8003 Nitro-Fuzer Setup and Use

8003 Nitro-Fuzer Setup and Use


This is the setup and use video for the 8003
Nitro-Fuzer® Welder.
This welder has analog temperature controls,
single-gas input, includes a cart,
includes the Nitrocell nitrogen generator, and requires assembly.
Thank you for your purchase of the Polyvance
8003 Nitro-Fuzer® nitrogen plastic welder.
This is a fully capable analog nitrogen-generating
welder for the budget-minded shop.
Polyvance was the first to bring nitrogen
welding technology to the automotive
collision repair industry in 2006,
and we have continued to be the innovator in nitrogen plastic welding since that time.
Your nitrogen plastic welder will give you the ability to weld virtually any broken plastic material quickly
and with great strength.
Please watch this entire video to learn how
to set up and use your new plastic welder.
This video includes the following sections:
Unboxing and Initial Setup, Safety First,
Turning on the Welder for the First Time, Doing a Basic Weld, Helpful Accessories, and Troubleshooting.
To keep the costs down on the 8003 Nitro-Fuzer®,
we ship the welder, the cart, and the generator in three boxes.
You will have to assemble the cart yourself.
This video and the supplied assembly instructions
will walk you through the process.
The smallest box contains the welder, which
is fully assembled and ready to go.
This box also contains the airless plastic
welder and tips, power cord, accessories,
and a selection of welding rod.
The larger, flat box contains the welder cart
that we will assemble.
Inside the box, you will find the assembly
instructions and all of the welding cart components.
You will need to have some tools to assemble
the cart, like a Phillips-head screwdriver,
a seven-sixteenths inch wrench, and a speed driver.
The cart assembly will take about half an hour.
Once the cart box is unpacked, you’ll see
that you have a total of 18 different components.
You should have one bag of nuts and bolts, the power strip, air manifold, and all the sheet metal parts.
The one tricky part of putting the cart together
is making sure the legs are put on the proper side.
The legs are mirror images of each other.
You can see that these two holes are flipped,
so you want to make sure the holes point toward the front of the cart when you assemble it.
After assembling the cart, it’s time to install
the welder onto it.
Put the welder up on the top shelf. Put one
sheet metal screw through the shelf
and line it up on the bottom of the welder, then screw
it in by hand loosely until you have everything lined up.
Put the second screw in, and make sure it
also lines up with the hole in the bottom of the welder.
Then use the speed driver to finish tightening
up the screws.
Remove the nitrogen generator from the largest
box and install it onto the cart by dropping it into place.
Make sure the air and nitrogen fittings are
facing toward the welder.
Use the supplied strap to hold the generator
in place on the cart.
Now that the welder and generator are secure,
it’s time to hook up the plumbing to the welder.
First, connect a flexible green tube from
the air manifold at the front of the cart
to the inlet port on the nitrogen generator.
The air goes into the outboard port marked “Air In”.
Then from the “Nitrogen Out” port on the generator,
run the tube through the welder shelf
and into the fitting on the back of the welder.
To establish the electrical connection between
the welder and the power strip,
you’ll just insert the end of the power cord into the
back of the welder
and plug the other end into the power strip.
If there is any masking tape on the nitrogen
welder torch, remove it.
Carefully attach the nitrogen welder hose
to the welder by lining up the notches in each part.
Do not push the connector in — the pins are
easily damaged.
Use the threaded collar to pull the connector in.
Next, we will set up the airless plastic welder.
The airless plastic welder is used for smoothing
your nitrogen plastic welds,
and essential for repairing urethane plastic.
The nitrogen welder cannot be used to repair urethane.
The airless plastic welder comes with two
welding tips: the flat, teardrop shaped tip
used for smoothing welds, and the tube welding
tip with the hole that you feed the rod through.
You will use the tube tip and our polyurethane
welding rod to repair urethane bumpers.
Since we will be using the flat tip more often,
we will screw it into the airless welder.
Plug the airless welder into the front of the welder.
Now we need to get set up for welding.
Install your shop’s quick disconnect plug
into the air manifold on the front.
The hole on the front is intended for a whip
hose to supply air to your plastic grinding tools.
Polyvance sells a ten-foot whip hose with
an in-line blower as an accessory.
Put the included tools, accessories, and welding
rods in the tool bins at the top of the cart.
Hook up your shop air line to the fitting.
Make sure to use clean, dry, oil-free air,
especially with the nitrogen membrane.
If water or oil gets inside the system, it
will ruin the membrane and other components,
which will not be covered by the Polyvance warranty.
The Nitrocell nitrogen generator includes
an air-oil separator to help ensure
that the membrane receives clean, dry air.
If you see any liquid in the bowl, drain it
from the bottom.
Keep an eye on the sight glass at the top
of the filter; when it turns from green to
red, you will need to replace the internal filter.
If you have any doubts about the quality of
your compressed air,
use a filter-dryer at the wall where you plug in your welder.
Make sure your shop air is at least 100 psi.
The purity of the nitrogen coming from the generator increases as the supply air pressure increases,
and 100 psi is the minimum required
to generate 97% pure nitrogen.
With the air line and nitrogen hooked up,
you are now ready to use the welder.
Please watch the rest of this video to learn
how to use your welder for the first time.
Before you turn on your welder for the first time, please keep in mind the following safety precautions.
First, use safety glasses whenever grinding
or sanding plastic.
Second, we’d recommend that you use mechanic’s gloves
to protect yourself against accidentally touching hot components.
Finally, and most importantly, do NOT touch
the metal barrels on either the nitrogen welder
or the airless welder.
They get VERY hot and can cause severe burns
on contact.
Be conscious of this hazard as you weld
and try to prevent distractions from taking your mind off this point.
Your Polyvance welder has automatic low-flow
heating element protection, but despite that,
always get the nitrogen flowing through the
torch before you turn on the heat.
First, attach your shop’s compressed air line
to the air manifold at the front of the welder.
Make sure your air is clean, dry, and free
of oil.
Oil and water in your compressed air will damage the welder’s internal components.
If in doubt, install a filter-dryer at the
wall where you plug in your welder.
When you have the air hooked up to your welder
of at least 100 psi,
you will automatically be flowing nitrogen out of the welder tip.
Turn the flow valve until the ball in theanalog flow gauge floats at about 12 liters per minute.
This is a good flow rate for your average
bumper cover.
If you are welding a very thin area, you can
reduce the flow to about 10 liters per minute
to prevent distortion of the plastic.
If you are welding something thicker, like
a heavy truck side panel,
increase the flow to about 15 liters per minute to weld faster.
With Polyvance’s nitrogen plastic welders,
you get full control of the welding process.
Plug in the power strip, and make sure it
is on by looking for the lighted red switch.
Turn the power on to the welder with the on-off
switch on the back of the welder.
You will notice the green “pressure safe” light glowing if there is sufficient airflow through the welder.
Adjust the temperature of the nitrogen side
to match the plastic you’re working with
and the nitrogen flow you plan to use.
For polypropylene welding with the standard
flow setting of twelve liters per minute,
the temperature should be set to 7.
You will be able to feel the air start to
get hotter immediately.
Allow about five minutes for the element to
warm up completely before use.
Turn on the airless plastic welder to help
smooth out your plastic welds.
For polypropylene, set the temperature at
the “PP” setting on the dial.
It will take about five minutes for the airless
welder to get up to the proper temperature.
While your welder is warming up, select the welding rod that matches the plastic you will be welding.
If everything seems to be functioning as described,
you’ll be ready to perform your first weld.
Please watch the next section of this instructional
video to see how to perform a basic nitrogen weld.
Before that, though, let’s take a look at
how to properly shut down the welder.
Simply turn off the main power switch on the
back of the welder.
Let the air continue to run for about five
minutes to cool down the heating element.
This will help to prolong the life of your
heating element.
Once the welder has cooled completely, disconnect the welder from the shop air supply and unplug the welder.
If you’ve never done a nitrogen plastic weld
before, don’t be afraid to try it out.
For safety’s sake, be aware that the barrels
of both heating elements get extremely hot
and may cause burns.
Wear eye protection and temperature-resistant
gloves for your safety.
Get a bumper out of your scrap pile.
Clean both front and back with soap and water
first and let it dry.
Look on the backside of the part for the plastic
ID symbol.
These are usually two or three-letter designations
molded into the backside.
The letters are often shown between two arrows
pointing toward them.
Here, you can see the bumper says “PP-EPM”,
which means the plastic is a mixture of polypropylene and synthetic rubber.
Whenever you see the “PP” on the part, use
the R02 polypropylene welding rod.
Your welder comes with a selection of natural
polypropylene rod in five different profiles.
For fusion welding, always use the welding
rod that matches the substrate.
Do not use FiberFlex welding rod with the
nitrogen welder.
This is a specialty welding rod for use with
the airless plastic welder,
which you can learn to use later.
At this point, let’s concentrate on a simple
nitrogen weld on a polypropylene bumper.
To practice a full bumper repair, cut the
bumper at the bottom edge
for a couple of inches with a pair of tin snips.
Do your weld on the backside first with the
R02-04 welding rod.
Grind a shallow v-groove into the plastic on the backside with a die grinder about the width of the welding rod.
In order to perform a good fusion weld, you
have to expose the raw plastic,
so grinding off any paint overspray is essential.
To strengthen the repair, grind along the
edge for about an inch on either side of the split
so you can weld a reinforcing tee.
Finally, apply aluminum tape to the outer
surface of the tear to align the damage.
Normally you’ll weld from the inside toward
the edge.
Starting here, hold the welding rod close
to the bumper and preheat the end of the rod
and the bumper using the hot nitrogen gas.
The bumper will start to look glossy and the
end of the rod will start to melt.
At this point, apply a slight downward pressure on the rod while continuing to focus the hot nitrogen gas
at about a 45-degree angle where
the two materials come together.
The key to making a strong nitrogen weld is
to melt both plastics at the same time.
Note that the welding rod is held perpendicular
to the surface
while the welder torch is held very close to where the rod meets the bumper.
The rod will roll down onto the bumper naturally
as it gets to the right temperature
as you hold a slight downward pressure on the rod,
fusing the two plastics together as you make your pass.
When you get to the end, cut the welding rod by heating on the top and gently pulling straight off or down.
Allow the weld to cool for a bit, then reinforce
the repair
by welding a tee along the edge using the same technique.
Weld along the edge for about one inch on
either side of the tear.
Again, cut off the welding rod when you reach
the end by heating the top and pulling straight
or using the torch’s nozzle to cut the ribbon.
While the weld is hot, you can use the airless
welder to smooth the weld if needed.
Don’t flatten the weld completely, just dress the
edges and smooth it.
Let the weld on the backside cool completely
before you do anything on the frontside.
Cooling can be accelerated by blowing compressed
air or applying a wet towel on the weld.
Once it’s cool, flip the bumper over and peel
the aluminum tape off the frontside.
On the front, use one of the narrower welding
rods to keep the repair area as small as possible.
For this repair, let’s use the R02-07 narrow ribbon.
Grind a v-groove about the width of the welding
rod halfway through the bumper,
or until you see the welding rod from the other side become exposed.
An optional step would be to feather the paint
back from the v-groove with some sandpaper.
Again, it’s important to weld only to raw
plastic, not paint.
As before, direct the heat from the nitrogen
welder at about a 45-degree angle to heat
both the bumper and the end of the welding rod.
After the plastics begin to melt, apply a slight downward pressure on the rod to begin your weld.
Keep the welder’s heat focused where the rod
and bumper come together,
making sure to melt both plastics at the same time as you make your pass.
If the v-groove is not filled with welding rod, make another welding pass until the v-groove is filled.
When that is done, use the airless welder
to smooth the top of the weld.
Lay the welder on the surface and pre-heat
the welding rod with the nitrogen at the same time.
Let the weld cool to room temperature before
sanding or testing its strength.
This can be accelerated by blowing it with
compressed air or applying cold water.
Test the strength of your weld before you
invest any time in the refinishing process.
As you can see, this weld will be more than
sufficient to carry this bumper to its next accident.
Once you’re satisfied with the strength, sand
the weld flush by knocking it down with a 50 grit disc
in an angle grinder, then using
80 grit in a DA sander.
Normally you’ll sand the repair slightly flush
then apply a flexible filler to finish.
Polyvance’s 2000 Flex Filler is an excellent
choice, for its epoxy formulation gives it great flexibility
and it is easy to sand and finish.
Congratulations on making your first plastic weld!
Your welder comes with a QR code sheet which gives you
instant access to Polyvance’s complete training video library.
Please review some of the other welding techniques on the Polyvance website
or on the Polyvance smartphone app.
Polyvance has the industry’s most extensive
plastic repair and refinishing training resources.
If you are interested in taking one of Polyvance’s
live, hands-on I-CAR Training Alliance courses,
contact our training department by going to
our website or calling our toll-free number.
Although your Polyvance plastic welder is
the most fully featured in the industry,
Polyvance offers other accessories to help make plastic
repair faster, easier, and more profitable.
Check out the “Accessories” brochure that
came with your welder
or go to the Polyvance website for the current offerings.
One of the most popular accessories is the
6146 Bumper Pliers kit,
which helps make repairs to the rectangular mounting slot tabs much easier.
The metal die inserted into the hole prevents
melted welding rod from obscuring the hole,
making the process easier and more accurate.
After the plastic cools, you’ll simply have
to finish the top and the edge for a complete repair.
A plastic stapler from Polyvance is a helpful
complement to the plastic welder.
Hot staples are great for holding headlight
tabs in position
or for tacking long tears together that are too much for the aluminum tape to hold by itself.
Polyvance offers a wide range of cutting burrs
for both air die grinders and for electric Dremel tools.
These burrs are designed for cutting plastic
quickly so you can start welding as soon as possible.
The carbide cutting burrs make quick work of your v-grooves, and the drum sanders for your Dremel tool
are great for preparing and
finishing mounting holes and headlight tabs.
A custom-fit dust cover from Polyvance will keep your nitrogen welder protected when you’re not using it.
The optional 6074 Accessory Shelf mounts to
the top of your welder
and provides lots of extra space to hold tools and accessories.
It folds away when not in use for ease of storage.
Polyvance also makes refinishing materials
like plastic cleaners, flexible fillers, adhesion promoters,
high-build waterborne primer-surfacers,
and specialty paints like our Flextex VT texture coating.
Go to the Polyvance website to learn more about all the products that will make your plastic repair process
easier and faster.
Polyvance is the only company in the industry
focused exclusively on plastic repair and refinishing.
We have the experience, products, and training resources
to help you make better and more profitable plastic repairs.
Thank you for allowing Polyvance to help you.
Rigorous quality checks are performed at the
Polyvance factory to ensure the welders are
fully functional and complete before they
are packaged for shipping.
However, if there is an unforeseen problem,
we’ve included a troubleshooting section in the welder’s
Quick Start Guide to help you
diagnose the issue.
If your welder won’t turn on, check that the
power supply you have the welder plugged into
is putting out 120 volts.
Make sure your power strip is on.
Make sure that all the cords are plugged in
all the way.
Finally, check the fuse on the back of the welder.
Pop it out of the fuse holder and check the
continuity across the fuse with an ohmmeter.
If the fuse is blown, you will also need to
identify the root cause.
Call Polyvance technical support for assistance.
If your nitrogen welder is not getting hot
enough,
check that your nitrogen flow is about 12 liters per minute and that the temperature is set at about 7 or 8.
At this setting, it should get hot enough to gloss over polypropylene in about three to five seconds.
Normally if the welder is not getting hot
enough, it’s because the flow is set too high
and the temperature hasn’t been increased
accordingly.
If the nitrogen welder doesn’t get hot at
all, and the green light is glowing,
it’s most likely you have a burned-out heating element.
Unplug the welder, then remove the heating
element from the handle.
Check the resistance of the element across
the two pins — it should be about 26 ohms.
If your multimeter shows open circuit, the
element is burned out and needs to be replaced.
If the element shows 26 ohms and still doesn’t
get hot, call Polyvance for technical support.
If your airless welder does not get hot,
check the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter across the two pins on the plug.
It should read about 53 ohms.
Again, if it reads open circuit, the ceramic heating core inside the airless element will need to be replaced.
For any other problems, call Polyvance at
800-633-3047
between 7 am and 4 pm Central time for immediate help.
Since 1981, Polyvance has been committed to
providing the best customer service
and technical support possible with a live human being answering the phone to give you immediate assistance.

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