8202 Nitro-Fuzer Setup and Use

8202 Nitro-Fuzer Setup and Use


This is the setup and use video for the 8202
Nitro-Fuzer® Welder.
This welder has digital temperature controls,
dual-gas input, includes a cart, uses a nitrogen tank,
and is fully assembled from the factory.
Thank you for your purchase of the Polyvance
8202 Nitro-Fuzer® nitrogen plastic welder.
Polyvance was the first to bring nitrogen welding technology to the automotive collision repair industry
in 2006, and we have continued to be the innovator in nitrogen plastic welding since that time.
Your nitrogen plastic welder will give you the ability to weld virtually any broken plastic material quickly
and with great strength.
Please watch this entire video to learn how
to set up and use your new plastic welder.
This video includes the following sections:
Unboxing and Initial Setup, Safety First,
Turning on the Welder for the First Time, Doing a Basic Weld, Helpful Accessories, and Troubleshooting.
Your 8202 Nitro-Fuzer® welder comes completely
assembled from the factory,
but there are a few things you’ll need to do to get it ready for use.
First, you’ll need to take it out of the box.
Open the top and remove the foam padding.
Visually inspect the welder to be sure there
is no shipping damage;
if there is, you’ll need to contact the trucking company that delivered the welder.
Use a razor knife to cut the outer shell of
the box at the bottom, just above the staples.
Cutting too high on the box increases the
risk that you’ll cut the welder hose, so use caution.
Once you’ve removed the outer shell, lift the welder out of the lower foam pad and put it on the floor.
There are several items that come with your welder.
You will find a full selection of plastic welding rods in three organizer cases, plastic sheets,
and a nitrogen bottle regulator connected
to your welder and ready to use.
Your nitrogen welder torch and hose assembly
will be on a shelf, detached from the welder.
There is also a cardboard box containing other
accessories.
Inside the box you’ll find a Quick Start Guide
which covers everything you’ll see in this video
to help you set up and use your machine.
Let’s unpack the box and get everything set up.
Inside the box you’ll find chains to hold
your bottle to the cart.
Thread the chains through one side of the
brackets on the back of the cart
to get ready to receive the bottle.
Put your other tools, accessories, and welding
rods into the tool bins on the top of the cart.
If there is any masking tape on the nitrogen welder torch, remove it.
Carefully attach the nitrogen welder hose
to the welder by lining up the notches in each part.
Don’t push the connector in — the pins are
easily damaged.
Use the threaded collar to pull the connector in.
Thread the teardrop welding tip into the airless
welder, then put the welder torches into their holsters.
The nitrogen welder with the red handle always
goes in the top holster.
Plug the airless welder into the receptacle
on the face of the welder.
Next hook up your shop air.
Screw your shop’s male quick disconnect fitting into the lower hole of the air manifold on the front of the welder.
If you purchased Polyvance’s accessory whip
hose with inline air blower,
install it into the hole on the front of the manifold.
Connect your shop air line to the fitting.
Make sure to use clean, dry, oil-free air.
If water or oil gets inside the system, it
will ruin many internal components,
and will not be covered by the Polyvance warranty.
Next, get the nitrogen tank set up.
Order a tank from your local welding gas supplier.
The size that works well is the 125 cubic
foot tank, which stands about four feet tall.
This tank will flow for almost four hours
at 15 liters per minute.
At ten minutes per repair, it should allow
you to do roughly 23 repairs.
Chain the tank in place using both the upper
and lower chains.
Inspect the tip of your nitrogen tank regulator
to make sure that it is clean and smooth.
The conical face of the tip is what creates
the seal to the tank valve, not the threads.
Just screw it in by hand, then tighten firmly
with a wrench after the tip makes contact.
Do NOT use any Teflon thread tape on the regulator threads.
Unscrew the T-handle until loose, then slowly
crack the valve on the tank.
The gauge closest to the tank shows the tank pressure.
The other gauge shows the downstream or outlet
pressure of the nitrogen.
Turn the T-handle to get about 25 psi of outlet pressure.
With the air line and nitrogen hooked up,
you are now ready to use the welder.
Please watch the rest of this video to learn
how to use your welder for the first time.
Before you turn on your welder for the first time, please keep in mind the following safety precautions.
First, use safety glasses whenever grinding
or sanding plastic.
Second, we’d recommend that you use mechanic’s gloves
to protect yourself against accidentally touching hot components.
Finally, and most importantly, do NOT touch
the metal barrels on either the nitrogen welder
or the airless welder.
They get VERY hot and can cause severe burns on contact.
Be conscious of this hazard as you weld and try to prevent distractions
from taking your mind off this point.
Your Polyvance welder has automatic low-flow
heating element protection, but despite that,
always get the air and nitrogen flowing through
the torch before you turn on the heat.
First, attach your shop’s compressed air line
to the air manifold at the front of the welder.
Make sure your air is clean, dry, and free of oil.
Oil and water in your compressed air will
damage the welder’s internal components.
If in doubt, install a filter-dryer at the
wall where you plug in your welder.
To turn on the welder, make sure the welder
is plugged into the power strip on the cart,
then plug the power strip into a wall outlet.
We recommend that you use a surge protector
at the wall outlet.
Power requirements in the United States are
120 volts single phase, or common household current.
The welder will draw about 7 amps of current
at maximum power,
so make sure the circuit you plug it into will support that.
Make sure the switch on the power strip is
glowing red; if not, flip it to the “reset” side.
Turn on the welder’s main power switch.
If the torch is in the holster, you will see
the yellow light on the air side glowing.
The LED temperature setting readouts will
activate and show “OFF” at first.
Leave them off until you set up the air and nitrogen flow.
With the torch in the holster, adjust the
fine flow control on the air side
to get the ball in the analog flow meter to float at
about 12 liters per minute.
As you can see, the ball is floating between
the 10 and 15 marks here.
Make sure you have air flowing through the
tip of the torch.
To set up the nitrogen flow, open the nitrogen
tank valve and inspect the upstream pressure gauge
to make sure that the tank is not empty.
Then adjust the T-handle to about 25 psi
on the downstream side.
Take the torch out of the holster to switch
the welder to nitrogen.
You should see the yellow light on the nitrogen
side glow now.
If the flow is too low, you’ll see the red
“low” light glowing.
Turn the fine flow control valve until the metal ball in the flow meter is floating at about 12 liters per minute.
That is a good baseline flow setting for most
bumper repairs.
Again, verify that you have flow through the
tip of the torch.
Put the torch back into the holster and the
yellow light should switch back to the air side.
Now turn on the heat by pushing the temperature
control knobs one time.
Both welders will show the preset temperature.
From the factory, the nitrogen side is set
at 52, which is a good setting for polypropylene,
the most common automotive plastic.
The temperature setting may be adjusted depending
on material and flow.
You should notice that the nitrogen flow coming
from the welder tip has begun to get hot.
Allow about five minutes for the welder to
reach its working temperature.
If the gas flow through the nitrogen welder is adequate, you’ll notice the green “safe” light is blinking.
It is normal for the light to blink.
If you reduce the flow under 10 liters per
minute, the red light should start to blink,
indicating that the flow through the welder
is too low.
This helps protect the heating element from overheating.
Increase the gas flow until the green “safe”
light begins to blink again.
If everything seems to be functioning as described,
you’ll be ready to perform your first weld.
Please watch the next section of this instructional
video to see how to perform a basic nitrogen weld.
Before that, though, let’s take a look at
how to properly shut down the welder.
First, turn off the main power switch.
Close the valve on the nitrogen tank.
Leave the compressed air on and flowing for
about five minutes to cool down the heating element.
Once the welder has cooled completely, disconnect the welder from the shop air supply and unplug the welder.
If you’ve never done a nitrogen plastic weld
before, don’t be afraid to try it out.
For safety’s sake, be aware that the barrels
of both heating elements get extremely hot
and may cause burns.
Wear eye protection and temperature-resistant
gloves for your safety.
Get a bumper out of your scrap pile.
Clean both front and back with soap and water
first and let it dry.
Look on the backside of the part for the plastic
ID symbol.
These are usually two or three-letter designations
molded into the backside.
The letters are often shown between two arrows
pointing toward them.
Here, you can see the bumper says “PP-EPM”,
which means the plastic is a mixture of polypropylene and synthetic rubber.
Whenever you see the “PP” on the part, use the
R02 polypropylene welding rod.
Your welder comes with a selection of both natural and black polypropylene rod in five different profiles.
For fusion welding, always use the welding
rod that matches the substrate.
Do not use FiberFlex welding rod with the
nitrogen welder.
This is a specialty welding rod for use with
the airless plastic welder,
which you can learn to use later.
At this point, let’s concentrate on a simple
nitrogen weld on a polypropylene bumper.
To practice a full bumper repair, cut the
bumper at the bottom edge
for a couple of inches with a pair of tin snips.
Do your weld on the backside first with the
R02-04 welding rod.
Grind a shallow v-groove into the plastic
on the backside with a die grinder
about the width of the welding rod.
In order to perform a good fusion weld, you
have to expose the raw plastic,
so grinding off any paint overspray is essential.
To strengthen the repair, grind along the
edge about an inch on either side of the split
so you can weld a reinforcing tee.
Finally, apply aluminum tape to the outer
surface of the tear to align the damage.
Normally you’ll weld from the inside toward
the edge.
Starting here, hold the welding rod close
to the bumper and preheat the end of the rod
and the bumper using the hot nitrogen gas.
The bumper will start to look glossy and the
end of the rod will start to melt.
At this point, apply a slight downward pressure on the rod while continuing to focus the hot nitrogen gas
at about a 45-degree angle where
the two materials come together.
The key to making a strong nitrogen weld is
to melt both plastics at the same time.
Note that the welding rod is held perpendicular
to the surface while the welder torch is held very close
to where the rod meets the bumper.
The rod will roll down onto the bumper naturally
as it gets to the right temperature
as you hold a slight downward pressure on the rod,
fusing the two plastics together as you make your pass.
When you get to the end, cut the welding rod by heating on the top and gently pulling straight off or down.
Allow the weld to cool for a bit, then reinforce
the repair by welding a tee along the edge
using the same technique.
Weld along the edge for about one inch on
either side of the tear.
Again, cut off the welding rod when you reach
the end by heating from the top and pulling straight
or using the torch’s nozzle to cut
the ribbon.
While the weld is hot, you can use the airless
welder to smooth the weld if needed.
Don’t flatten the weld completely, just dress
the edges and smooth it.
Let the weld on the backside cool completely
before you do anything on the frontside.
Cooling can be accelerated by blowing compressed
air or applying a wet towel on the weld.
Once it’s cool, flip the bumper over and peel the aluminum tape off the frontside.
On the front, use one of the narrower welding
rods to keep the repair area as small as possible.
For this repair, let’s use the R02-07 narrow ribbon.
Grind a v-groove about the width of the welding
rod halfway through the bumper,
or until you see the welding rod from the other side
become exposed.
An optional step would be to feather the paint
back from the v-groove with some sandpaper.
Again, it’s important to weld only to raw
plastic, not paint.
As before, direct the heat from the nitrogen
welder at about a 45-degree angle
to heat both the bumper and the end of the welding rod.
After the plastics begin to melt, apply a slight downward pressure on the rod to begin your weld.
Keep the welder’s heat focused where the rod
and bumper come together,
making sure to melt both plastics at the same time as you make your pass.
If the v-groove is not filled with welding rod, make another welding pass until the v-groove is filled.
When that is done, use the airless welder
to smooth the top of the weld.
Lay the welder on the surface and pre-heat
the welding rod with the nitrogen at the same time.
Let the weld cool to room temperature before
sanding or testing its strength.
This can be accelerated by blowing it with
compressed air or applying cold water.
Test the strength of your weld before you
invest any time in the refinishing process.
As you can see, this weld will be more than
sufficient to carry this bumper to its next accident.
Once you’re satisfied with the strength, sand
the weld flush by knocking it down with a
50 grit disc in an angle grinder, then using
80 grit in a DA sander.
Normally you’ll sand the repair slightly flush
then apply a flexible filler to finish.
Polyvance’s 2000 Flex Filler is an excellent
choice, for its epoxy formulation gives it great flexibility
and it is easy to sand and finish.
Congratulations on making your first plastic weld!
Your welder comes with a QR code sheet
which gives you instant access to Polyvance’s complete training video library.
Please review some of the other welding techniques on the Polyvance website
or on the Polyvance smartphone app.
Polyvance has the industry’s most extensive
plastic repair and refinishing training resources.
If you are interested in taking one of Polyvance’s
live, hands-on I-CAR Training Alliance courses,
contact our training department by going to
our website or calling our toll-free number.
Although your Polyvance plastic welder is
the most fully featured in the industry,
Polyvance offers other accessories to help make plastic repair faster, easier, and more profitable.
Check out the “Accessories” brochure that
came with your welder
or go to the Polyvance website for the current offerings.
One of the most popular accessories is the
6146 Bumper Pliers kit,
which helps make repairs to the rectangular mounting slot tabs much easier.
The metal die inserted into the hole prevents
melted welding rod from obscuring the hole,
making the process easier and more accurate.
After the plastic cools, you simply have to
finish the top and the edge for a complete repair.
A plastic stapler from Polyvance is a helpful
complement to the plastic welder.
Hot staples are great for holding headlight
tabs in position
or for tacking long tears together that are too much for the aluminum tape to hold by itself.
Polyvance offers a wide range of cutting burrs
for both air die grinders and for electric Dremel tools.
These burrs are designed for cutting plastic
quickly so you can start welding as soon as possible.
The carbide cutting burrs make quick work of your v-grooves, and the drum sanders for your Dremel tool
are great for preparing and
finishing mounting holes and headlight tabs.
A custom-fit dust cover from Polyvance will keep your nitrogen welder protected when you’re not using it.
The optional 6074 Accessory Shelf mounts to
the top of your welder
and provides lots of extra space to hold tools and accessories.
It folds away when not in use for ease of storage.
Polyvance also makes refinishing materials
like plastic cleaners, flexible fillers, adhesion promoters,
high-build waterborne primer-surfacers, and specialty paints like our Flextex VT texture coating.
Go to the Polyvance website to learn more
about all the products
that will make your plastic repair process easier and faster.
Polyvance is the only company in the industry
focused exclusively on plastic repair and refinishing.
We have the experience, products, and training
resources
to help you make better and more profitable plastic repairs.
Thank you for allowing Polyvance to help you.
Rigorous quality checks are performed at the
Polyvance factory to ensure the welders are
fully functional and complete before they
are packaged for shipping.
However, if there is an unforeseen problem,
we’ve included a troubleshooting section in the welder’s Quick Start Guide to help you diagnose the issue.
If your welder won’t turn on, check that the
power supply you have the welder plugged into
is putting out 120 volts.
Make sure your power strip is on.
Make sure that all the cords are plugged in
all the way.
Finally, check the circuit breaker on the
back of the welder.
If your welder still won’t turn on, call Polyvance technical support.
If your nitrogen welder is not getting hot enough, check that your nitrogen flow is about 12 liters per minute
and the temperature is set between 52 and 64.
At this setting, it should get hot enough
to gloss over polypropylene in three to five seconds.
Normally if the welder is not getting hot
enough, it’s because the flow is set too high
and the temperature has not been increased accordingly.
If the nitrogen welder doesn’t get hot at
all, but all of the lights on the welder are working
and the green light is blinking, it’s
most likely you have a burned-out heating element.
Unplug the welder, then remove the heating
element from the handle.
Check the resistance of the element across
the two pins — it should be about 26 ohms.
If your multimeter shows open circuit, the
element is burned out and needs to be replaced.
If the element shows 26 ohms and still doesn’t
get hot, call Polyvance for technical support.
If your airless welder does not get hot, check
the resistance of the heating element
using an ohmmeter across the two pins on the plug.
It should read about 53 ohms.
Again, if it reads open circuit, the ceramic
heating core inside the airless element
will need to be replaced.
For any other problems, call Polyvance at
800-633-3047
between 7 am and 4 pm Central time for immediate help.
Since 1981, Polyvance has been committed to
providing the best customer service
and technical support possible with a live human being answering the phone to give you immediate assistance.

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