caso es que este modelo , en concreto no es como los motroes de shimano que tiene una pocion para entrar en el movil para configurar , pero si se puede conectar y actualizar y revisar por sotfware conectado con un programa que tiene solo boch meidante usb con el display que tiene la bici mediante usb, se que hay unos nuevo display con bluetooch yamado kios pero vamos que se esta intalado en los nuevomotores de boch 2020 supuesta mente estos motores son mas silecioso mas pequeños y con otra respuesta en la sesibilidad a parte de otra funcione y se puede manejar con tu telefono, la cossa es que mi motor si es compatible con el diplay kios , pero claro cosa que no se es que si este display si lo llegara a compra no tenga esta funcione para mi motor de poder configura los perfiles
    bueno pues tanto rollo para decirte si sabe algo sobre el tema o te puede entera mejor que yo si esto es compatible y tendra estos extra que si el motor 2020 si lo tiene y quiero desimitar la bici, que me recomiendas de la dos marca el speedbox 2 con bluetooch este es mas caro y el otro serie eplus adavace, que segun tengo entendido tiene mayore cosas a la otra de toca el sofware, pero la pregunta es si conoces esto dos limitadores de esta marca y cual es mas seguros, gracia y espero que puedas ayudarme

  3. esa tabla de memdida de voltaje con la capacidad que sale en el min 9:10 tienes el linck para poder tenerla veo que me sera de utilidad

  4. Hola, necesito una buena bateria para un motor eléctrico de biciqleta con estas caracteristicas: 500w de potencia nominal (792 máxima), 41v.
    http://www.motorparabicicleta.com/2012/11/presentamos-el-escaalador-nuestro-nuevo.html?m=1
    Me podrias recomendar alguna buena?

  5. hola me gustaria si pudieses que me recomendaras donde comprar un kit electrico para mi bicicleta que es una trek 7200 muchas gracias

  6. Hola Vicesat, te comento en diferentes videos a ver si tengo la suerte de que me contestes.

    Me quiero comprar el kit para convertir una bici en una eléctrica de gas, el de 1500W. La pregunta es simple, podría subir cualquier rampa con ese motor y una batería de 52v? Me refiero a rampas bastante empinadas, de asfalto o tierra… nose, imagínate una pedazo de rampa ( pero sin pasarse, como si fuese una bici normal subiendo una rampa que costase mucho subirla).

    Mersi tío!

  7. Estoy interesado en hacerme una.
    Estoy viendo el tema de las baterías y donde sería mejor comprarlas? Ups lo para aduanas?

  8. Trabajo de delivery y me cansé de la bicicleta de motor mucho mantenimiento y la mezcla es un fastidio.. Que crees armar una de estas me rendiría el kilometraje? Por que yo diariamente hago más de 40 km incluyendo el trayecto d ida y venida a mí casa.

  9. Min 3:27 La bici es la misma a la q le hizo bicimoto, la llanta trasera era de la bicimoto antes, tiene el engranaje de la cadena de la bicimoto

  10. Tío yo me he pillado el kit y estoy hasta los huevos , desde el principio no funcionaba bien el motor , iba como a tirones y eso me duro 10 km por que después dejo de funcionar , y ahora cada vez que lo conecto se funde el fusible ,
    Menuda mierda 👿👿

  11. Si en vez de esa bateria de li-ion, le pongo 4 baterias AGM de 12v en serie, tambien obtendria los 48v de potencia necesarios para ese motor, no? La autonomia se me multiplicaria un monton por mucho menos dinero y aunque realmente pesaria mas, lo llevaria en un portabultos y no lo notaria mucho.

    Tendria que hacer alguna modificacion mas? O donde va enchufada la bateria de li-ion podria enchufar directamente este conjunto de baterias?

  12. La voltios de la batería miden la tensión y los amperes-hora la intensidad de la corriente que puede entregar esa batería a la tensión nominal durante una hora. La potencia es el producto de la tensión en voltios [V] por los amperios [A] y la cantidad o capacidad de energía de la batería es potencia x tiempo y se debería medir en W [Vatio] s [segundo] = J [Joule], se mide comunmente en V por Ah que es igual a W-hora, siendo un W-Hora = 3600J.

  13. Muy buen video saludos desde Colombia!
    Y disculpa una pregunta que baterías le colocaste? Esque no me doy cuenta
    Gracias!!

  14. Amigo no asen envios a peru del motor de marca no conoseras otro link q agan envios a peru arequipa si es asi grasias

  15. Hola, felicidades por el excelente tutorial, solo me quedó una duda, el kit funciona aunque no conectes el sensor de pedal ? Esa bateria que compraste incluye el bms ?

  16. Lo ideal es ir al Decathlon con la camara y comprar una adecuada para hacer el burro en el campo que esté bien de precio y sobre todo bien equipada, para subidas y descensos
    Acto seguido proceder al montaje.
    Yo lo pienso hacer así y probar a montar dos baterías tanto en serie como en paralelo y probar.
    No mencionas el diámetro de tu rueda, supongo que será de 26 pulgadas.
    Tampoco mencionas el Amperaje de tu batería en Ah.

  17. Podrías fabricar una moto eléctrica? Con el chasis delantero de una bicicleta de doble suspensión, donde van los pedales juntas el chasis de la parte trasera, el kit lo venden en internet, pero veo un hueco legal, que son los intermitentes, me ayudas?

  18. @vicesat viendo los comentarios, podrías comprar por mayor y venderlo, o pedir a una empresa que te auspicie, pero que luego no suban el precio, que quiero , quería armarme uno pero el precio ahora está el doble!!!!!!

  19. Pero todo eso es en España verdad amigo, aquí en México quién sabe si existan, de echo están con ganas para ir al trabajo, ya que una de puro pedal es más cansadito

  20. No sean idiotas al final gastan mas de lo que cuesta una moto italica economoca de elecktra u es mas segura y duradera solo mandenla a ensamblar bien es su unica falla son buenas

  21. Saludos!
    que ha pasado con ésta belleza? aun la tienes?, aún la recomiendas?
    Actualiza el video por favor!, ya casi me animo a comprar el kit

  22. Y si hicieras una bici con un kit de esos para tracción delantera y este kit para tracción trasera? Sería la bici dualtron?

  23. Como se le llama al estilo de la bici no se si me dejo entender esa forma que tiene en el medio tiene un nombre especifico ?? no es mopntañera ni de paseo ni treking nose si me entiendes?

  24. Y esto es legal en españa para ciudades y eso? Es que me parece que ko se podia poner motores si no son de ayuda al pedalear y no pueden superar los 25km

  25. Hola buenas puedes publicar un link en el cual pueda comprar la batería desde banggood por qué por Aliexpress no me la traen a mi país

  26. Amigo soy Minor de Costa Rica ? En España que precio en dolares tiene ese motor que le puso a la bicicleta de el video , y como haría para traerlo a costa rica? Alguna empresa de envíos que me lo traiga Hasta acá amigo?

  27. Buenas tardes, primero felicitarte y agradecerte por la información que proporcionas, me es muy útil, una pregunta, para un kit con motor de 500w que tipo de batería o de que capacidad recomiendas, gracias de antemano.

  28. Excelente video, el mejor que he visto para armar tu bici eléctrica. VICESAT , si la quieres con pedaleo asistido es conveniente?, ya llevo rato usando bici como medio de transporte y ya tengo condición, hago unos 8.5km en aprox 25 min con bici de 29" en ciudad con alguna que otra cuesta pequeña (200 m de largo con unos 50m de altura) pronunciada, lo que busco es armarme una que pueda llegar a unos 50 – 60 km por hora , idealmente yo metiendole potencia para que el motor eléctrico de mas kilometraje. ¿Qué debo tomar en cuenta para ese caso?

  29. bro podrías mandarme tu whatsapp para hacerte algunas consultas soy de Bolivia o háblame tu por favor +591 60535605

  30. Bueno comentar que lo he comprado el día del soltero en China, y me ha salido por 417 euros.
    Lo que no dice el video, es que la rueda motorizada con todo montado pesa sobre 15 kilos. Sólo la rueda sobre sus 8 kilos fijo.
    Todo vino bien empaquetado y explicado. Los cables del controlador todos enchufados a donde tienene que ir.
    Es un kit caro en comparación con otros de las mismas caracteristicas de la competencia en China.
    En cuanto a la batería tengo mis duadas cual es la más potente que puedo comprar con 40 Amperios que es el Amperaje máximo que trabaja la centralita del motor.
    La cubierta que trae la rueda es de baja calidad, cambiada por una Michelín para bici 27.5 pulgadas.
    Mi bici tiene doble suspensión, cuadro aluminio, impaciente por la llegada batería.

  31. Te recomiendo que montes el motor luna cyclone 3000w con bateria de 72 v , llevo mucho tiempo investigando y este es un motor central muy potente muy divertido , es impresionante la potencia que genera ese motor y las ventajas que tiene la mayor ventaja es que solo cuesta 390 euros el kit que trae un controlador de 40 ampereos muy bueno . Lo que mas me gusta es que puedes cambiar de marchas y eso mola que te cagas . No hay videos en español sobre estos motores seria un puntazo que tu lo instales .

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