Your stock rubber hoses over a period of time tend to flex and expand under the pressure created every time you apply your brakes. Over time, this will affect your stopping power and overall brake performance. Braided brake lines were designed to basically eliminate this swelling issue and give you a much longer lasting brake line and a more consistent feel every time you use your brakes. Each braided brake line consists of an inner hydraulic hose that’s wrapped in heavy duty stainless steel braiding. The braiding is then covered with a protective, colored rubber coating to keep it away from the elements. Each Tusk braided brake line is designed with machine-specific banjo hose ends for easy installation and includes new copper crush washers and new banjo bolts for each fitting. To install a braided brake line, it’s fairly simple – with only a few standard tools needed for the install. You’ll also want to have your service manual handy for the necessary torque specifications.
We’ll be demonstrating the proper way to bleed your brakes using the Mityvac brake bleeder. Rocky Mountain’s got a few other bleeders to choose from. We’re also going to need some fresh brake fluid to fill the new system. Rocky Mountain carries a wide variety of brake fluids to suit your needs. We’re going to start by removing any clamps or guides holding the old brake line. We’ve got this top guide and then the clamp on the fork guard. We’ve also got a clamp down on the caliper. Once those are all out of the way, we’re going to loosen and remove the bottom banjo bolt and then let the fluid drain into a bucket or other catch container. After you do that, we can move up to the top and pull that top banjo bolt. It’s important to be careful when working with brake fluid because it can ruin painted and chrome finishes if it gets on it. Once you’ve got that top bolt removed and all the fluid drained, go ahead and pull the old brake line from the bike.
Now, we can begin installation of the new braided brake line. It’s critical that you install a new crush washer onto each side of the banjo fitting to seal it up. All these parts will be supplied with your new brake line. We’ll start by connecting the top fitting to the master cylinder. With a crush washer on the banjo bolt, slide it through the fitting, then through another crush washer and thread it into the master cylinder. We’re just going to leave it loose for now. Make sure your new brake line follows the stock routing, unless you’re changing to the CR style brake line or have already done so. Most bikes nowadays already come stocked with the line ran around the inside of the fork. With the new banjo bolt, go through a copper washer, then slide it through the fitting, through another copper washer, thread it into the caliper. Again, we’re just going to leave this one loose for now. Now at this point, you want to work your way up, reinstalling each brake line clamp and guide that we previously removed. Go ahead and tighten each one of them down all the way. When you’ve done that, refer to your service manual for the banjo bolt torque specs.
Our Yamaha manual calls for 22 foot pounds, so we’ll go ahead and torque both these bolts down. Next step is to fill the system with new brake fluid and then bleed it to remove any air. To do that, we’ll start by removing the reservoir cap and the rubber gasket now, using a new bottle of brake fluid, fill up the reservoir. Take the Mityvac brake bleeder and connect the hose to the bleeder valve on your caliper. Now pump the vacuum a few times and crack open the nipple. You’ll see it start to suck out the air in the system. Remember to keep an eye on your fluid level in the reservoir. Make sure it’s always full so you don’t suck air back into the system. Continue to vacuum the air out of the brake line until you start to see clear, fresh brake fluid exiting the system. Now, you can go ahead and close the bleeder valve, pump the lever a couple times, and it should start to tighten right up. If you don’t have one of the vacuum-type brake bleeders and choose not to purchase one, you can always bleed the system the conventional way by pumping the lever several times and then holding it while your buddy cracks open the nipple to let the air out of the system