Automotive Paint Removal – Tips & Products You Need and How To Use Them – PART 2 of 2 – Eastwood

Automotive Paint Removal – Tips & Products You Need and How To Use Them – PART 2 of 2 – Eastwood


another cool one that we’re going to
move on to here is a bristle disc is a
3m product and basically what these are
so it’s little plastic bristles notice
the same idea that you think of with a
wire with like a cone shaped wire wheel
but it’s plastic
this is a little more on it’s a little
easier on the metal it doesn’t gouge it
doesn’t scrape as much as a as a wire
wheel might do
it’s a little safer because you’re not
throwing metal shards at yourself all
the time and he’s coming different grits
so the 1i and let me just make sure you
have the right one here we go to 50 20
and this is an 80 to keep us fairly
honest here
so all these do i’ll show you on this
one here hope we can see those little
plastic threads inside
so these thread right onto these four
and a half inch angle grinders the
thread rate directly on and one key I’ve
seen with some people that had some
negative reviews on the site is that
they complain that this the thread strip
out easily
we don’t need to hunt down on these
threats you make them tight but you
don’t need to go crazy crazy on these
because you can’t strip them out because
they are plastic but if you’re if you’re
stripping these out you’re probably
going way too tight like it like I just
did there i just did a little snug
little past . what i would call snug
would be would be good for this
so you know what we forgot a square here
so I’ll do up above this one here and
i’ll show you how this one works
yeah
so by nature with the with the plastic
bristles on these they don’t they don’t
strip quite as quickly but they are good
for big areas you can really work these
across an area they don’t really wear in
a cone shape like the other one does and
keep these pretty flat because the area
that you’re working is over here son
like some of those other ones we are
working the edge and it wears quickly
into a cone shape and you have to change
it out these things if you use them
correctly
I gotta warn one here you can wear these
down all the way so we’ll show you a new
one vs vs the old one
so you get a lot of a lot of material
here that you can you can wear down to
so they are a little a little more
expensive than the other options but
they do last pretty long I mean you you
got got a probably a good inch and a
half or so or more there that you have
to work – you’re getting down to what’s
i use diesel is almost nothing left down
there
so these are good good option again you
can throw these in and as another option
to use one key with these is these
little bristles can fly off
so when you’re working around the edges
be very careful very careful because
these little little bristles they can
fly off and they hurt so make sure
you’re wearing a jacket or long sleeves
when you’re doing any of these jobs
that’s very important as well so next
one i have is is the little what a lot
of people will call cookies so kind of
name of but um these discs right here is
again it’s kind of a 3m design they have
a little screw in area on the back and
then again you need the the backing
plate so this is a larger want to have
here just with a with a sanding discs on
it but we’re just going to show you what
they look like so you just read these in
the backing part
this is obviously a smaller disk so you
can get the 2-inch backing pad but
that’s all it is you just read it in
your done
these are same ideas the other items
we’ve shown you but what’s good to have
these on hand is that you these you can
get into little crevices little areas
and they are a little more flexible the
backing pads more flexible
so when you’re standing if you need to
ensure so these bend a bit so if you’re
standing you need to get into a crevasse
or into an area that you can’t get to
with some of these ones that aren’t as
flexible because the backing pad for
these that we showed you is not flexible
so it’s good to have a box of these on
hand you can work any of those areas so
what I like to do is work the big
paddles
stay away from the edges and then you
come back with something like this strip
all your edges around window frames
things like that with these and then
yeah you know you can you’ll be good to
go all around
so that’s all the mechanical removal
so all things are going to use a machine
or your own brute force to remove next
thing we’re gonna move on to i can take
this off for this is chemical remover
so there’s always a lot of questions
about chemical paint stripper
does it work is it good is it safe for
the panel these these this is an option
that we have we have a gel since we’re
doing a hood we have it with a paint
normal paint stripper in a gel the gel
is a little thicker it’s going to stick
to a panel little better especially
doing a hood like this so it’s going to
want to run off so i decided to pick the
jail to show you guys today comes in an
era saw the gallon and the quart
container here and i really prefer to
use the the gallon of the court with
these acid brushes that we sell the
little metal brushes and these things
are designed to work with these
chemicals
so you dump a little bit of this on the
panel and you brush it on so i’m going
to put some rubber gloves on before we
show you that because this stuff is uh
it’s pretty nasty stuff so you get this
on your hands it’s going to burn if
anybody gets used this before and you
get a little bit on the edge of your
hand and you go to brush the hair out of
your eyes your foreheads gonna start
burning so I try to avoid doing that
keep keep rubber gloves on at all
all times so you’re not getting burning
all over you
so I dumped a little bit of salt a
little bit of this on before we started
the show and this is what it basically
looks like so I dumped it on the puddles
and I work it around with the brush like
this
this has already been working basically
for
about five minutes before we started I
dumped some of this on just to get it
going
it can take anywhere from five to ten
minutes to an hour to it to do to start
working depends on the type of paint and
how many layers there is everything like
that
the key with this to get this to work
really fast is to use that DA sander and
break the surface with the DA and that’s
what I did with this I broke the surface
so I started scratching up the white
that was underneath the black here and
then they put some of this on that helps
it really work into all the wires of the
paint
especially if you’re stripping something
that has a clear coat on it a good clear
cuts can have a real good bond on it and
you want to use that to kind of break
through the queer into the paint and it
will start working its way down so this
has been working and now i’m just going
to use a scraper here an old one we have
way around and just show you kind of how
you do it so that’s just taking all
those layers off like this and hear how
quiet it is
that’s a great thing about this stuff
just you can hear your music and you can
just work like this
so is it messy yes but so is the other
the other methods because you just
spreading on is spreading dust all over
the place so i’ll just kind of push this
up higher on the hood so you can see and
then we’ll grab so
we’re down pretty far we’d probably have
to go a little bit
another probably another session this we
can get down through these last couple
of coats but that got off the white the
black that was on the top where did
getting down into those original
finishes which may be a little bit more
difficult to get off
but that requires little to no effort so
you can pour it on the whole entire hood
Russian and walk away do whatever you
need to do come back
spread it around and working a back and
forth I really like to work this and in
conjunction with the mechanical methods
that we should so I’ll use this to get a
good chunk of it off and one shot we’re
going to scrape it off brush it on the
in the trash can and then I’ll come back
and work any areas that need to with the
with the mechanical methods but this
works really well
the dump over a whole entire panel if
you are using this he should still use
some sort of face mask for doing a giant
panel especially for in the garage it’s
not ventilated well should try and
ventilate it but either way to try and
use a face mask if you’re doing a large
a large area because this stuff does get
pretty pretty smelly when you’re doing
it
so those are the the big ways you can do
it at home with little investment so the
these are all things that are aren’t a
big investment don’t need giant tools
and get an angle grinder DA sander it’s
common things that allow you guys but I
have laying around if you want to if you
want to do if you’re doing a lot of
restorations
we’re really getting in depth with doing
how you stripping the paint and
everything off of a vehicle you may want
to think about investing into media
blasting so I have one of our pressure
blasters here
so media blasting basically are
pressurizing the media
that’s sometimes will be called
sandblasting which isn’t really a
correct term but the media
that’s inside of it you don’t want to be
using place and specific blasting media
inside of it
it’s pressurized you open the nozzle
it’s going to shoot out the media at a
really high velocity which is when it
hits the panel it’s going to strip it
off
so if you’re planning on doing a whole
entire vehicle you can see yourself
doing a lot of vehicle you know more
than just one over time
this might be a good investment for you
it’s also good for doing chassis he’s
getting in tight areas things like that
it’s it’s really good one to you
who’s now media blasters can cause just
as much damage on when you’re stripping
paint as that flap discs that I showed
you
why because people tend to sit in one
spot on a panel that’s really bad heats
up the paddle and as we talked about it
warps the power that’s horrible
so a lot of times you’ll hear guys on
forms and things like that saying never
media blast a car never ever media blast
the car if done correctly media blasting
is a great a great way to quickly remove
paint
we also have soda blasting available you
can do a conversion kit or separate sort
of blasters for these you can strip off
paint so you can use it
safeway on fiberglass things like that
you can use where the the base material
is a little more salt as a little softer
than say a steel hood of things like
that so that’s a great one to use
now if you don’t want to do the
investment of a pressure blast to stand
up media blaster
we started offering these recently just
what we call our small blast get this we
basically took media blasting to the
simplest method and you know crunch
together for small jobs you’ll need to
you need shop space
you can’t see yourself doing a lot of
big jobs this is good to have these are
great when you’re stripping paint
because no matter any of these discs i’m
showing you any of these methods they
are really it’s tough to get in those
hard-to-reach areas where you can’t get
the grinding a grinder stripping disc in
this is going to get into all these
crevasses so basically all it is to have
your pick up to here which holds the
media put it in one of our one of our
little small blast kits or you can
purchase the big bags after you purchase
the kit and shove it in a 50-pound bag
if you want but you can use these little
small ones hook air pressure up squeeze
the trigger
you’re going that’s pretty much all it
is to it versus the other offers a
little more set up time but where you
want to use the media blaster is areas
looking here if we can see if I tried
using the same to the stripping distant
here we’re going to we’re going to hit
this surface you’re gonna be standing
there are going to be using the edge of
the disc trying to get up in these
crevasses here and really you’re going
to gouge the metal before you get all
that paint off so save these areas for
the small blast kit
here hold stripped and come back and
work all these small areas that may have
surface rust may have paint left over
that’s why those kids are really good to
have around so that way you don’t need a
ton of material
well those small containers will cover
you can do a lot of a lot of blasting
with that just to get this small little
areas
so those are some of my favorite methods
for stripping paint the West last thing
them over before we start doing any
questions that you guys might have is
what do I do with the panel after I’ve
strip the paint
so you’ve stripped all your paint your
down to bare metal not everybody is a
production shop where they can go and
immediately they taken primer the panel
and start doing bodywork your car may
sit around you may even have to push it
outside
you know to do some other things what
you need to use
we have a couple products my favorite
that I pulled out here is our Eastwood
fast etch this is one of the most
diverse chemicals for for this type of
work to have laying around
this is good for getting rusty it’s in
pits that you can’t get to with the with
the stripping and cleaning disk that we
talked about
so you can put it in there you can spray
it and let it sit and it’s going to it’s
going to actually eat away actually
dissolved and we’ve always the phosphor
coating on after it’s done
so what’s great about that phosphoric
coding is it actually it was a coating
on top of the panel the bare metal that
isn’t going to rust
so it’s a nice barrier for pushing
outside your garages and he he
controlled even the changes in
temperatures are going to call it a
cause condensation it’s going to make
the panel rust so I should i have an
area right here that i just wanted to
show you guys that is a perfect example
this hood was tested a lot i spray it
black just to get it all one color for
you guys
I left an area was on that was somebody
gets tripped and a and this was just
from sitting around it got that surface
rust in it
so what you can do if i have a rag here
we’ll see if it will quickly and then
well we’ll be good
so
so you can spray it on this area just
like this and we have an empty bottle
all right I told you I use that stuff a
lot so you can put that on there and
start rubbing it you can see it slowly
taken away the rust but just a little
bit that I sprayed so what I do is our
if you have any surface rust like this
to you did forget the straight the panel
wipe it down clean up with the fast
statue I’ll take the rust off and then
spray a little bit more fast stretch and
just let it sit on it that we have that
phosphoric coating which you can leave
the panels in bare metal and when you’re
ready to start doing bodywork or you
want to start you know working dense and
things like that
you can just rip it off you can use a
chemical like our pre spray on it wipe
it down with free that will get
everything queen and then you’re good to
go to your body work but you can leave
that on there and i’ll be a good barrier
for an extended period of time
what’s the surface is brooke with a
trust may happen so that’s that’s the
basics that i have here
if you have any questions or future
topics e like myself
Kevin to cover feel free to shoot us an
email with a message leave us any
comments on our YouTube or Facebook so
thanks again for joining us and we’ll
catch you next time
yeah

23 Replies to “Automotive Paint Removal – Tips & Products You Need and How To Use Them – PART 2 of 2 – Eastwood”

  1. To purchase a product, click a picture at the beginning of the video.   And don't forget to SUBSCRIBE to our Youtube Channel to get all of our great videos.

  2. Thank you for this video. I'm about to strip my engine bay down for a repaint and wasn't entirely sure what to use.

    Very helpful.

  3. I'm new to this stuff. I have one question though. I am interested in the media blaster you have there. The blue one. If I was to purchase one would that be it or would I need an air compressor? I have an 80 gallon air compressor in my garage. Can I use it with that or is the media blaster you have there in the video it??

  4. Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?  Check out this video from Eastwood to find out:  
    Awesome Office Pencil Sharpener – Sharpening the Pencil – Are You an Eastwood Guy?

  5. I'm trying to strip the paint off my 1970 vw beetle of its original paint but I'm not sure what I should use and I'm a beginner at doing this and I'd like to do all the steps of stripping and priming before I send it off to painting

  6. Regarding media blasting…..if my work is contained to a small area in the garage, can it be neatly swept up and reused?

  7. Very helpful and well explained…..I think I'm going with the stripping pad method for starts…..thanks for your time!!!!

  8. after you have got the paint off with the chemical stripper, what steps would you take before painting? Would a wipe with some white spirits be enough to remove it?

  9. I guess it is self evident but the bristles are more than plastic. They are impregnated with a ceramic abrasive. I would like to see a comparison between the coarser bristle brush and the coarse 3M roloc pads like the purple one or Norton's Gold one. I would like a comparison between the plastic bristle brush and the stiff unbacked woven hard wheels in general.

  10. when using the alkaline strippers (non citrus), keep a small "finger bowl" with lacquer thinner in it. the lac stops the stripper "biting", and is quite nice for the little splashes onto sensitive flesh that seem to be burning their way to shanghai via the bones in your wrist, or your belly, or those delicate spots not so mentionable on so "family" a comment board, lol. NEVER let stripper dry on the panel, re application on top of dried just makes awful, smeary, sticky plastic goo that defies removal. warm metal strips easier than cold, but also dries the stripper faster. NEVER use chem stripper in direct sunlight, btw, it goes to goo as often as bond breaking, after chem stripping, wipe with lac to "stop" the stripper, THEN you can soda blast, prep etch, etc without ghosts of alkaline corrosives spoiling your day.

  11. If you get an engine back from the engine shop but won't be working on it for a little while is it okay to spray the machined surfaces with fast etch? (cylinder walls, cam/crank journals)

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